photos of e-locker actuator rebuild (1 Viewer)

[clownmidget]

Well my front actuator for the factory locker just stopped working after a few months of being really sketchy. Sometimes it would take driving over a quarter of a mile on a trail, turning the wheels lock to lock before it would finally lock up. I've just been putting off the rebuild since it is the front one and the truck gets driven enough that having it out of service for more than a day or two isn't going to work. I've got the FSM and have done as much background on it as possible (yes, I know about Christo's page detailing the rebuild by Glen Gustafson) but I'd like to see any photos anyone took while doing this. Any general tips, etc. about tackling it and getting it done ASAP would be appreciated as well.

Also, anyone know if I can safely drive the truck with the actuator removed for a few days? I don't have the FSM cracked open right now but I seem to remember that you really needed to keep everything in the same place when you remove it so re-installation is properly done. If I can get around that, the job would be much easier just being able to drive the truck while I rebuild the acutator.

Oh yeah, I've checked all the wiring, switch, etc. This is just the classic case of a bunch of crud inside the actuator gumming it's internals up. They had never been used until I bought the truck w/ 75K miles and I could just never "loosen" the front one up. The rear works just fine after 2 yrs of locking it up weekly.

Thanks in advance for any input/advice.
Mike R.

 

[landtoy80]

I made a plate to cover the hole and used a big nut and bolt to replace the rod that moves the lock.
If you can seal the hole and keep the locking arm from moving from inside the diff, then you are good to drive.

 

[landtoy80]

...

 

[landtoy80]

Shift fork. That is what the nut/bolt is holding.

 

[clownmidget]

Kurt, thanks that was exactly what I was trying to figure out. I guess I forgot about you bashing your rear one. Good luck with it. I guess maybe I'll take a bunch of pictures while I go through this rebuild for posterity...

Mike R.

 

[thelal]

Mike,
I have lots of photos of my rebuild but for the rear. I don't know exactly how much different they are but the FSM should give 'some' indication.
The reason I say some is that the FSM was pretty crap when it gets down to taking the actuator 'guts' apart and spring and motor etc.. etc..

Lal
brendan.lally@mail.com

 

[cruiserdan]

The reason the FSM does not cover actuator disassembly is because Toyota considers them sealed units and does not service any parts inside of them.
Before tearing into one bear in mind that you will need to fab any broken or worn pieces you find inside and don't lose any pieces as you will be up "sheet creek" without a paddle.

 

[NW-sickboy]

any chance you still have these photos?

 

[GXO]

Search for posts by me and RavenTai, we did a full rebuild of mine.

Will see what I can find...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=32406&highlight=actuator

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=112420&highlight=actuator

The best advice I can give is to remember the orientation of all the plates within the large wheel and assemble post cleaning with grease and, most importantly, run the actuator while assembling so you don't hydrolock the motor with the grease.

 

[NW-sickboy]

cool those were the ones i was looking for... thanks

 

[buffethat@comcast.ne]

I just redid my rear unit but it was from a 4Runner, pretty much the same. One of the contacts was corroded and needed to be replaced. As mentioned before Toyota does not sell parts for these, teh whole unit cost $900 from my dealer, fricking nuts.

Anyway, the motor itself was dirty and needed a good cleaning, not to hard. The accuator it self was were the problem was. One of the contacts was so corroded that it had lost the wire atachment. I removed the two screws holding in the contacts and pulled out the old contact.

To make a new contact I actually stole one from a Black and Decker screwdriver charging unit. It did not work anyway so it made a good donation. I had to remove the wire of it and sotter it on once I got the contact mounted. it is hard to explain but I did need to use a dremell tool to open up the plastic holder a little. Some more sotter and the motor was spinning up.

I hope this helps a little, I do know that Inchworm will rebuild them for about $150-250 a piece, very steep if you ask me but...........

good luck, hope it all works out and if you need something PM or email me.