76 fj40 -front diff has a Toyota eLocker from a fzj80
So I searched and I'm not seeing these answers and appreciate any help. Hope I'm using the right names here as I'm still a newb at this.
The pinion nut is loose on my front diff. It goes from side to side and up down or any other direction you choose by a couple of mm. I know that is a bad thing. I pulled off the driveshaft hoping the nut had just worked its way loose and would be an easy fix. When I first saw it I was sure that was it because it doesn't look like the nut was staked well (or it backed off somehow). See pic below. However the nut feels pretty durn tight.
BUT when I tried to measure preload I got a big zero. FIRST QUESTION: should hubs be locked or unlocked when measuring preload? I had mine locked when I got the zero reading.
With hubs still locked I tried to torque nut down but need to fab the flange tool first to do it right. So that will be tomorrow. What little i could tell it feels tight already. SECOND QUESTION: keep hub locked when torquing nut to spec?
THIRD QUESTION: If it is truly at spec already, then is my only option to jump into the deep end and pull the diff to start tearing it apart and measuring? I've got a bad feeling this is the road I'm headed down.
Thanks.
So I searched and I'm not seeing these answers and appreciate any help. Hope I'm using the right names here as I'm still a newb at this.
The pinion nut is loose on my front diff. It goes from side to side and up down or any other direction you choose by a couple of mm. I know that is a bad thing. I pulled off the driveshaft hoping the nut had just worked its way loose and would be an easy fix. When I first saw it I was sure that was it because it doesn't look like the nut was staked well (or it backed off somehow). See pic below. However the nut feels pretty durn tight.
BUT when I tried to measure preload I got a big zero. FIRST QUESTION: should hubs be locked or unlocked when measuring preload? I had mine locked when I got the zero reading.
With hubs still locked I tried to torque nut down but need to fab the flange tool first to do it right. So that will be tomorrow. What little i could tell it feels tight already. SECOND QUESTION: keep hub locked when torquing nut to spec?
THIRD QUESTION: If it is truly at spec already, then is my only option to jump into the deep end and pull the diff to start tearing it apart and measuring? I've got a bad feeling this is the road I'm headed down.
Thanks.