Photo of rear sunroof drain line...

[spartan]

...noticed several threads on this lately and thought I'd post this pic for information purposes.

The interior body molding pops off easily by starting at the rear and gently working your way around. Had it off to silicone quarter panel moulding mount points, rear marker lights, rear window clips etc.

This is what you will see after you get the starboard side cargo panel off. That big black hose is the rear sunroof drain coming down from the C pillar and exits behind the rear mudflap. Ditto on the port side.

Same size lines come down the A pillars in front and drain into rocker panels. I checked mine just for kicks after reading the leak posts and my driver's side was compressed by a mass of electrical wires. Took off the kick panel and cleared the pressure.

The other drains were taking up the slack. No leaks. Cleared driver's side with compressed air and weed whacker line.

 

[concretejungle]

Oh, so that's what that hose is for. I seriously didn't know that. cool. I will check my front one's tomorrow.

 

[spartan]

Neither did I - amazing what you can learn from the " mud ".

 

[jonb96150]

Thanks for the pix. I'm kinda wishing I didn't have a sunroof as they can be problematic, but oh well. And for us lubbers, port is left side and starboard is right side, is that correct?

 

[spartan]

Bow is front - port is left - starboard is right - aft is rear. Everything looking forwards from the rear.

Now - who can tell me what the mainsheet traveler does? Or how many halyard lines there are on a standard sloop?

 

[Little Boss]

...noticed several threads on this lately and thought I'd post this pic for information purposes.

The interior body molding pops off easily by starting at the rear and gently working your way around. Had it off to silicone quarter panel moulding mount points, rear marker lights, rear window clips etc.

This is what you will see after you get the starboard side cargo panel off. That big black hose is the rear sunroof drain coming down from the C pillar and exits behind the rear mudflap. Ditto on the port side.

Same size lines come down the A pillars in front and drain into rocker panels. I checked mine just for kicks after reading the leak posts and my driver's side was compressed by a mass of electrical wires. Took off the kick panel and cleared the pressure.

The other drains were taking up the slack. No leaks. Cleared driver's side with compressed air and weed whacker line.

If you find that the rear drain drains clear, check the clips on the outside below the rear slider. Most likely they are rotten, the water fills into that panel area and as your vehicle moves it seems to swash up onto the carpet in gour cargo area.
Teresa

 

[spartan]

Wow - that's nasty looking.....

If those three clips are intact, just seal them from inside the rear quarter panel with silicone. Popping them off from the outside will most likely break them and lead to further complications. Seal from the inside and don't remove any more fascia than necessary.

On the other hand - if you have that much trash and mud in your slider valance trim I would remove and replace all components - then seal with silicone - from the interior.

 

[photogod]

Bow is front - port is left - starboard is right - aft is rear. Everything looking forwards from the rear.

Now - who can tell me what the mainsheet traveler does? Or how many halyard lines there are on a standard sloop?

1, centers the boom 2, main, jib, spinnaker. If you race you will most likely have two jib halyards to change sails under way without having to tac. Chicago to Mac baby. Isle Royal, Apostal Islands, Superior North Shore. Charter certified since 1983. Fore is front, aft is rear, bow is the front of the boat, transom is the rear of the boat.

 

[Little Boss]

Wow - that's nasty looking.....

If those three clips are intact, just seal them from inside the rear quarter panel with silicone. Popping them off from the outside will most likely break them and lead to further complications. Seal from the inside and don't remove any more fascia than necessary.

On the other hand - if you have that much trash and mud in your slider valance trim I would remove and replace all components - then seal with silicone - from the interior.

What you see inthose pics is dust that had turned to mud from rain, and washing. The trash looking stuff must be the worn out paper thin gromets that were once on the clip. The clips themselves were intact. Unfortunately his is the fact when you live in the country. Some don't have a garage or a paved road to get home. Some have to drive through creek crossings to get home. Some seals were completely missing (just like CDAN said they might be. I did not break clips during the removal, All the clips were re-used, not the gromets.). Its a 12 + year old vehicle, what do you expect. It has been sealed properly with Silicon II. If the seals had failed, which they had because they were leaking, it should be well understood that the water and small amounts of sediment will try to go down throgh those wholes. Seems to reason that the proper procedure(cleaning) would be to remove the outer strip completely and clean the region. Then thoroghly seal it with silicon. We all know tha that caulk and silicon must be applied to a clean dry surface. The point is is that the origional seal was place 12 years ago, and its time to fix it. Maybe to be completeley complete do what I did and then seal the inside. Should be a done deal. My main point is that without popping off that trim piece, who would have known what it looked like underneath.
Teresa

 

[spartan]

Teresa - nice job and excellent points.

photogod - great trips.....

Chesapeake Bay, Newport to Savannah, Lauderdale to Virgins via Bahamas and Turks, San Juan to Trinidad down the Windwards, Med, Roatan, Belize, Sea of Cortez.....knocked down three times off Hatteras one night and one hurricane St. Lucia for 15 hours.

Apostal Islands - man it's cold up there...LOL

 

[photogod]

Aint sailin fun?! Nothin like a hurricane or a good Noreaster to put hair on your chest. Lake Superior is really quite swimable if you stay in the first three feet of water, after that, well, lets just say things tend to shrink a bit and go numb. It has been noted that 25% of the fatalaties on lake Superior if found are found with their flys open. This is because when they (men) take a leak off the stern and fall in they gasp for a breath because the water is so cold. They take in a good deal of water and drown. It's an uncontrolable reflex action. Funniest thing I ever saw was when I was sitting on the cabin top sailing down wind, wing & wing in a 40' Tartan in a crisp 25kt breeze and watched the digny pass us on the starboard side surfing down the waves. Almost as fun as wheelin?!

 

[spartan]

My wife's family are all from Silver Bay - o ya - lot's of bars and coffee...luv the trout and salmon fishing up there!!!!

That's funny about the fly thing....that's why I like to stay in warm water.

Ok so here's my best one; 95 knots sustained wind off St . Lucia - I feel something tugging on the boat from the rear - I look back and the Avon inflatable - minus outboard - is flying like a kite on 30 feet of line in 95 knots of wind - comes down and buries itself nose down in the water like a giant trollling plug. Had to go in the water, put a line on it and winch it back on to the rear of a 38 foot Leopard cat. Back in the cockpit .....my three companions continue to throw up on me for another five hours.....one was hopitalized for hypothermia.....the fun never ends!

 

[lowtideride]

Its good you are in there sealing stuff up because these will fall to the fate just like the 60 series. Most of them have rust around the seal of the rear glass. I have already gone and popped most of the plastic peices out and am filling them in before paint. I dont know if silcone is the best approach because it is acid based and will break down paint and rust metal over time. Seam sealer would be a better approach.


along the lines of sealing stuff up...

I was taking the doors apart to rust bullet them ( doors looked perfect to the eye) and even the spot welded seem look good. But i noticed a very small spot where the seam sealer was popped out a 1/16 of inch if that. So, i peeled it back to find rust in the seem. I ended up cutting the whole bottom spot welded seem off the bottom of the door. So why am i blabbing on about this.

Well, the doors will rust from the inside out. If you wish to have you cruiser for a long time, Now would be a good time to open up the doors and seal from the inside along the bottom of the door, but make sure not to fill in the drain holes to let the water out. It was annoying to find this. But, i am glad i found it now rather than later.

 

[yellowchaosfj80]

Nice work Spartan! good write up!