Pinion seal (1 Viewer)

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Oct 2, 2015
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Port Orchard, wa
I've watched several videos and read a few instructions so far...

And from what I understand, to replace the pinion seal I have to remove the carrier and pound the pinion out.

To replace, I need a new crush sleeve and pinion nut, and have a torque wrench that I can measure the bearing drag on when replacing it, and a dial gauge to reset the adjusters?

And, does anyone know what size the holes are in the adjuster (so that I can make a spanner for it), or where I can buy a spanner to turn these?

Assuming all the bearing are still good, and it's put together correctly now, should I be able to take one of these apart and put it back together with a new seal without needing a press and bearing separator?

I am working on replacing my rear axle. Using an FJ60 axle case and shafts, and a third member from a FJ55 that was a year newer than my FJ40. Already verified that I have the correct gear ratio and everything looks like it will fit together (replacing the brakes with disks, I didn't get any brakes from the FJ60). Having it this far apart replacing that seal seems timely (it's dirty enough to assume it was leaking) and it would be easier to clean fully torn down.
 
No. You just need to pull the old seal, put in a new one and retorque the pinion nut. No crush sleeves until the mid 80s.

But I have to remove the pinion to get the seal out (and remove the carrier to get the pinion out)?

Or is it possible to remove the seal with the pinion still in? (does it seal against the yoke?)
 
Or is it possible to remove the seal with the pinion still in? (does it seal against the yoke?)
Yes to both questions.
On my 74,s there is no crush sleeve as Pin_Head said. It uses shim washers instead.
The exploded view as SOR might help ya "HERE"
 
As PinHead sez, but also check the flange sealing surface for any galls/wear grooves from old seal. You then have the option of replacing the flange with a new one from a vendor like Cruiser Outfitters, or install a speedi-sleeve. I had a speedi-sleeve on hand, so I chose that option on my tcase front output shaft (same seal). If you haven't made a holding tool for loosening/torqueing, now would be a good time. I made mine out of 1.5" x 1/4 flat stock, about 29" long. Use a piece of cardboard to figure out the arc to cut out (it's not much) as well as the two bolt holes on either side of the arc.
 

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