Phoenix driveshaft shop/help? (1 Viewer)

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Nov 25, 2019
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Phoenix, AZ
Hey fellas, looking for a local driveshaft shop in Phoenix. Any recommendations?

I'm having some driveline vibration issues in the rear (I have part time kit and manual hubs, So it's definitely not the front) and after redoing the pinion, t case bearings, and correcting the pinion angle and the problem persisting I'm thinking the driveshaft itself is the problem. I replaced the u joints recently and this didn't help, I'm wanting a driveshaft shop to look at it and see if the slip yoke is toast or if it needs rebalanced.

Thanks in advance!
 
I've had great luck contacting JE Reel and just mailing the drive shaft away to them to make it right. I havent been too impressed with a couple of the local shops used. Someone else may have a good recommendation locally for you though I'm sure.

 
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I've had good results with TAD in north Phoenix, I always bring Toyota u joints and have them put the shaft together.

If you ran for much time with a bad pinion angle the slip is probably worn out.
 
I've had good results with TAD in north Phoenix, I always bring Toyota u joints and have them put the shaft together.

If you ran for much time with a bad pinion angle the slip is probably worn out.
I second this recommendation. They did a rear driveshaft for me and it is excellent. About to have them re-build my front DC. They know what they're doing and I always see rock buggies etc in their yard so they appreciate 4wd geeks like us. They're on Deer Valley and 19th Ave, right off I-17.
 
I've had good results with TAD in north Phoenix, I always bring Toyota u joints and have them put the shaft together.

If you ran for much time with a bad pinion angle the slip is probably worn out.
I second this recommendation. They did a rear driveshaft for me and it is excellent. About to have them re-build my front DC. They know what they're doing and I always see rock buggies etc in their yard so they appreciate 4wd geeks like us. They're on Deer Valley and 19th Ave, right off I-17.

I live in N Phoenix so this is perfect. I'll give them a ring.

My vibration/grinding sound woes started as soon as I went from an OME 2" to the Dobinsons 3.5"VT lift. My rear pinion angle was pretty bad, I just corrected it a few weeks ago with adjustable arms but the issue persists (it seems like it helped slightly). My rear diff has been to ZUK, so that's not the issue. Replaced my T-Case rear output bearing, didn't make a difference. Replaced U-Joints, didn't make a difference. There seems to be a few thousandths play in the slip yoke. I also tried swapping my driveshaft for my buddies that has only 164k on it (no lift), the vibration was worse when I did that.
 
I live in N Phoenix so this is perfect. I'll give them a ring.

My vibration/grinding sound woes started as soon as I went from an OME 2" to the Dobinsons 3.5"VT lift. My rear pinion angle was pretty bad, I just corrected it a few weeks ago with adjustable arms but the issue persists (it seems like it helped slightly). My rear diff has been to ZUK, so that's not the issue. Replaced my T-Case rear output bearing, didn't make a difference. Replaced U-Joints, didn't make a difference. There seems to be a few thousandths play in the slip yoke. I also tried swapping my driveshaft for my buddies that has only 164k on it (no lift), the vibration was worse when I did that.

I went through the same thing a few years ago after going to taller springs. Ended up having 3 problems - pinion angle, worn out slip (really bad) and out of phase front shaft. I couldn't get my metaltech upper links short enough to correct the pinion angle, so I made a set of lowers. Now it's nice and smooth.
 
I went through the same thing a few years ago after going to taller springs. Ended up having 3 problems - pinion angle, worn out slip (really bad) and out of phase front shaft. I couldn't get my metaltech upper links short enough to correct the pinion angle, so I made a set of lowers. Now it's nice and smooth.

What exactly determines a badly "worn out slip"? Just the amount of rotational play between splines? Did you end up having to purchase an entirely new shaft? Looks like brand new OEM shafts are only around $375 shipped.
 
What exactly determines a badly "worn out slip"? Just the amount of rotational play between splines? Did you end up having to purchase an entirely new shaft? Looks like brand new OEM shafts are only around $375 shipped.
Not sure, but mine was worn enough that you could feel a good amount of play pushing and pulling perpendicular to the slip. The less the slip was engaged (pulled apart) the worse the play was. When I pulled the slip apart the splines were noticeably thinner where they were engaged at ride height.

When driving it sounded like a manual trans with a bad counter shaft bearing. Noisy and lots of vibes that got much worse on decel.

I put a used shaft on it about 25k ago and it has been good ever since. If a new shaft is that cheap, I would order one. You'd be close to that having yours rebuilt.

Did you measure before and after you put the new springs in to see how much actual height you gained? The Australian stuff advertised lift height is usually given at gvw. Since my truck is fairly light, my dobinson springs are close to 5" of lift, where a CV rear shaft would be much better.
 
Not sure, but mine was worn enough that you could feel a good amount of play pushing and pulling perpendicular to the slip. The less the slip was engaged (pulled apart) the worse the play was. When I pulled the slip apart the splines were noticeably thinner where they were engaged at ride height.

When driving it sounded like a manual trans with a bad counter shaft bearing. Noisy and lots of vibes that got much worse on decel.

I put a used shaft on it about 25k ago and it has been good ever since. If a new shaft is that cheap, I would order one. You'd be close to that having yours rebuilt.

Did you measure before and after you put the new springs in to see how much actual height you gained? The Australian stuff advertised lift height is usually given at gvw. Since my truck is fairly light, my dobinson springs are close to 5" of lift, where a CV rear shaft would be much better.

Mine only does the vibes/grind sound on decel/floating gas pedal (my foot barely on the gas). It's super annoying.

The used shaft I tried did not help at all, it seemed to make it worse.

I did not measure the before and after height, but it was a significant increase. I am pretty heavily loaded with full drawers and a roof rack. Still need my rear bumper+spare 37" tire in the back too. My pinion angle is nearly perfectly parallel to the T-case now after I put on the adjustable arms.
 
Mine only does the vibes/grind sound on decel/floating gas pedal (my foot barely on the gas). It's super annoying.

The used shaft I tried did not help at all, it seemed to make it worse.

I did not measure the before and after height, but it was a significant increase. I am pretty heavily loaded with full drawers and a roof rack. Still need my rear bumper+spare 37" tire in the back too. My pinion angle is nearly perfectly parallel to the T-case now after I put on the adjustable arms.

My truck does the same thing, only on floating pedal (coasting between accel/decel at highway speed). Is the driveshaft the most common cause of this?
 
My truck does the same thing, only on floating pedal (coasting between accel/decel at highway speed). Is the driveshaft the most common cause of this?

There are a lot of causes. If you don't have a DC shaft in the front (and are in full time 4wd) this is most likely the cause. I have part time kit so I am in RWD 95% of the time. Mine is coming from the rear, and it's driving me crazy. I've done about everything I can think of except the driveshaft itself.
 
FWIW I have a Tom Woods Custom drive shaft Certificate worth $150 if you go have them build your up let me know its good til 11/8/20
 
I second this recommendation. They did a rear driveshaft for me and it is excellent. About to have them re-build my front DC. They know what they're doing and I always see rock buggies etc in their yard so they appreciate 4wd geeks like us. They're on Deer Valley and 19th Ave, right off I-17.

This is who I used a few years ago for a Mercedes driveshaft I had laying around. They did good work.
 
I second this recommendation. They did a rear driveshaft for me and it is excellent. About to have them re-build my front DC. They know what they're doing and I always see rock buggies etc in their yard so they appreciate 4wd geeks like us. They're on Deer Valley and 19th Ave, right off I-17.

I will third the recommendation for TAD. I bent my rear shaft a bit on a boulder and they rebuilt it with heavier wall tubing and balanced perfectly. No noise or vibrations at any speed.
 
I will third the recommendation for TAD. I bent my rear shaft a bit on a boulder and they rebuilt it with heavier wall tubing and balanced perfectly. No noise or vibrations at any speed.
Yes, found them on google. They fixed my u joint which was vibrating at highway speed.
 

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