PLEASE HELP! 2000 LC dies while driving/no check engine **UPDATED 8/17/21** (1 Viewer)

[Wendy2000LC]

Here is a link to a thread in the 60 Series forum that has recommended mechanics and shops. It is long, but search will help weed through the pages.

Recommend a Cruiser Mechanic in your area

Lots of travelling cruiserheads and many new owners would like to locate a reliable mechanic in their area, or know who to go to if they have a problem on the road. It has been suggested that we try to establish a sticky thread for people to make personal recommendations for a mechanic they...

forum.ih8mud.com

THANK YOU!!!! I so pray Someone can fix my rig!

 

[Wendy2000LC]

First.... anyone who can't fix a vehicle without having codes to go by is not a 'mechanic', they are a Parts Replacer.

Codes by themselves simply point you in a 'direction' and are NOT the end all for repairs.

No codes, intermittent dying of the engine... is not an easy one to diagnose, but there are some 'common' reasons for it.

Again, I would suggest you have the fuel system looked at (fuel pump) and the wiring and connections in that circuit.

IF that fails to correct your problem, then start looking at fuse junction boxes.

Thank you again for poking your head in and trying to help me. You have no idea how much it means to me and how much I appreciate it! I will certainly look into this! Many blessings!

 

[Eicca]

From my recollection of similar threads, engine dying without codes or electrical loss and restarting normally has been caused by:
-Failing fuel pump
-Bad connection to MAF sensor (either at the sensor itself or the ECU plug)
-Bad connection to cam/crank position sensors (check for wires getting chafed by the serpentine belt)
-Failing throttle body (though this should throw codes)

 

[Wendy2000LC]

From my recollection of similar threads, engine dying without codes or electrical loss and restarting normally has been caused by:
-Failing fuel pump
-Bad connection to MAF sensor (either at the sensor itself or the ECU plug)
-Bad connection to cam/crank position sensors (check for wires getting chafed by the serpentine belt)
-Failing throttle body (though this should throw codes)

Thank you sooooo much for this point of reference! I appreciate the help! Blessings and have a fabulous day!

 

[Wendy2000LC]

Ok…I’m here with an update. I spoke to Gary Kardum-owner @ Mudrak in Northern California, who by the way is a very nice guy and has tons of expert knowledge on LC. He thought it may be fuel filter from what I described. He encouraged me to change it and see if that works.

like I said, no one would take my truck in to fix because no code. Well I finally got Crown Toyota in Ontario, Calif to take a look at it. They drove it and it failed on them while driving also and no code. What they told me was that after driving it again with another fail they were able to get some data from the computer? I have no idea. I’m not mechanically inclined AT ALL. They told me it was the THROTTLE BODY.

I had told them what Gary told me and they disagreed it was the fuel filter. What to do? I decided to go with what their opinion was AND change the fuel filter. Wanted to cover my bases. I spent half a fortune but well worth it if it solves my problem.

I forgot to mention prior to this my truck failed on the freeway and that’s when I decided it’s either going to get fixed or I have to lay it to rest because it’s a hazard to drive.

Once I got the truck back I was afraid to put it on the freeway. So I took a 100 mile trip down Route 66. No fail but the truck has driven more miles than that before failing. I do say that the truck felt more solid and I feel it had more power for lack of a better description.

My plan is to take a few more Route 66 trips before I trust it on the freeway.

The only thing I notice is that when I’m idling at a stop for a while the truck may shake for a few seconds. I don’t know if that’s normal. If not does anyone have an idea what that could be? And no, it’s not a coil pack. I’ve had a few of those fail and kow what that feels like.

I honestly hope these two parts have solved the stalling problem. I cannot keep throwing thousands at it without it being reliable. And God only knows at this point on my life I cannot afford another Land Cruiser. I’ve already decided if this one cannot be fixed within financial reason I’m going to buy a new 4 Runner. *gulp*

Thanks a boatload to everyone here for all your continued help and advice. Don’t know what I’d do without you!

 

[leveeguy]

Depending on how much time you've driven since repair the ECU could still be adjusting itself to new parameters or the fuel pump could be the reason if the fuel filter was clogged, the fuel pump could be weak from being overworked by the dirty fuel filter.

If your oxygen sensors have never been changed, replacing those wont hurt.

A fuel filter replacement should not been all that expensive $150-200 bucks at most

*Edit I see you also replaced the throttle body along with fuel filter

 

[Wendy2000LC]

Depending on how much time you've driven since repair the ECU could still be adjusting itself to new parameters or the fuel pump could be the reason if the fuel filter was clogged, the fuel pump could be weak from being overworked by the dirty fuel filter.

If your oxygen sensors have never been changed, replacing those wont hurt.

A fuel filter replacement should not been all that expensive $150-200 bucks at most

*Edit I see you also replaced the throttle body along with fuel filter

The fuel filter replacement was in that range. It was the throttle body and diagnostic time that really ran my bill up.

Thanks for your suggestions. I will certainly look into those parts. I wish I would have just done the fuel pump at same time but I think I was in too much sticker shock ATM.

 

[gregnash]

The fuel filter replacement was in that range. It was the throttle body and diagnostic time that really ran my bill up.

Thanks for your suggestions. I will certainly look into those parts. I wish I would have just done the fuel pump at same time but I think I was in too much sticker shock ATM.

So someone else to try in your area is Mark from Mark's Offroad. He is an old 40series and 60series mechanic but it may be worth while to see if nothing else if he can point you in the direction of a trust worthy mechanic that knows LCs. The dealership is going to rip you off regardless even if you go in with good information for them.

Replacing the fuel pump is a pretty in-depth job (back seats have to come completely out, trim removal to get carpet up. I did mine a couple weeks ago and it took a few hours just me putzing around doing it (new Denso fuel pump kit was all of $130 shipped), so the dealership would likely charge you an arm and leg.

 

[sigjar]

Ok…I’m here with an update. I spoke to Gary Kardum-owner @ Mudrak in Northern California, who by the way is a very nice guy and has tons of expert knowledge on LC. He thought it may be fuel filter from what I described. He encouraged me to change it and see if that works.

like I said, no one would take my truck in to fix because no code. Well I finally got Crown Toyota in Ontario, Calif to take a look at it. They drove it and it failed on them while driving also and no code. What they told me was that after driving it again with another fail they were able to get some data from the computer? I have no idea. I’m not mechanically inclined AT ALL. They told me it was the THROTTLE BODY.

I had told them what Gary told me and they disagreed it was the fuel filter. What to do? I decided to go with what their opinion was AND change the fuel filter. Wanted to cover my bases. I spent half a fortune but well worth it if it solves my problem.

I forgot to mention prior to this my truck failed on the freeway and that’s when I decided it’s either going to get fixed or I have to lay it to rest because it’s a hazard to drive.

Once I got the truck back I was afraid to put it on the freeway. So I took a 100 mile trip down Route 66. No fail but the truck has driven more miles than that before failing. I do say that the truck felt more solid and I feel it had more power for lack of a better description.

My plan is to take a few more Route 66 trips before I trust it on the freeway.

The only thing I notice is that when I’m idling at a stop for a while the truck may shake for a few seconds. I don’t know if that’s normal. If not does anyone have an idea what that could be? And no, it’s not a coil pack. I’ve had a few of those fail and kow what that feels like.

I honestly hope these two parts have solved the stalling problem. I cannot keep throwing thousands at it without it being reliable. And God only knows at this point on my life I cannot afford another Land Cruiser. I’ve already decided if this one cannot be fixed within financial reason I’m going to buy a new 4 Runner. *gulp*

Thanks a boatload to everyone here for all your continued help and advice. Don’t know what I’d do without you!

I had the same issue with the engine stalling when I slowed down or “jumping” when keeping the gas pedal stable. Changed the throttle body and never had the issue again. Also changed the fuel filter but 95% sure it was the throttle. Mine died at idle at times and at close to stops when it was cold.

 

[Wendy2000LC]

So someone else to try in your area is Mark from Mark's Offroad. He is an old 40series and 60series mechanic but it may be worth while to see if nothing else if he can point you in the direction of a trust worthy mechanic that knows LCs. The dealership is going to rip you off regardless even if you go in with good information for them.

Replacing the fuel pump is a pretty in-depth job (back seats have to come completely out, trim removal to get carpet up. I did mine a couple weeks ago and it took a few hours just me putzing around doing it (new Denso fuel pump kit was all of $130 shipped), so the dealership would likely charge you an arm and leg.

Thanks Greg! This is the first time I’ve been to the dealer. I felt so helpless as no one else would try to fix. Trust me….ripped off is an understatement. If Gary could have helped me I would have sent it to him up north but the wait was about 6 months. He’s just that good!
Thanks for the referral. I will def look into Mark’s Offroad. Just wanna get this rig settled and back to her ol’ self! Nothing would make me happier!

 

[Wendy2000LC]

I had the same issue with the engine stalling when I slowed down or “jumping” when keeping the gas pedal stable. Changed the throttle body and never had the issue again. Also changed the fuel filter but 95% sure it was the throttle. Mine died at idle at times and at close to stops when it was cold.

So glad you got yours fixed and haven’t had a problem since. I’m truly hoping I will not either. In any event your post surely gives me hope…thanks a bundle for chiming in! I just appreciate soooo much the support I get here!

 

[flintknapper]

So glad you got yours fixed and haven’t had a problem since. I’m truly hoping I will not either. In any event your post surely gives me hope…thanks a bundle for chiming in! I just appreciate soooo much the support I get here!

You've addressed the two most likely culprits....so we are hoping that it resolves your problem too.

Unless you've heard the fuel pump 'whining' or had other reasons to believe it is on its way out....then continue to drive it as you have been...just 'to prove the work'. Then go back to your freeway driving.

The only thing that concerns me....is that 'engine dying/stalling' issues that do not generate a trouble code are often fuel pump related. There are of course other reasons this could happen.

Hopefully the dealership was thorough in their diagnostics and made the throttle body decision based on that. I know it is expensive and we can appreciate you wanting to keep the vehicle, so fingers crossed....it is OK now.

 

[AlpineAccess]

So, throttle body has fixed this issue? Is it the throttle body or some kind of sensor in the throttle body assembly?

I'm still trying to figure out why the throttle body itself would cause this issue, It's just a butterfly valve with a series of intake passage ways and some vacuum line attachments. The throttle position sensor would make sense, or a very dirty throttle body would make sense.

 

[Wendy2000LC]

You've addressed the two most likely culprits....so we are hoping that it resolves your problem too.

Unless you've heard the fuel pump 'whining' or had other reasons to believe it is on its way out....then continue to drive it as you have been...just 'to prove the work'. Then go back to your freeway driving.

The only thing that concerns me....is that 'engine dying/stalling' issues that do not generate a trouble code are often fuel pump related. There are of course other reasons this could happen.

Hopefully the dealership was thorough in their diagnostics and made the throttle body decision based on that. I know it is expensive and we can appreciate you wanting to keep the vehicle, so fingers crossed....it is OK now.

I haven’t heard any whining and I really don’t have any reason to believe it’s on it’s way out unless the shaking slightly at idle has anything to do with that.
I sure do understand the “prove the work” issue which is why I kind of wished I only did the throttle body and/or the fuel pump first to see what the culprit really was/is.

Alas…truth! I will be ecstatic if I can now chalk all this up to the most challenging experience I’ve ever had with my cruiser to date.

And I’d like to add if the dealer really did diagnose correctly I may have a different view of them now. I mean come on now….they were the only ones willing to even give it a shot. Everyone else turned me down flat….”Sorry…no code, can’t help you”. They’re order takers now.
Thanks for always trying to help me. You’re always willing and much appreciated!

 

[joshAUST]

My car usually dies if I disconnect the MAF sensor.
Perhaps check the connection to it, and then try cleaning it with MAF cleaner.

 

[Wendy2000LC]

So, throttle body has fixed this issue? Is it the throttle body or some kind of sensor in the throttle body assembly?

I'm still trying to figure out why the throttle body itself would cause this issue, It's just a butterfly valve with a series of intake passage ways and some vacuum line attachments. The throttle position sensor would make sense, or a very dirty throttle body would make sense.

Hi there! I asked the dealer the same question. Remember I don’t know anything mechanically, so if I write something that doesn’t make sense my apologies in advance. I just go by what I’m told and what I can research to the best of my ability.

When they told me it was the throttle body I looked that up on Rock Auto and saw how there was different parts of the throttle body or the entire assembly? (I think?) Dealer said I needed the entire thing.

To answer your question, I’ve driven it approx 100 miles so far and no problem but remember the Fuel Filter was also changed at same time.

I will continue to drive the cruiser to see if it will not fail again.

In the past I had driven it a few hundred miles between failings.

But it seemed lately it was starting to fail more often.

What’s the magic number of miles driven now that I will comfortable that it’s truly fixed? Hmmm…from my past experience I’d say about 350.

I will definitely keep everyone updated as I put more miles on the rig!

I can only hope this will help others in this situation. It’s def been a journey!

 

[Wendy2000LC]

My car usually dies if I disconnect the MAF sensor.
Perhaps check the connection to it, and then try cleaning it with MAF cleaner.

Thanks! Will def check it out! Much appreciated!

 

[Wendy2000LC]

I’m back with another update and it’s not good *sigh*

Took the Cruiser back out today and it failed 4 times in the scope of approx 15 miles. The only reason I kept driving it was to get it back to John Elway’s Crown Toyota in Ontario, Calif. where they diagnosed it and told me it was fixed. Ugh. To say I’m completely frustrated at this point is an understatement. So I guess now I know it’s NOT the throttle body and it’s not the fuel filter.

I was so upset at the dealer because I spent almost $1700. Yes. You read that correctly. Only to have them return my Cruiser in worse shape than it was.

The shaking has gotten worse. Every time before it quit on me today it was shaking pretty bad. You didn’t have to “try” to feel it.

Prior to it going to the dealer the first time it didn’t have the shaking issue. It would just die mid stream.

Also to note: One of the times it died today I was driving pretty fast. At least I wanna say 45? And then shaking-and then just die. The 4th time I was pretty worried it wasn’t going to start back up. It was a little rough to start when it usually just starts back up.

The dealer said they would get a “Master Mechanic” to look it over and if need be get Toyota involved. I just want my rig fixed!!!!!
When I bought this truck I bought it with the intent that it would go the long haul. I don’t mind fixing it and maintaining it etc. I didn’t expect it wouldn’t throw a code and I’d be stuck with a non functional vehicle that no one can fix


I’m going to think positively and click my heels together 3 times and pray it can be fixed.

And if you guys have any more advice please chime in! I appreciate the support as always!

I’ll update again when I hear back from the dealer with their next diagnosis. Wish me luck. I’m gonna need it.

 

[flintknapper]

So sorry to hear of this Wendy. I know how frustrating and disconcerting it can be to not be able to 'trust' your vehicle especially after having spent a considerable amount of money on it.

Go back to post #9 of this thread. I have a strong suspicion that you may have a failing fuel pump. Your vehicle's symptoms are classic intermittent failure and will not throw a code. And even IF not the problem....at your mileage, a failed fuel pump is in your future at some point, so replacing it now would accomplish two things:

1. Potentially solve your current issue.
2. Prevent you from having a 'dying engine' episode in the future *related to the fuel pump*.

As you've already discovered....having your vehicle die 'at speed' can put you in a precarious position. It is a serious safety issue.

The fact that the vehicle will start again suggests something *likely the fuel pump* is heating up, failing then cooling and working again.

And a tip to follow whether the fuel pump or not, always strive to keep a 1/4 tank of fuel in your vehicle. The fuel pump is cooled by immersion in gasoline and pump life span can be affected by those who habitually run their tank nearly empty.

Have the tech focus on the fuel delivery system, specifically the fuel pump and ALL connections and wiring.

 

[Mauser]

My sister bought a 2000 LX earlier this year. She was having the same problem with it dying on her and not throwing a code. Well, sometimes it would throw a misfire code, but it was always a different cylinder. It ended up being that the crank position sensor wires were hitting the pulley and every once in a while would short enough for it to die.