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Discussion in 'LA- Louisiana Land Krewesers' started by 4xphoenix, Dec 15, 2014.
Wow this is going to be awesome!!
The electrical work requires a lot of thought, so it is progressing well...I have removed the upside-down installation of the fuse block (LOL) and sorted the generic harness into the systems I will have installed. Today, I checked the bundles and fed them thru the firewall. This image shows the fuse block on the floor with the operational groups I am using. I have actually fed them thru the firewall but that is kinda nondescript...
I would be glad to discuss the mods required but they are very specific to the harness used...I am using a "hot rod" harness from Spectre Off Road (SOR) that is relabeled for an FJ40. The wiring is well documented and I am correlating the new wiring diagrams with the "standard" from a 1975 Erick pointed me to. The wiring mostly checks out and everything is on track...
I have taped up the harness near the fuse block because this method is still used; it does give good protection for abrasion against the clutch pedal support; the wires all go to the left of this structure and rub against it. Since I am keeping the mostly functioning combo meter, I had to add the 10-gauge wires for the ammeter to the appropriate groups but the harness slipped thru the firewall without a fuss and the fuse block is in its approximate final location, but I will not be able to use existing brackets. I plan to just get in location and use ~1 inch spacers on four new bolts thru the firewall.
It will finally be mounted a couple of inches higher than this image shows but lower than I had hoped; however, the clutch pedal will prevent accidentally kicking it...
I have spent a couple of days correlating the switches, gauges, old harness, new harness, and new wiring for fuel pump and headlight relays, but today I actually wired something up...the accessory plug (aka cigarette lighter) and ignition panel...
...but somehow I lost the cigarette lighter power wire (WTF?); I opened the only taped harness section and it wasn't there; I spent hours reexamining the harness; finally, I just said "**** it" (if I can't find it, it must be taped up as strange as that would be) and used the electric fan circuit, which I definitely don't need with a 2F engine. On the up side, this gave me a chance to check every circuit and all is "green light" for finishing up the switches when the 8-switch panel arrives...
Where are you getting the switch panel from and where are you mounting it? I am guessing on the radio slot for mounting it.
I ordered a blank 4-switch panel from Dirty Parts (shipped) and an 8 switch panel from Land Cruiser Parts (brand new item they don't actually have yet). The large one goes in the radio hole, which will be elongated, and the short one will fit the ash tray. The ARB switches are for the short one.
I have completed the interior switches but am waiting for the 8-switch panel from Land Cruiser Parts, which is a new item. Meanwhile, I am dealing with hazard lights. Both the Toyota and GM-based SOR harness leave dealing with turn signals/hazard lights up to the signal switch, which doesn't work for me because I am using a simple turn-signal-switch with no extra functions. After looking at several hot rod forums (similar vehicle to mine), where a typical comment was "My car didn't have them when new and I don't need no freaking hazard lights now..." (paraphrased), I found lots of information from motorcycle enthusiasts.
The image below shows how to wire in a separate hazard light circuit into the turn signals.
The trick is using "rectifier diodes", not the LEDs that are so popular as bling. I couldn't find a clear answer for application to a truck but one common suggestion was a "1N4002". I went to Radio Shack and they didn't have these, but I found a "1N4004" that is rated at 400V and 1 amp of forward current. I haven't yet done the calculation to see how this compares for a 12V system. I bought four (~$2 for a package of two) and soldered one into some 14 gauge wire for a test. Here is a photo of the package...
There is a stripe on one tiny end that is supposed to be the "output" direction. I installed the diode with wire leads into the disassembled front fender turn-signal assemblies and it worked like magic! This photo shows only the right turn signal on with both connected but only the right in the current flow direction.
I left it on for 10 minutes and it didn't fail and I felt no heat, as if this tiny thing would warm my fingers before blowing...LOL. I will make four of these and install them under the dash (protected from the elements and engine heat) in four leads to each of the turn signal wires in the engine compartment. Finally, here are all of the eight switches wired up and checked for continuity but awaiting the panel to finish.
I used ground wires for everything and there are a LOT of white wires under the dash. I am going to use a ground block as suggested on the hot rod forums because my grounds are iffy at best. I had to disassemble and rewire both turn signals to get a solid ground to test the proposed circuit. If there is no rain tomorrow, I will install the fuse block with at least four screws...
I have one additional comment for today. I am using the following switches:
1. toggle ignition switch
2. push button starter
3. toggle accessory switch
4. carling rocker (cr) fuel pump relay (ground trigger)
5. cr headlight relay and parking lights (both come on at same time)
6. cr back-up lights (the switch still works on the transmission so I may wire it up and wait for failure to hardwire)
7. cr dome light (don't know what it will be but it was included in the harness)
8. cr wiper (one speed...wide open)
9. cr heater blower (two speeds)
10. cr hazard light
11. cr horn
12. floor-mounted dimmer
13. cr ARB front dif
14. cr ARB rear dif
15. cr ARB compressor
16.cr blank (probably second air compressor for tire inflation)
These are all wired...whew!
I didn't get to the fust block...tomorrow...but finished making the rectifier diode assemblies for the hazard lights.
All wires are thru the firewall except the ARB harness, which is self-contained with plugs for the switches. After completing the fuse block and dimmer switch installation, I will start on the tail group, which includes the fuel pump. This will lead to dealing with the fuel lines and fuel canister, which I intend to retain because it is a good idea to collect fumes in a safe location that drains under the vehicle on the opposite side from the exhaust.
I am wrapping the harness with electrical tape rather than those flex hoses. It seems a lot more robust because none of the 40-year-old splices in the OEM harness (wrapped in electrical tap) showed any sign of corrosion, but I have already used two rolls...LOL!
I am just adding notes about the ARB wiring because it is a supplied harness already taped. However, it is a bit tricky with two lockers and no tire inflation; i.e., the supplied harness incorporates an isolation switch, which is the detailed wiring diagram included with the locker itself; the diagram for my set-up is schematic in the locker docs, which refer to specific wiring for you harness; I couldn't find such but it works out by just ignoring the detailed wiring for the rectifier diodes (prevent running everything when any switch is on) and the pump relay; the wires are correct and the plugs are not interchangeable, but it is important to note switch 1 and switch 2 because 2 only works if 1 is on; this is intended to avoid use of a front locker (switch 2) without the rear (switch 1) engaged; and nothing works if the isolation switch is off.
Both rocker switch panels arrived the same day and I made minor mods to the radio opening...
...back to the tail lights and then I will begin carefully isolating and checking circuits; at least the new wiring diagram is very detailed!
I conducted a static electrical OP test yesterday and the results were as expected...FAIL...but nothing critical. The lights all work and the rectifier diodes performed as well as in the bench tests...i.e., no leakage from signals to the opposite side and bright flashers. The electric fuel pump using a ground-based trigger was right on as well as the relay circuit for the second compressor. I had to modify the new harness to accommodate the ammeter as shown in this schematic; which shows the Toyota circuit (from a 1975 wiring diagram) in the top panel, the GM circuit from the new harness (middle image), and the hybrid in the lower sketch...
I don't have an alternator yet but I had appropriate discharge readings for the heater blower (15 amps on high, and it does blow!), <10 amps for high beams, and <10 amps for the cigarette lighter.
The FAIL came from the following circuits:
1. ARB locker compressor...has power to the ARB circuit and the lights turn on for their switches...I don't know their circuit that well and they don't really explain anything in their docs. The ground is good but the switch lights (run off the headlight switch) get dimmer as another is turned on...i.e., compressor, switch 1, switch 2.
2. When I tried the wiper (hardwired to high), I heard a click from the switch and the 15 amp fuse blew after 1/4 cycle...everything worked fine when I changed to low speed but the motor made noise...NOT MY FAULT!
3. The dome light worked but no light on the switch...this was caused by the 3-pin Carling switch only handling grounds (from the new harness) so there is no power for lights and not enough pins on the switch.
4. The reverse lights didn't work but I had a faulty test procedure. I used a convenient ground to test it but the ground was for the dome light...it was switched (I haven't connected the battery to the chassis yet)...LOL...all is well.
5. Same problem with the second compressor. The new compressor arrived today and I wired the switch...the relay works and power is available to the compressor when it is installed (I trashed ARBs harness because of the relay circuitry).
6. I got not power to the field for the alternator (aka alternator exciter) when I checked it at the alternator connector...I need to check the power feed at the regulator...I don't really understand how power flows thru this circuit...yet...
Test result: PASS...assuming the alternator field circuit behaves in a currently unknown way and the wire from the new harness will work as well as others have when present...lol; with respect to the ARB, I am not responsible for things withheld from me (It came tightly taped) but I am sure it is a simple problem that an experienced ARB-trained installer would have avoided...
I worked thru the problem list and all is well! The ARB compressor bulkhead fitting was too big for the 16-gauge wire and they weren't making contact (a pro would have known this) so I used butt connectors because it ain't coming out...LOL. The alternator is on the accessory circuit (not ignition as indicated in the new harness docs); this was tested and it does feed to the alternator from the regulator for the test conditions (i.e., no alternator output), which is consistent with the very clear Toyota wiring diagram. I also tested the gauge/sender circuits for the fuel, oil pressure, and temperature; I don't really know what goes on in the gauges but they all had 5-14 V.
I purchased the wrong ARB compressor for serious tire inflation (CKSA12 rather than CKMA12). The CKSA12 would have fit under the hood but not the larger one, so I moved the inflator compressor to beneath the driver seat (I have an aftermarket seat with lots of room); this has been tested and works so I will use it until it fails...
There is plenty of room for the 20' ARB inflator hose and fittings. I am ready to install the air line for the front locker now and test it; the compressor is installed next to the battery...
The result of the electrical op test is PASS, so I will now retape (LOL) the harnesses and use wire clamps to hold them where the OEM stuff is missing or they take a different route...
Today, I retaped everything and did a comprehensive op test of the electrical after jamming the switch wires to clear the heater duct and core. The engine compartment is ready for a motor...
The white wires go to the ground block in the first photo, which is connected to the battery. I replaced the fusible link with a 60 amp maxi fuse and trimmed ~3 feet from the ARB harness for the lockers (second photo). I was going to install the tire-inflator compressor next to the relay seen in the third photo, but it was moved to beneath the driver's seat when I realized it may have a relatively short lifespan and the larger ones wouldn't fit in this space.
I fit the heater core and duct in to have no contact with wires, which is better than Toyota I think because the flange to attach the duct to the core is busted on the back side, which will require repair; someone tried friction tape but it isn't really working; I am going to avoid fiberglass work if possible because it would make the duct more rigid and thicker, which could make a problem unsolvable...maybe a couple of large radiator hose clamps bent to a rectangle?
Also, I had forgotten to include the license plate lights in my op test so I checked them today...I only left these and the front turn signals/parking lights on chassis grounds...needless to say I installed a ground to the chassis (not the tailgate) fpr the license plate lights because they aren't that important...they worked fine 6 months ago...LOL
I completed the wiring (sans an engime) with installation of the "dome" light; I wanted a 12" light bar with some kinda housing but couldn't find one so...I got a 120W light bar (<10 amps) with brighter than sunlight output and tested it in daylight...
It may take a few moments to see again but I should be able to read any map or handwritten directions in here!
The fuel pump has been replaced by an electric one mounted along the frame under the skid plate. I also replaced the aluminum fuel line with rubber hose all the way to the carburetor. The filter has filters on input and output sides...only the output is seen in the photo. The fuel line to the tank is the same except for the extra filter; however, I connected the fuel return line to the carbon canister because I will be using a Weber, which has no vent (pressure carburetor)
All of the fuel tank lines will be connected where they belong or to atmospheric pressure; I will be sniffing for any fuel vapors with the hardtop installed...LOL!
I had to move the carbon canister because of the ARB pump; to do this I fabricated a bracket from some 2" angle iron I had and, lacking a welder since I sold it, used a leftover bracket to attach the two angles; the horizontal "bracket" rests on the lower and the "strap" simply limits movement...These photos can help see how it was constructed (a welder would have been better but...)...
This photo shows how the OEM bracket is retained but moved to the bottom of the canister. The OEM bracket is bolted to an upright angle that attaches to a horizontal angle.
This photo shows this horizontal angle, which attaches to the fender using a fender support bolt. The aft end of this angle is supported by a similar angle that is mounted to the fender using OEM bolts...this is seen in the first photo to the lower right of the canister.
This view looks down, showing the OEM bracket attachment to the vertical angle.
The OEM pressure line is connected using the OEM aluminum tubing to the pressure valve at the tank. The other line goes to the fuel return at the tank.
Finally for today, I was looking around for replacement hose for the cowl drains on my 12/74 vehicle; apparently, older 40s had a working cowl vent, which I never had...completely welded up from the factory, so the drains are for the bathtup created by a cowl "air box"; the best and most applicable solution I found was to seal up the exterior "cowl intake", which I did as seen here...
I trimmed a piece of aluminum down and painted it flat black...
I sealed it up with 20-year adhesive caulk and installed the cowl vent over it. I should be able to remove the vent cover to clean out whatever can jam its way into that small space.
I have been waiting for the motor, which took a while because of the obvious difficulties of getting motors and parts, but it is en route...I spent a little time on the rear differential, which is being replaced with an ARB air locker. The rear cover was attached with gasket maker and it was as difficult to remove as the front pull-out...
I cut a piece of 1/8" angle iron with holes for the filler plug and a connector for the hand winch; I attached it to a nearby tree and attached the 40 to the FJC with its brake set. Max load on single line (~1000 lbs) and 30 seconds broke it loose with no damage...I HATE THAT SILICON GASKET MAKER!
I have a delivery scheduled by Southeastern Freight tomorrow afternoon...meanwhile, I am installing new window track felt for the doors. It wasn't very difficult but it took some investigation to find out that the vent windows need to be turned as far as they will go for the stop to align with the window/door slot in the lower door half...
The only surface rust was beneath the vent window frame. I wire-brushed this and painted with primer and black enamel. I also installed the only other door trim piece available (not including door seal), the outer rubber seal. I have started the driver side while waiting for the motor...
It is a good thing I rented the engine hoist for 2 days...the 2F motor mounts use 12-1.25X20 mm bolts instead of the F motor's 10-1.25X20 mm hardware, and I could find nothing in Slidell so the front motor mounts have one bolt stolen from the mount itself and two 45 mm bolts from Lowes with 13 washers...LOL! I will replace while they are accessible. One of my F mounts had the larger holes (mid-year model change?), the other I drilled with a 1/2" and everything fit well.
I was going to install the manifold studs but I got another surprise...I don't know the exact size but they are larger (good idea), except for the end ones. This will be a little more difficult (on my back) with the engine installed but at least the previously missing end ones are in place now.
It goes in tomorrow...
One break, however, in that the new motor had bolt-on lift points that work very well.
I got the new motor installed today, but I had to restore the stolen front motor mount bolts to get the motor aligned.
I am looking at the header and I see storm clouds on the horizon...the oil pressure sender is mounted under the header on the 2F. There is another, larger, fitting just in front of the bell housing that might work...?