I bypassed my piping to the rear heater today. It leaks inside and now on the outside, so I replumbed it at the firewall. I am wondering what I should cap those lines with. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Piping to rear heater (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter northwest
- Start date
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Wy not just use a hose and run then together?
You may have to use a tubing bender and bend yourself a "U" shaped piece since they are so close together.
You may have to use a tubing bender and bend yourself a "U" shaped piece since they are so close together.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
Mine are looped together with a length of hose... PO did it and I never touched it....
- Thread starter
- #4
I did that but did not use clamps so I get a little dribble. I will clamp it tomorrow. I think I need a longer piece of hose also. I hate leaks, so I am really busy on this rig.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
I tried regular old heater hose but it kinked (ran a loop on the inside) so I went to Advance Auto and they let me browse their selection of prebent heater hoses. I found one that was a pretty close match - trimmed one side a bit shorter than it came from the store, clamped it into place and was good to go!
I did remove it later to hook the rear heater back up. The heat in my pig was horrible without the rear heater hooked up.
I did remove it later to hook the rear heater back up. The heat in my pig was horrible without the rear heater hooked up.
Agreed ,but why not fix the back heater? Mike
- Thread starter
- #7
I would like to say that was my original idea. It does seem like a good idea now. If anyone has a suggestion on where to get that valve, I am all ears.
Valve ? the rear heater valve ? Leaks around control 'stem' ?
Open valve fully; build solder seal....
'tin' (solder film layer) the valve stem and valve housing...then
run torch as cool as possible so solder is pastey rather than runny
and build bridge stem to housing.
If you get the area really clean (brake cleaner), JB weld might al stick well enough.
If it's not the control stem , , ,well , , ,maybe you can JB weld or solder the leak ?
Open valve fully; build solder seal....
'tin' (solder film layer) the valve stem and valve housing...then
run torch as cool as possible so solder is pastey rather than runny
and build bridge stem to housing.
If you get the area really clean (brake cleaner), JB weld might al stick well enough.
If it's not the control stem , , ,well , , ,maybe you can JB weld or solder the leak ?
I removed mine too since I never used it and put an inverter in its place. If someone needs my rear heater, let me know.
