Pig questions/advice for a novice (1 Viewer)

[cactusjack]

I appreciated the feedback on the carb from Autozone so much, that I thought I would approach the table with more questions for the Knights, bearing offerings of beer, and winches

Apologies first, I am a total newb when it comes to anything automotive, and want to make sure I am doing everything right, especially on this Pig o' mine. I have gone through the forums, I think pretty thoroughly, and couldn't find the answers, so here goes.

I picked up a carb from a local "Cruiser" type who had rebuilt it, I have put it on the stock F motor, and it idles high, much higher than the other carb that I took off. I have adjusted the top screw, but this doesn't affect it, and the only other advice I got from the guy who sold me the carb was that it could be a leak, which I tested for with the carb cleaner, but no go. My question is should I mess around with the other screws, or take it to a mechanic to learn how to do this.

Second, I see that the PO had put on extended shackles, (4 1/2" pin to pin) what does this give me? Should I try to swap out the 28's on it with some 33 x 10.5, or will this rub.

Third, and last, as I will probably run out of beer soon, the rear window motor seems to work, just stuck, the "Cruiser" guy said to NEVER spray WD40 the mechanism, so what should I do to loosen it up to see if it really works?

Again, I really appreciate this. I now bow my head and walk backwards to the end of the room to await the replies.

 

[Pighead]

Welcome back, Jack.
You found a rebuilt carb? (rebuilt by whom, may I ask?)
You adjusted the top screw, nothing happened. There are, probably, 3 adjusting screws on that carb ('73, correct?). Look for the bottom screw.
Leaks are not uncommon and can cause high idle, I prefer to use a vacuum gauge over carb cleaner to diagnose them. Do you have a manual? I find it useful and like the pictures. When you have a manual, and learn the name of these 3 adjusting screws, you can mess around and don't need to go to a mechanic.

You can run 33s with a shackle lift..

You can remove the tailgate access panel to view the inner workings of the window mechanism. It's almost the most complicated thing on your Pig and must be handled with care or you can lose a finger. You can extend the window with the tailgate down (extra points if you figger out how without asking) to oberve the workings and see where it hangs up. Keep in mind that tailgate window troubles that you think are mechanical, are often electrical.
I stopped using wd-40. Only use PB blaster thesedays
Good luck, keep us posted. Oh, and you misspelled wenches.

 

[clemson55]

Another thign to check with that high idle may be the distributor. Are you sure you have it adjusted well. I agree with pighead on the screws though you need to mess with the bottom one which adjust the amount of fuel getting in. You probably have about an inch of lift maybe a little more. I only have 31's on mine with just a shackle but 33's would fit.

 

[cactusjack]

Sorry about this mispelling, sometimes my wench does winching, so I get those confused.

I know where the bottom screw is, so I will try adjusting it to see if that does anything, the manual isn't very clear, but as long as I can't do any permanent damage, I think I will be fine.

The rebuilt came from Tony, he is a Jeep guy who has had cruisers in the past. He only charged me $150 for the carb, so that may be the problem, but he pulled it off of a FJ40 that was running (I saw it come off.) With that said, it could be the distributor...

The window is "stuck" in the up position, but I just removed the guides/arms from the window stays (probably the wrong wording) and I am able to move it around and out of the way. The gears seem stuck solid, but the motor runs when the button is pushed, when going down it "knock knock knocks" put pushing it up purrs like a kitten, although it doesn't move.

Thanks again, any thoughts on using POR15 trunk/floor resto to cover up a few holes in the floor to keep the bugs out? Or should I learn how to weld.

 

[trucruiser]

For the rear window, there is a plastic cylinder that connects to the gear and this is the part that you are most likely having trouble with , it could be stripped or broken.

 

[Pighead]

Gosh, CJ, you're progressing very well for a newb. You've got a book and you know which end of the screwdriver to hold...well done.
If you found the idle speed screw (hint: it's the one you can't see when the carb is on the manifold) turning it out will slow the engine speed (theoretically). Count turns so you can put it back where it was. Also, check vacuum lines (how many do you have?) and check timing (with the vac line to the dizzy disconnected and plugged). Also check your choke linkage, make sure it's not interferring (and locate fast idle screw)
Good job on disassembling rear window. True, the rubber connecting gizmo between the motor and the gear may be broken. More common is the nylon gear itself. Pray for the nylon gear, it's still available from the dealer. Pics & part number on request.

 

[FJBen]

Pics & part number on request.

I need one of those for the pig I am selling...it's rear window no worka so good...

what pray-tell is that part number???

 

[Pighead]

Two birds/ one stone...
FJBen, yer part #
CJ, under that 6 Phillips cover is where the gear lives...

 

[CruiserMax]

That gear is a crucial part of the entire FJ55! Fortunately it is available from Toyota and is not that expensive. Most tailgate issues are solvable and do not require replacing the entire motor. Rust, obstructions, electrical stuff, previous owner screw-ups are usually to blame. The Pig gate glass can be hassle for owners, sometimes extremely frustrating: its such an important part of the truck. Once you have it figured out they seem pretty reliable. My glass zooms up fast: a bad device for little kids if they suddenly stick their heads into the action. I caught my dogs head in the glass once and she was not too happy about it...

Max

 

[Pighead]

It crushes beer cans too.

 

[bitfreak420]

When I get a danged motor, beer cans better watch out. Or will it do bottles too?

 

[cactusjack]

Update

Thanks for the advice PH, the bottom screw did the job! It has one vacuum line going into the carb, and although I don't have any way of testing it, it seems to work fine. I know nothing about distributors, so I am glad that I didn't have to play around with it.

YES! It is the nylon gear, and my dealership had no idea what I was talking about, and "Steve" said I should call back when another guy is there, what can you expect from a place whose spokesman is John Elway !?!?!?

Going to start some of the rust removal work, will post pics in a couple of weeks when it is done.

 

[nuclearlemon]

skip john elway. go to mountain states toyota and ask for ron if you want to shop local, but best bet is cruiserdan on the board.

 

[hatfieldcb]

I use Burt Toyota in Englewood a lot.

Chris

 

[bonzai]

Thank you for the info(indirrectly)

I think I have the same rear wind. prob.