Pertronix install questions (1 Viewer)

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Buxton, ME
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Does anyone have a suggestion on how to use the supplied grommet to seal the distributor? This is in a 1976 FJ40. I think it is a stock distributor. 19100-61020
 
My distributor , the grommet fit right in to that slot. Mine is a 1969. Distributor is from Specter off road.
 
Leave in place (the wire) a ground, remove other part. The black "donut/magnet" will not fit with it on. I think the kit includes a new small wire.
 
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The yellow wire is for grounding the points. The other piece that contacts the cam is the points damper, obviously not needed if you don't have points.
 
Now that I have the grommet in, I went to put the magnet sleeve and the rotor on and they seem really loose. Directions say you may need to push magnet sleeve on, but mine just dropped on. The rotor is very loose too. Getting a new one today. Are there any other reasons it would be so loose?
 
The yellow wire is for grounding the points. The other piece that contacts the cam is the points damper, obviously not needed if you don't have points.
Do you have a schematic of how it should be wired? I am under the impression that with the Pertronix, I don't need the igniter. Do I still need a ballast resistor? If I don't need these, how does the wiring look? I am trying to get a new to me cruiser back up and running, and nothing is connected or marked very well, so I am working off the schematic I found on Coolerman's links: http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/schematics/FJ40/1976FJ40/1976_Toyota_LC_FJ40.pdf
 
Now that I have the grommet in, I went to put the magnet sleeve and the rotor on and they seem really loose. Directions say you may need to push magnet sleeve on, but mine just dropped on. The rotor is very loose too. Getting a new one today. Are there any other reasons it would be so loose?

Maybe the distributor is really worn out.
 
 
You don't use the igniter. The Pertronix "Ignitor" replaces it.
There's different views on the resistor. My view is, If it's got a resistor (1.5 ohm) it will be mated with a 1.5 ohm coil. (total 3 ohms) A 3 ohm coil gets no resistor. The whole purpose of the resistor with a lower ohm coil is so the resistor can be bypassed when cranking to compensate for the voltage drop and also give it boost since it's only momentary. To remove the resistor from a 1.5 ohm coil, the coil will be at a higher continuous voltage than it was designed for.
If your starter has the extra wire for the bypass and it's functional, I'd keep the resistor. If you don't have the bypass wire on the starter which often happens with a starter replace, I'd ditch the resistor and coil and get a 3 ohm coil.

Petronix-5.jpg
 

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