Please help! Electrical problem has me stumped!

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Ok, I actually posted a thread about this about 3 weeks ago or so, but did not get much response, and it's got me stumped, and really starting to piss me off. :mad: It is very intermittent, which makes even harder to diagnose, on top of the fact that I am not very good with electrical diagnostics anyway. But what i've got going on is this.

The brake indicator, the battery, and the AT oil temp light will all come on at the same time, and the voltage drops. Occasionally it will do it right at start up, but usually after I have already started driving, sometimes just for a few seconds, though the longer this issue persists, it seems to do it for longer periods of time, up to about 15 minutes I think has been the longest, and then, just on it's own, the idiot lights will go out and the voltage comes back up. It did finally do it for a long enough period of time last weekend to put a meter on the battery, and voltage truly was down (wanted to eliminate a potential gauge or cluster problem), showing 11.9 at idle. I did not check it at the alternator then, and have been driving around the past few days with my meter with in hopes to get a chance to check that, but it has been too inconsistent. It also seems to mostly do it at night, with the headlights on (possibly pure coincidence), but has done it a time or do during the day. I have checked all the normal stuff, cleaned and tightened battery connections, alternator and starter connections, and so on. And also found one of fender marker light sockets and fallen out and was all decayed with the copper prongs exposed, laying on the wheel well, so I thought maybe it was shorting against the body, so I taped it off, but no luck. :crybaby:

Sorry for the long thread, but please help. This is going to drive me batty.

P.S. I am starting to think my alternator is going tits up, though it was replaced about a year and half ago, but what would the alt have to do with the rest of the idiot lights? :cheers:
 
If the volts are low, it might cause the idiot lights to fire up.

From your description, it sounds like the voltage regulator is going.

I understand your alt is only 1.5 yrs old. Where did you get it? I bought a replacement POS alt from shucks with a lifetime warrenty - have now replaced it three times. Free each time, but what a pain. Live and learn. Point being - a good quality alt probably won't fail quickly (though it could). A cheap alt though is likely to fail soon.

HTH
 
sounds to me that you have a bad alternator. as far as the idiot lights coming on, i've seen this with other cars when the alternator stops charging and the battery starts discharging. your battery itself could be bad and be unwilling to take a charge.

i'd do two things: have the battery and charging system tested.

a year and a half is long enough for a crappy reman alternator to go bad. certain brands of battery have a rep. for being basically pieces of cr*p too.

my personal preferences: Interstate batteries, (you won't find them at autozone, kragen, etc.) and Denso alternators.
 
If the volts are low, it might cause the idiot lights to fire up.

From your description, it sounds like the voltage regulator is going.

I understand your alt is only 1.5 yrs old. Where did you get it? I bought a replacement POS alt from shucks with a lifetime warrenty - have now replaced it three times. Free each time, but what a pain. Live and learn. Point being - a good quality alt probably won't fail quickly (though it could). A cheap alt though is likely to fail soon.

HTH

Funny you say that. It is a CSK alternator. Don't know that I will replace it with one of there's again. If thats the case, I will skip the whole lifetime warranty s*** and just get a good one. And that's what I was afraid of.
 
sounds to me that you have a bad alternator. as far as the idiot lights coming on, i've seen this with other cars when the alternator stops charging and the battery starts discharging. your battery itself could be bad and be unwilling to take a charge.

i'd do two things: have the battery and charging system tested.

a year and a half is long enough for a crappy reman alternator to go bad. certain brands of battery have a rep. for being basically pieces of cr*p too.

my personal preferences: Interstate batteries, (you won't find them at autozone, kragen, etc.) and Denso alternators.

I have a good battery, not a Autozone of Kragen pos. It's a Trojan Marine battery I got from work. It is as well only a year or so old, though have not had it tested with a "real" tester, just the analog tester I have. I will do that before swapping the alterlnator, again.
 
Any other thoughts before I drop 3 or 4 hundred bucks on a new alternator?
 
Definitely the alternator, you need to replace it immediately as things go downhill electrically fast on 62's in this situation. You might look into a local electrical shop, we had one here that would rebuild em for 45 bucks, closed now.
 
Check your grounds, I had a simmular situation and replaced my voltage reg and that did not help. I almost bought a new alt. it turned out it was a ground wire on the cig lighter that was causing the problems hope this helps--iichart--
 
X2 on checking all of your grounds. i should have mentioned this is my first post.
 
Like someone else already said- check out the voltage regulator- it may be the cause a loose or corroded connection might explain why it's intermittent. Also have you looked behind the dash? I'd be interested in knowing what common wires those specific lights share- maybe it's grounding out somewhere behind the dash?

John
 
99% sure your alt is going out. those are all the lights that light up when a 62 or 80 alt is dying
 
I have replaced my lifetime alt 4 times in three years. Lifetime of replacements!!. You should be able to test the alt. and the battery. I dont remember if you said you have a lifetime warr. on yours but if you do I would put on another one and if it cures it then replace with a expensive one. I have gotten good at replacing the alt and you can get it off in 10 min or less with the tools out. Would hate to see you buy something you dont need.
 
I have checked and/or cleaned and tightened all the norm connections. Battery cables, alternator, and starter. Also have checked a bunch of the different plugs and connections in the engine bay at random. I have not been behind the dash yet. Also, on the Pos side of the battery, it is using a marine style terminal with a threaded stud, and the cables have a smaller ring terminal on them, and are attached to the threaded stud with a nut. Is this stock or is this somebodies half ass fix? And thanks for all the help here guys. Y'all are confiming my thoughts.
 
Swapped it out.

Well I got the alternator swapped out friday night after work. So far so good, but only time will tell if the problem is truly fixed, due to the intermittency of the issue. But *******, they must be out of cores to rebuild! Went to pick up the new one, and it was a different alternator. One of the basket style ones, with an internal fan, like the Camry's and Supra's (and maybe newer cruisers and trucks?) run. At first both I and the gal (yes gal) at the parts counter thought there was an error, except the pulley and part number was right. We started cross referencing, and then in the bottom of the box, there was a note card that explained the difference in appearance, and that it was the correct replacement....supposedly. Upon installing it, she didn't quite fit. Bolt pattern was good, but there was a flange on the bottom of the housing that the original didn't have that would hit the bracket and not allow me to get enough adjustment to get the belt tight. Nothing a die grinder and a 36 grit disc couldn't fix. So a little grinding (I taped off all the vents first) and some test fitting later, and it's in. Aside from the odd whistle it is now making, that with the stethascope is coming from the alternator, all is working proper. We shall see if it keeps it up. And the whistle seems to be going away. Thanks again for all your help! :bounce:
 
Also, on the Pos side of the battery, it is using a marine style terminal with a threaded stud, and the cables have a smaller ring terminal on them, and are attached to the threaded stud with a nut. Is this stock or is this somebodies half ass fix? .

Its a no good.

It is a frequent source of problems.
 
If you haven't replaced it you might want to consider getting a new fuseable link as preventative maintenance.

Glad it's working.
 
I wondered about this battery terminal. I am running a marine battery, so I could just remove it and attach the cables directly to the threaded stud on my battery, but most likely will just put new ends on.

I have not replaced the fusible link yet, and will look into doing so. Happen to have a PN or anything? Thanks.
 
Thanks Ming! :beer:
 

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