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Pertronix -

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by tucker74, Jul 22, 2005.

  1. tucker74

    tucker74 Moderator

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    So I went and bought some new stuff and now I need a little help getting it strait in my head before I install. I bought a Pertronix points-eliminator, flame-thrower coil, and non-US distributor for my '73 F155.

    1) Where can I draw vacuum for the advance on the dist. if my carb. isn't ported? If the answer is what I think it might be, is it even worth it to go with this dist. over the stock vacuum retard?

    2) This setup eliminates the stock ballast resistor right? Just hook up the +/- directly on the flame-thrower coil?

    3) Will my stock wires work with the non-US dist. - I've got the used wires that came with it (used), but mine are brand new.

    Other than that, does anyone whose done this have any tips ... I know to watch for the oil pump lining up.

    Thanks,
    Tucker
     
  2. bsilva132

    bsilva132

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    1-not sure, but there was a thread not long ago about adding the port for vac advance
    2- yes, no balast resister if using the flamethrower coil
    3- yes

    I am running this set up and it works very well.

    -Brian
     
  3. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    The vac advance port on a non-US carb is on the throttle body, beside where the idle mix screw is threaded into the throttle body.

    Yes, follow the instructions.

    Yes, the only significant difference is the advance curve. The cap rotor & wires are the same.
     
  4. jikser

    jikser

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    BTW FJ40Jim can port a stock carb if yours doesn't have one already. I think Mark's offroad can as well. http://www.marksoffroad.net I have yet to do the carb. Just got the dizzy.

    Les
     
  5. tucker74

    tucker74 Moderator

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    Mark rebuilt the carb that's on it a couple of months back ... but I didn't have him port it :doh: Anyone have any luck pulling the vacuum from elsewhere?

    Tucker
     
  6. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    There is no elsewhere. Ported vac comes from the ported vac fitting. :crybaby:
     
  7. tucker74

    tucker74 Moderator

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    Ok - couple more questions now that I've been playing with it (w/o any luck!) -

    1) My stock coil had a black/yellow wire going from harness to resistor, black coming off resistor to (+), another black/yellow out of harness to (+), and a solid black from harness to (-). I connected both black/yellows along with the red from Pertronix to (+) and black from harness and Pertronix to (-). Does this sound right?

    2) Since this is a rebuild and I didn't know about the timing I just pulled the old dist, put engine to TDC and rotor seated in oil pump at about the #4 spark plug. This looks right except I wasn’t sure which way to orient the dist (different than the '73) so I put the diaphragm on the outside (away from engine) with the octane adjustor towards the rear. Does any of this sound right?

    I briefly tried to started before it started pouring rain w/o any luck - need to get the little lady to help me check the spark at different points. Just wanted to double check what I did do ....

    Thanks,
    Tucker
     
  8. jikser

    jikser

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    Here's what I did.
    1. Used my stock coil (afraid I'm not much help determining if your coil is hooked up right) but the red went to +, the black went to - on the coil just like you said.
    2. Brought the engine to TDC, lined the ball up on the flywheel and #1 at the top of the stroke.
    3. Turned the oil pump shaft with a long screw driver so when the dizzy fully seated it rotated into alignment with #1 plug wire.
    4. Tried to start.
    5. Wouldn't start, bumped engine till it was TDC but rotor was 180 deg. from #1.
    6. Went back to step 3, and everything has worked since.

    Distributor oriented just like you described. My first stab was at TDC of the exhaust stroke. When I restabbed 180 out it worked great. You mention the rotor being aimed at the #4 plug wire at TDC which could be your problem, should be #1 unless I'm mistaken.

    Les
     
  9. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    This will work, but you only need the black/yellow wire that is hot in the ign key on position. The other B/Y wire comes off of the starter solenoid. It is not needed and could cause problems. Better to disconnect both ends.


    You have a 50-50 chance of being lucky, if you didn't make sure that it was TDC for #1 and not #6. (Two crank revs per cycle in a 4 stroke engine). You set the timing by rotating the distributor body, so you need enough rotation to get it timed or you will have to yank it, turn it a tooth and reinstall it. If you are 180 degrees off, the easy thing is to just change the plug wires by 180 degrees to match.
     
  10. tucker74

    tucker74 Moderator

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    Thanks guys - I'll go out and try the method Les did tonight, should I line it up on the BB or line? I'll make sure just hook up just the ignition hot to the coil as well -

    Tucker

    BTW - is it ok to just leave the green/yellow wire that was connected to the stud on the old dist disconnected?
     
  11. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    When it is running, time it to the BB, which is 7 degrees BTDC. Set the engine on the BB, rotate the distributor body ~20 degrees CW, remove the distributor center cap wire and place it 1/4 inch from the block. Turn the key on and slowly rotate the dist CCW until it sparks. That will static time it close enoudh that it will start and run.

    I am not familiar with any stock green/yellow wire at the distributor. Where does it go?
     
  12. tucker74

    tucker74 Moderator

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    I'm not sure - my coil had an external condenser and another green/yellow wire was connected to the same stud on the outside of the housing. Guess I should track it down ....

    Tucker
     
  13. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    If it is connected to the distributor housing it is some kind of ground wire. The stock Toyota ground color code is white with black stripe.