Picture needed of interior of 1994 MAF sensor

[3pits]

TLDR; I need a picture of the inside of a good working MAF for a 94 fzj80.

I have been tracing down a hard stalling problem for about 6 months. I have read probably 50 hours worth of threads.
Seemed to happen more when I hit bridges or railroad tracks, but would happen on smooth roads too. I live on a rough dirt road and my vehicle gets jarred around every day.

I have checked or changed :
FPR-checked
distributor-cap and rotor-changed
spark plug wires, changed
plugs, changed
coil...just made sure it was sending spark to all wires
harness*-pulled on wires all over the engine bay,,
fuel pump
fuel sock
fuel filter-changed
vacuum hoses
wires under the dash near the glove box
relays
fuses
fusible links-visiual inspection, resistance testing
egr
speed sensor-just made sure it was connected
harness behind engine/touching the EGR tube
O2 sensors and wires, changed sensors, checked wires for chafing
knock sensor-changed plug
found 3 out of 6 fuel injector clips were broken and probably coming off the injectors-temp fix-zip ties

was planning on checking the transmission rotation sensor, crank position sensor.
The hard stalls at speed, under load seemed random and I could not reproduce them in the shop.. until I wiggled the MAF pigtail... long story short, it would stall and cut out. I don't think I damaged it when I removed the screws and gently pulled it back until I felt resistance.

I have another known good MAF from my 88 62. BUT in the 94 80 the thin metal tabs that are soldered on top of the more stout tabs that touch the board, were bent and looking wanky, compared to the known good one, they just stick out toward the dial pin (?),,, in the 94 it seemed one was touching the other, and that might have been my ultimate problem.

what are they there for? is that dial pin supposed to touch those tabs at some point while it is arcing?

 

[ajax1]

94 don't run maf, not worth cutting one open just swap a known good one and see, when mine went out truck would not idle at all, or just test it per fsm
You also don't open these they will get ruined you prob fxxxed it up unless you got lucky, but just swap the good one

 

[3pits]

Since I made the original post I installed the one I thought was good one, and the engine is not idling correctly.


MAF, AFS... Intake Air Flow Meter Assembly, Toyota Part number 22250-66010

I have attempted to test it per the FSM, and it does not test out, because I believe the tabs have been moved by the PO, so I want to see someone else's Toyota part number 22250-66010, guts to see what mine is supposed to look like, assuming someone has one already open.

Before disassembly mine was idling fine, at speed (between 35 mph and 80 mph) the engine would cut out and I would not have control of the throttle, I can push it to the floor for 30 seconds or longer and the RPM would stay constant or go lower.
An engine basically needs fuel, air, and spark, I believe I am getting spark and fuel (I can smell fuel when this happens)
The throttle is sensitive at idle and when not under load, but when an episode like this is happening, I can put the transmission selector into Neutral and the throttle has a mild delay. So that semi eliminates the TPS.