PHH Done (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 23, 2006
Threads
4
Messages
31
Location
Kirkland, WA
Did the Phh today, along with a radiator and backflush of heater cores.

I've been cycling fresh de-ionized water through the system over the last two weeks to clean out the sludge prior to the final flush by draining the radiator and overflow and refilling. Every few days I'd repeat I'd find a layer of sludge at the bottom of the overflow. I've also replaced the thermostat with a new toyota (new gasket as well), and the black fan clutch with a new blue toyota. I now get the "roar" at startup.

Today I performed the following.
  • Removed block and radiator plugs.
  • Flushed the radiator with garden hose.
  • Turned the key to on and set the temp to hot, turned key off.
  • Backflushed the heater cores using an eight foot section of 3/8" fuel line jammed one end in the garden hose and the other s-shaped heater hose. Used the garden hose end to regulate pressure based on how hard it was jammed in.
  • Reinstalled drain plugs.
  • Filled system with garden hose.
  • Ran vehicle for several minutes with the radiator cap off topping off as needed. A/C on full to get the thermostat open sooner and longer and heat on full to flush heater core (not sure if heat is just counteracting the A/C).
  • Removed block and radiator plugs again.
  • Flushed the radiator again.
  • Backflushed the heater cores again.
  • Filled system with 3 gallons of distilled water and 16oz of water wetter equivalent.
I'm going to keep tabs on the water cleanliness for a week before I drain and refill with 50/50 toyota red, if needed I'll flush again until it is clean.

In the middle of my flush I also did the PHH. I had purchased 6 feet (accidently ordered two sections of 3 foot) of silicone hose and 6 breeze connectors (the other four are for the straight heater core hoses above number 6) a few months ago in preparation. I was able to remove and reinstall the phh without removing anything other than the tire due to my small hands.
  • Jacked up the left driver side and removed the wheel.
  • I unwound the first clamp with a thin flathead and then cut it off with cutting pliers.
  • Used a knife to cut the hose diagonally lengthwise.
  • Used a pair of needle nose to rip the hose off in pieces.
  • Used a pair of needle nose to rotate and slide the other clamp onto the bare pipe.
  • Cut the remaining hose and ripped it apart with needle nose.
  • Slid the clamp out between the two sections of pipe.
  • I removed the top bolt on the block that holds the pipe in place.
  • Tried to loosen the rear pipe bolt without success.
  • Cut a 60mm length of hose using a fresh blade and cleaned up the cut so it was as smooth as possible with no hanging pieces.
  • Tried to loosen the rear pipe bolt without success.
  • Slid the new clamps up the pipe out of the way (next time I'll tape them there as they kept sliding down).
  • Tried to loosen the rear pipe bolt without success.
  • Soap and watered up the inside of the phh, wiped off the outside.
  • Tried to slide it onto the block pipe, too much of an angle due to other pipe and too much soap let it slip right off.
  • Tried to loosen the rear pipe bolt without success.
  • Drank a beer
  • Tried to loosen the rear pipe bolt without success.
  • Researched how to remove the phh, found out about the gearwrench, contemplated going to the store, but didn't.
  • Went back out and used less soap and forced it onto the block side.
  • After much fighting finally used a thin flathead to work/pull the hose around the pipe. Tore up the nice clean hose end a little on the end of the pipe as I worked it around, not too bad.
  • Tightened the upper block pipe bolt.
  • Used a big flathead and leveraged against the firewall to push the hose the rest of the way.
  • Tightened the clamps with a small 8mm box end wrench.
  • Checked for leaks.
 
Nice work!
 
Gumby said:
You should NOT run straight water for any amount of time. It will corrode the inside of the engine and not lubricate the water pump at all.


Not to mention the micro-boiling that can occur on the outside of cylinder walls...this can really affect the metals in a nasty negative way. HTH.
 
Thanks, didn't know that.

So is it fine now that there is water wetter in there or do I need to drain and fill with coolant while I keep tabs on the cleanliness as it runs through over the next week.
 
Aharon said:
Thanks, didn't know that.

So is it fine now that there is water wetter in there or do I need to drain and fill with coolant while I keep tabs on the cleanliness as it runs through over the next week.

You should be fine with water and water wetter.

I agree that it is not good to run water only, but when done for a short period just to flush you are ok.

How many miles did you run in that two week period with only water in it? Actually, you had some coolant in there for the first several iterations...
 
<500 miles

You are right in that there was residual coolant since I didn't drain the block until yesterday. How much coolant is required to prevent the micro-boiling and to properly lubricate the water pump?
 
So it seems that rear pipe bolt created some stress for you? :D

Agree with others that you've let the pendulum swing a little too far into the "flush with water" direction. A good flush followed by a fill with 50/50 is all that is needed. The most important thing is to repeat annually or no more than 2 years.

-B-
 
Next time I'll post before I attempt to do something just to double check. Thanks to everyone for the input. I had no idea. I thought I was just being thorough.
 
So what's the theoretical damage caused at this point long term. Granted I've probably shortened the life of the water pump, what else?
 
500 miles is about 10X what I've felt comfortable doing myself...strickly non-scientific fwiw.
 

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