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PHH material

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by hobbes, Jan 28, 2004.

  1. hobbes

    hobbes SILVER Star

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    I'm going to try to replace the PHH hose either this weekend or next. At the auto parts store, I had a discussion with the parts counter guy about the varying quality of hose. I also told him I need a hose for a high vibration/heat/anti-freeze/dripping oil/grease location that was a PITA to get to so I wanted to minimize the number of times doing the job over the life of the vehicle. He recommended going to a marine supply store as their hoses are double reinforced (automotive tends to be single if you look at a cross sectional view). Today I went and picked up a foot of hose from the local marine supply shop ($3) and had the same discussion there. He thought the hose he had would be good for the job. You can see the second reinforcement layer when looking at the cross-section. It is slightly thicker, which may make the install harder. I'll let the board know how it goes. (Oh, and someone stop me if this sounds like a bad idea)
     
  2. Eduardo96FZJ80

    Eduardo96FZJ80

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    If I recall correctly, the recomended hose was "silicone hose with lined clamps"
     
  3. Wayne

    Wayne Bought by His blood, kept by His power

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    That is correct......

    Wayne S :cheers:
     
  4. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Yup,

    5/8 silicone cop car type hose and lined clamps are a must to prevent damage to the hose. The double reinforced marine hose will be darm tough to fit into that small space. Landtank has an excelent PHH writeup right here:

    http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_heater_hose.htm
     
  5. semlin

    semlin discouraged user

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    try a kenworth dealer or similar heavy truck place and get heavy duty silicone line. Alternately, try a place that deals with hydraulic pumps and lines. Either way the price will be bearable (much better than NAPA) and they can sell you the silicone lined clamps too. ET-10 tridon clamps are the right sized lined clamps for silicone. You are even better to get constant tension clamps if you can find any small enough to fit the hose and the place they have to fit on the truck.
     
  6. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    As a data point, I replaced my PHH with green NAPA silicone. I clamped the end against the block with a constant tension orignal clamp from one of the other heater hoses (I was in the process of replacing them all), and the outboard end with a conventional hose clamp. The conventional clamp indeed did weep a bit months later, and I had to get back up there and reposition and tighten it. Will let you know if it holds, but I think the constant tension clamp is a good idea as the silicon seemed to detension itself by the silicone rubber "flowing" out from under the clamp.

    I also bought a pair of the heat shrink clamps by 3M to use with this size silicone hose. I did not use them at all as I realized they have to be cut off and are made of a very tough material. I'd have been cursing myself 10 year from now as I tried to get a cutting tool way back in there.

    DougM
     
  7. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    You guys are all nuts.....standard line, standard clamps :flipoff2:
     
  8. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    I'm also in the minority who think that the PHH is not really that difficult. Once in there, it took me about 30 minutes to loosen the upper screw, remove the old piece, and install a new one using the revised "slide it onto the pipe" method.

    There are a pair of much harder to access "true" PHH's between the valve cover and firewall lurking.

    DougM
     
  9. hobbes

    hobbes SILVER Star

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    Well, as I see it the first PHH has lasted about 7 years and 90k on my '97. If my "marine grade" hose lasts only 25% longer, that would be a total of...uh...about...um...well past my head gasket (according to the poll)! 8)

    (Yes, I just sealed my fate...) :D
     
  10. hobbes

    hobbes SILVER Star

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    For the archives (post install notes):

    I think the marine grade hose would be a good way to go IF the metal line can be removed (ie engine pull). CDan's hunch was correct. I hadn't done it before, but once I got into the job it took about 5 seconds to see more flex was required than the marine hose would allow. I wound up going with just the standard hose.

    In the end, I think "pesky" was a good word. The job will get you one way or another. I saw lots of talk on the rear clamp bolt. I had almost no trouble with that. I used a Snap-On flex head rachet. My stroke of luck was the 12mm socket. My "good" sockets were just a bit too short. I had an old cheapo in the bottom of the tool box that was the perfect length. That whole part of the job then became a non-event. Getting the hose on was another story all together. That was an event (not suitable for young ears)....