PHH, Thermostat replacement & Radiator Flush complete.... (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Messages
330
Location
san jose, ca
howde all -

just more fodder for the "search" repair topics....lots of great write ups on PHH and Coolant Flush (see slee & e999)- just thought i'd give you all my $.02 - and maybe, just maybe help a fellow mudder...

first jack and stand your car (safety first) and pull off the front driver side tire -
also your car must be cool - you will get coolant all over - best not get scalded too...

Draining the coolant - Dont remove rad cap just yet !!!

Removing the skidplate is a must (4x 12mm bolts) - have your home depot bucket ready....

the radiator petcock is on the bottom driver side of rad - it is a plastic twist knob - access is tough w/out
bent needle nose pliers - i was worried about it snapping - so i drained the rad via the bottom rad hose.... use some big channel locks - pinch the clamp and wiggle the hose off - again be careful as fluid comes out like gang busters. Remember the rad cap - with it closed (thus limiting the ambient air pressure flow) the drain will be much more controlled....

the block drain (14 mm) - with your front drive tire removed - part the inner curtains - and just look for the plain / unattached brass bolt on the block - you cannot miss it - you will need lots of light - i needed two socket extenders (~24 inches) and you can easily loosen it in your open wheel well....

do not just take the bolt out....get a pan / catch (i used an old cat litter box ) ready - there is still a lot of fluid in the block - and that is a small bolt hole - so if you take the bolt out completely - you will get literally pissed on with a coolant stream - again simply loosed the bolt and allow the coolant to dribble out to your pan / catch - after a few minutes - now remove the rad cap - this will help with the air flow to push the last bit of coolant out.

all in all i got 2 gallons of dark coolant out - indeed there is another gallon still in the system - but you will flush this out later....

once all you fluid is drained that can be - tighten the bold back and (in my case) put the bottom rad hose back on. - if you did the petcock - re-tighten

you are now drained of coolant..... on a side note - the used coolant becomes a bit of a albatross -
at least here in the bay area - no one takes it - no one ! i literally have to call county hazardous waste and commit to an appoint in 3 weeks to then drop it off....


PHH -

with coolant all gone - on to Mr. PHH - simply google PHH and you will find several vendors selling pre-made kits... i went for the $20.00 samco option - but if you want to make your own with 2 inches of heater / silcone hose / napa / green hose etc - go ahead....

again check - slee - they have a good pic of the PHH and it's connecting metal pipe - the key will be to remove the metal pipes top bracket and the loosen lower bolt bracket. the top bracket is self evident - 12 mm bolt. keep in mind - the bracket does not come off the pipe - this is no worry it bends quite easily.

the bottom bolt - is another story and it as pesky is not more so than the phh itself....
to make room - i unbolted the heater assembly valve assembly from the firewall (2x 12mm bolts)
and took off the L shaped pipe from the metal tube - follow this metal tube down about 4 inches and you will find the pesky 2nd 12mm bolt (go down another 4 inches and there is the PHH itself)

so the "pesky" bolt does not need to be take out - just loosened - it too attaches to a bracket and all you need do is loosed the bolt to give yourself pivot room to replace the phh.

so with the heater assembly pushed to the side - L hose off - just root around in the darkness and find that bolt - you will need a tall 12mm socket as a standard socket is too short - but an extender bar on your wrench will be too long.... as a twerk - i used a 3/8 ratchet - but with a 1/4 adapter - then a 12mm 1/4 socket on the end - this was perfect size.....

from here - do what you gotta do to loosen than bolt - jiggle, jangle, tap, whack - mine came loose easily and from their i simply finger loosened it some 50 % - with the upper bracket bent - you will now have plenty of movement to get you phh on / off..

so to the phh itself....

back to the wheel well - split the curtains - bring plenty of light - look past your starter - up in the far right towards the block is your phh - cant find it - well just have a buddy jingle the metal hose you were just loosening and you cannot miss it....again see slee....

"undo" the cotter pin clamp - either via long screwdriver or via dremel - i did a dremel - word of caution for dremel - it is an extremely tight space - with lots of wires - careful not to loose control of your dremel going 20000 rpms with a cutter wheel in such a tight space - another tip - cut slowly and when the sparks stop - you stop - this means you are into rubber - any further and you will cut the metal pipe it is attached to...

now the second pinch clamp can be a beast - as always it is faced to 3 oclock so right up against the block - this is likely where you will suffer the most bruising and pain from contorting - in the end with some dishsoap and a screwdriver - i worked the clamp to 6 oclock and was able to pinch it off with a small channel lock...

now comes phh removal - again what ever method suits you - cut it - slice it with a box cutter and pull it out with needle nose - by any means necessary - it is goin in the trash anyways....

another pice of advice - try to be gentle - alas i wasnt and i busted my #1 knock sensor (quite common gaffe) - it is no biggee other than being $170 to replace - but just be careful and patient- as you try to get the phh off - one slip and there is potential for colletral damage.

hazaa....phh should now be off and gone - if you have gone with the samco kit - with constant pressure clamps - simply lube up and insert on - i did block first then tube - as it then aligns the proper position for the metal tube (remember you likely bent up the top bracket) - now just get you 1/4" 8 mm socket and tighten them clamps....

then go back up top - hand tighten the lower bolt to the metal pipe - reattach the L tube - and the heater assembly to the firewall and the upper bolt -

phh is now basically done !!!

next i tackled the thermostat - i had to remove the front heat shield (3 12mm blots)
and then the 3 - 12mm nuts that hold it in (See CO - 007)

dont forget to purchase a gasket too - oddly my old valve had no jingle valve - anyways not sure on its purpose but (per CO - 010) it should be oriented +/- 15% from top center (between 11 & 1 oclock)

easy breezy - 1/2 banana job....

on the the flushing....

so i purchased the prestone kit and indeed although much debated i did mount the tee in the to s-shape heater hose (see e9999 writeup). the yellow piece that inserts into the rad itself is useless as it doesn't seal when you turn on the water pressure - so i removed the top large rad hose - connected it to some pvc pipe i had and then to my home depot bucket -

i then used a garden hose - a basic hose gun (with thread tip) and then another 4 foot light weight hose to connect to the hose tip - and then at the end of that hose - connected the prestone adapter - then that adapter connects to the prestone tee i spliced in (black to black). using the light hose on the tip of the hose gun, makes it so you can be by your drain bucket and still control the flow of flusing water....start out slow - oh before i forget - right before you being you flush turn on (not over) the car and all heaters to high - dont know if necessary - but i left the keys in and on ACC during my whole flush...

all in all it took two minutes till the water was clear - thus around another 2+ gallons of dilute coolant i have to yet dispose.... so once it ran clear - i stopped and emptied the bucket.

now i am pretty certain my car is old fluid free....but to be sure - i simply flushed it some more with the garden hose - to see if any gunk or sludge came out - none did and as this water was clear as can be - i dumped it in the toilet.

now there is a big debate over tap water and minerals - i have softened water - but some will say to now flush the car with several gallons of distilled water - filling it up, then running the car for 10 mins to open the thermostat - then draining it all - then repeating 2-3x - this would indeed be a full weekend job - having to let the car cool down and do over....alas i opted to not go said route....

so with my car hose flushed - back to the lower rad hose to drain and the block drain - to at least drain all the tap water left over in my flush.... with the lower pipe off - i simply used my hose to flush the rad directly - obviously all the spill off goes to the lower hose and into my catch bucket....

now with it all drained once again - close it all back up and time to refill the rad.

2 gals of Red Toytota coolant (~$35.00 per at Amazon) and 2 gals of distressed (~$.95 each).

pour into the rad - 1 gal of coolant - then 1 gal of distilled (8 quarts)

now take the empty distllted bottle - fill that 1/2 up with the other bottle of coolant -
then take you other bottle of full distilled and top off.....

now you have 4 quarts of 50/50. - pour this into your rad - iagain removed the top rad hose and poured some down - just to make sure nothing was dry....

personally - likely because there was still hose water in my system - i stopped at 3/4.
with the rad cap off - i then started the engine...waited for burps / sputters (none) and closely watched the level in the rad.....after ~10 minutes the level appeared stable and i put the last bit of 50/50 in the overflow reservoir.....rad cap back on too...

as a hack - placed some paper towels under my new phh to check back for overnight leaks.

came back the next day - towels clean thus no leaks - coolant level in the rad was fine, but reservoir was empty - so simply filled it up to the line.

confident all was well - put my tire back on and took it for a local spin - it was at this time my CEL came on as indeed i had jacked my knock sensor - but otherwise great diy service - and although i got drenched in coolant - arms beat up, scratched, and bruised like all hell, and i still have 4 gals of coolant to deal with - twas not a super hard job(s) at all -


anyways - hope this at least helps one person out there - so if you are having any doubts -
if i could do it - you absolutely can too....



Bf

205k and going strong....
 

94SRUNNER

GOLD Star
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
3,831
Location
Dayton, OH
^^^Great point. Always us distilled water when refilling the coolant system, otherwise deposits can take over.
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2014
Messages
179
Location
Columbia, SC
howde all -

just more fodder for the "search" repair topics....lots of great write ups on PHH and Coolant Flush (see slee & e999)- just thought i'd give you all my $.02 - and maybe, just maybe help a fellow mudder...

first jack and stand your car (safety first) and pull off the front driver side tire -
also your car must be cool - you will get coolant all over - best not get scalded too...

Draining the coolant - Dont remove rad cap just yet !!!

Removing the skidplate is a must (4x 12mm bolts) - have your home depot bucket ready....

the radiator petcock is on the bottom driver side of rad - it is a plastic twist knob - access is tough w/out
bent needle nose pliers - i was worried about it snapping - so i drained the rad via the bottom rad hose.... use some big channel locks - pinch the clamp and wiggle the hose off - again be careful as fluid comes out like gang busters. Remember the rad cap - with it closed (thus limiting the ambient air pressure flow) the drain will be much more controlled....

the block drain (14 mm) - with your front drive tire removed - part the inner curtains - and just look for the plain / unattached brass bolt on the block - you cannot miss it - you will need lots of light - i needed two socket extenders (~24 inches) and you can easily loosen it in your open wheel well....

do not just take the bolt out....get a pan / catch (i used an old cat litter box ) ready - there is still a lot of fluid in the block - and that is a small bolt hole - so if you take the bolt out completely - you will get literally pissed on with a coolant stream - again simply loosed the bolt and allow the coolant to dribble out to your pan / catch - after a few minutes - now remove the rad cap - this will help with the air flow to push the last bit of coolant out.

all in all i got 2 gallons of dark coolant out - indeed there is another gallon still in the system - but you will flush this out later....

once all you fluid is drained that can be - tighten the bold back and (in my case) put the bottom rad hose back on. - if you did the petcock - re-tighten

you are now drained of coolant..... on a side note - the used coolant becomes a bit of a albatross -
at least here in the bay area - no one takes it - no one ! i literally have to call county hazardous waste and commit to an appoint in 3 weeks to then drop it off....


PHH -

with coolant all gone - on to Mr. PHH - simply google PHH and you will find several vendors selling pre-made kits... i went for the $20.00 samco option - but if you want to make your own with 2 inches of heater / silcone hose / napa / green hose etc - go ahead....

again check - slee - they have a good pic of the PHH and it's connecting metal pipe - the key will be to remove the metal pipes top bracket and the loosen lower bolt bracket. the top bracket is self evident - 12 mm bolt. keep in mind - the bracket does not come off the pipe - this is no worry it bends quite easily.

the bottom bolt - is another story and it as pesky is not more so than the phh itself....
to make room - i unbolted the heater assembly valve assembly from the firewall (2x 12mm bolts)
and took off the L shaped pipe from the metal tube - follow this metal tube down about 4 inches and you will find the pesky 2nd 12mm bolt (go down another 4 inches and there is the PHH itself)

so the "pesky" bolt does not need to be take out - just loosened - it too attaches to a bracket and all you need do is loosed the bolt to give yourself pivot room to replace the phh.

so with the heater assembly pushed to the side - L hose off - just root around in the darkness and find that bolt - you will need a tall 12mm socket as a standard socket is too short - but an extender bar on your wrench will be too long.... as a twerk - i used a 3/8 ratchet - but with a 1/4 adapter - then a 12mm 1/4 socket on the end - this was perfect size.....

from here - do what you gotta do to loosen than bolt - jiggle, jangle, tap, whack - mine came loose easily and from their i simply finger loosened it some 50 % - with the upper bracket bent - you will now have plenty of movement to get you phh on / off..

so to the phh itself....

back to the wheel well - split the curtains - bring plenty of light - look past your starter - up in the far right towards the block is your phh - cant find it - well just have a buddy jingle the metal hose you were just loosening and you cannot miss it....again see slee....

"undo" the cotter pin clamp - either via long screwdriver or via dremel - i did a dremel - word of caution for dremel - it is an extremely tight space - with lots of wires - careful not to loose control of your dremel going 20000 rpms with a cutter wheel in such a tight space - another tip - cut slowly and when the sparks stop - you stop - this means you are into rubber - any further and you will cut the metal pipe it is attached to...

now the second pinch clamp can be a beast - as always it is faced to 3 oclock so right up against the block - this is likely where you will suffer the most bruising and pain from contorting - in the end with some dishsoap and a screwdriver - i worked the clamp to 6 oclock and was able to pinch it off with a small channel lock...

now comes phh removal - again what ever method suits you - cut it - slice it with a box cutter and pull it out with needle nose - by any means necessary - it is goin in the trash anyways....

another pice of advice - try to be gentle - alas i wasnt and i busted my #1 knock sensor (quite common gaffe) - it is no biggee other than being $170 to replace - but just be careful and patient- as you try to get the phh off - one slip and there is potential for colletral damage.

hazaa....phh should now be off and gone - if you have gone with the samco kit - with constant pressure clamps - simply lube up and insert on - i did block first then tube - as it then aligns the proper position for the metal tube (remember you likely bent up the top bracket) - now just get you 1/4" 8 mm socket and tighten them clamps....

then go back up top - hand tighten the lower bolt to the metal pipe - reattach the L tube - and the heater assembly to the firewall and the upper bolt -

phh is now basically done !!!

next i tackled the thermostat - i had to remove the front heat shield (3 12mm blots)
and then the 3 - 12mm nuts that hold it in (See CO - 007)

dont forget to purchase a gasket too - oddly my old valve had no jingle valve - anyways not sure on its purpose but (per CO - 010) it should be oriented +/- 15% from top center (between 11 & 1 oclock)

easy breezy - 1/2 banana job....

on the the flushing....

so i purchased the prestone kit and indeed although much debated i did mount the tee in the to s-shape heater hose (see e9999 writeup). the yellow piece that inserts into the rad itself is useless as it doesn't seal when you turn on the water pressure - so i removed the top large rad hose - connected it to some pvc pipe i had and then to my home depot bucket -

i then used a garden hose - a basic hose gun (with thread tip) and then another 4 foot light weight hose to connect to the hose tip - and then at the end of that hose - connected the prestone adapter - then that adapter connects to the prestone tee i spliced in (black to black). using the light hose on the tip of the hose gun, makes it so you can be by your drain bucket and still control the flow of flusing water....start out slow - oh before i forget - right before you being you flush turn on (not over) the car and all heaters to high - dont know if necessary - but i left the keys in and on ACC during my whole flush...

all in all it took two minutes till the water was clear - thus around another 2+ gallons of dilute coolant i have to yet dispose.... so once it ran clear - i stopped and emptied the bucket.

now i am pretty certain my car is old fluid free....but to be sure - i simply flushed it some more with the garden hose - to see if any gunk or sludge came out - none did and as this water was clear as can be - i dumped it in the toilet.

now there is a big debate over tap water and minerals - i have softened water - but some will say to now flush the car with several gallons of distilled water - filling it up, then running the car for 10 mins to open the thermostat - then draining it all - then repeating 2-3x - this would indeed be a full weekend job - having to let the car cool down and do over....alas i opted to not go said route....

so with my car hose flushed - back to the lower rad hose to drain and the block drain - to at least drain all the tap water left over in my flush.... with the lower pipe off - i simply used my hose to flush the rad directly - obviously all the spill off goes to the lower hose and into my catch bucket....

now with it all drained once again - close it all back up and time to refill the rad.

2 gals of Red Toytota coolant (~$35.00 per at Amazon) and 2 gals of distressed (~$.95 each).

pour into the rad - 1 gal of coolant - then 1 gal of distilled (8 quarts)

now take the empty distllted bottle - fill that 1/2 up with the other bottle of coolant -
then take you other bottle of full distilled and top off.....

now you have 4 quarts of 50/50. - pour this into your rad - iagain removed the top rad hose and poured some down - just to make sure nothing was dry....

personally - likely because there was still hose water in my system - i stopped at 3/4.
with the rad cap off - i then started the engine...waited for burps / sputters (none) and closely watched the level in the rad.....after ~10 minutes the level appeared stable and i put the last bit of 50/50 in the overflow reservoir.....rad cap back on too...

as a hack - placed some paper towels under my new phh to check back for overnight leaks.

came back the next day - towels clean thus no leaks - coolant level in the rad was fine, but reservoir was empty - so simply filled it up to the line.

confident all was well - put my tire back on and took it for a local spin - it was at this time my CEL came on as indeed i had jacked my knock sensor - but otherwise great diy service - and although i got drenched in coolant - arms beat up, scratched, and bruised like all hell, and i still have 4 gals of coolant to deal with - twas not a super hard job(s) at all -


anyways - hope this at least helps one person out there - so if you are having any doubts -
if i could do it - you absolutely can too....



Bf

205k and going strong....

Getting ready to clean and flush system on a 99 LC with 240k miles. Appreciated the write up but got me wondering - is the PHH on the 100 series also? Thanks!
 

Hornd

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
2,599
Location
Toledo, OH
Great write up and another step in base lining. I will be doing this same.
The argument for distilled water can be disputed, but the cost cant. Its like $1 per gallon and these trucks are not exactly econo boxes (OK, they are boxes).
I use distilled now, but my dad did 100 of flushes and fills and never did and I don't ever remember a failure. The important part is that you change your coolant.
 

inkpot

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 30, 2003
Messages
13,686
Location
All over Arizona
I have also stayed away RO water. It is so clean/pure that it is hungry. Instead of leaving deposits, it will absorb any soft metals it contacts. Some stainless steels are highly resistant to this process. John
 

nuclearlemon

not an addict
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Messages
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windy wyoming
read again because i'm doing a flush right now. not a full weekend job. i'm on my fourth and final flush and i just started a couple hours ago. i'm just draining at the radiator, not the block for most of them. my goal is to completely remove a green/red mix until it's clear water, then full drain and antifreeze distilled water mix (i'm making my own distilled water now...adds moisture in my dry climate and a little heat since it's a bit chilly today). i will be using all new antifreeze, not your "distressed", which i am guessing is used.

each time i've gotten the engine to just over 175 degrees, with the cap fully installed and haven't burned myself, so you might give a flush a shot.
 

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