Pertronix has caused a problem???? HELP??

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My '67 FJ40 had some "other" Toyota dizzy in it that seemed to work fine, but, of course, was not "correct" for a restoration. I replaced it with a good and proper dizzy with the Pertronix installed by me. It runs, and performs VERY well at higher RPMs, but hesitates upon acceleration from idle. It also takes a little longer to start SOMETIMES. I have adjusted the timing as I always do, and that does not seem to make ANY difference. It hesitates at any dizzy position. What is wrong??? What do I need to do to correct this?? :bang: Do I need to re-adjust the air fuel mixture because there is a cleaner/faster burn now??

Also, the instructions for the Pertronix did not mention that there was an extra "little wire", screw, and star washer that were included in the kit. I used the gray matter and "assumed" that the screw went into the only threaded hole that was left in the adapter plate, and that the wire went from that point to the housing side where the cap clip mounts and the condenser used to mount. It appeared to be a ground for the center plate, but it was NOT referenced in the instructions. Was this correct?? :meh:

HELP PLEASE
 

Nomis

 
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Sounds like you installed it correctly in the dizzy. Are you still running a ballast resistor or no? Also, make sure the advance cam plate moves freely and is not hung up by one of the screws.
 

inkpot

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Howdy! Did the first dizzy have vacuum advance/retard? Did you block off that vacuum supply on the carb/intake? A Petronix is not "correct" for a restoration either, so what was wrong with the first one? John
 
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Sounds like you installed it correctly in the dizzy. Are you still running a ballast resistor or no? Also, make sure the advance cam plate moves freely and is not hung up by one of the screws.
The screws went in very nicely and nothing is "hanging up". The cam plate moves freely. I do note that if I grab the round disc (Vaccuum diaphram housing) on the dizzy, it wobbles a bit, like it needs some new bushing or something???

I did this "conversion" last night and it seems to be consistently taking longer to start than before. Also, mine did not have a balast resistor on it originally, and the coil actually says on it that "NO BALLAST RESISTOR SHOULD BE USED", or something like that.
 
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Howdy! Did the first dizzy have vacuum advance/retard? Did you block off that vacuum supply on the carb/intake? A Petronix is not "correct" for a restoration either, so what was wrong with the first one? John
Howdy back! I did have vaccuum advance on the "other" dizzy, and kept the same setup. I dont know what dizzy it was, but it had the vaccuum diaphram on the opposite side as the correct one (left side if looking down into the engine compartment), had an integral nipple that came out of the diaphram housing, and had no plactic cover/device on the opposite side to adjust advance like the correct one does.

I KNOW that Pertronix is not correct for a perfect restoration, but I wanted to get extra reliability, consistent spark, better high RPM performance, easier starts, and less worry about it getting wet and not working. I am not doing a "100 point" restoration, but want to keep most things original. Obviously, the stainless hardware is not "correct", but I HATE rust, and love the idea of stainless. I dont think that any bolt/nut/hardware should EVER be painted, as it is designed to be wrenched upon and would ruin the paint everytime it was manipulated. Also, certain parts are not made anymore, so I cant keep EVERYTHING exactly as original.

I am starting to regret changing to Pertronix, unless someone can help me with this issue. My gut tells me that because the spark should be more "true", the fuel is burning faster/more efficiently, and that, therefore, the carb mixture needs to be adjusted to compensate for a lack of fuel now? I will mess with the air/fuel mixture to see if it helps, but my "other" gut tells me that it is not a fuel issue, because of the harder starting.

HMMMMMMMMMMMMM.
 

Nomis

 
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When you adjusted the timing - did you do it "by ear" or using a timing light? You have a '67, so you wouldn't have an idle solenoid. . . so it can't be that. Other than the pertronix and the coil - was anything else touched - carb, valves adjusted, etc.
 
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Hi I just installed the pertronix as well and noticed that it hesitates when first accelerating. That little wire and screw and star washer are if you are still using your old coil according to the instructions I have. It says that it is for the ballast resistor. I didn't see anything about a ground in the instructions.
My '67 FJ40 had some "other" Toyota dizzy in it that seemed to work fine, but, of course, was not "correct" for a restoration. I replaced it with a good and proper dizzy with the Pertronix installed by me. It runs, and performs VERY well at higher RPMs, but hesitates upon acceleration from idle. It also takes a little longer to start SOMETIMES. I have adjusted the timing as I always do, and that does not seem to make ANY difference. It hesitates at any dizzy position. What is wrong??? What do I need to do to correct this?? :bang: Do I need to re-adjust the air fuel mixture because there is a cleaner/faster burn now??

Also, the instructions for the Pertronix did not mention that there was an extra "little wire", screw, and star washer that were included in the kit. I used the gray matter and "assumed" that the screw went into the only threaded hole that was left in the adapter plate, and that the wire went from that point to the housing side where the cap clip mounts and the condenser used to mount. It appeared to be a ground for the center plate, but it was NOT referenced in the instructions. Was this correct?? :meh:

HELP PLEASE
 
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When you adjusted the timing - did you do it "by ear" or using a timing light? You have a '67, so you wouldn't have an idle solenoid. . . so it can't be that. Other than the pertronix and the coil - was anything else touched - carb, valves adjusted, etc.
I did not use a timing light, and did not touch anything else. It appears that I am not the only person with this issue. I dont know if that makes me feel any better. I usually time by ear and it works great, as I had done it before this switch and it was fine. remember, it hesitates on acceleration from idle at any position of the dizzy. Also, I tried adjusting the air/fuel mixture and it made no difference. poop. Anything else??
 
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Hi I just installed the pertronix as well and noticed that it hesitates when first accelerating. That little wire and screw and star washer are if you are still using your old coil according to the instructions I have. It says that it is for the ballast resistor. I didn't see anything about a ground in the instructions.
Hmmmm. Ballast resitor must have been used in the later years? or earlier years?? Also, what was that "other" hole in the cam plate that was not used then? The "other" screw fit perfectly in that threaded hole. I would be more than happy to take out the little wire and washer and screw, but I am not sure that it is affecting anything. Did you fix your problem or are you just going to live with it????????
 

D'Animal

Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers
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When I installed mine in my 1976 it did the same thing. I took it back and they told me I had to install the 1.5 ohm coil. I did and the problem went away.

I got mine from a TMH dealer (Toyota Material Fork Lift). They run 2F's in some of the Toyota Fork Lifts.

That was before I found out that I could have bought the correct set up from Mark at Marks Offroad to begin with.
 
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When I installed mine in my 1976 it did the same thing. I took it back and they told me I had to install the 1.5 ohm coil. I did and the problem went away.

I got mine from a TMH dealer (Toyota Material Fork Lift). They run 2F's in some of the Toyota Fork Lifts.

That was before I found out that I could have bought the correct set up from Mark at Marks Offroad to begin with.
Are the flamethrower coils all 1.5 ohm? I bought one of them as well and installed it.
 
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Also, I have read Mark's (Mark's Offroad) other posts on Pertronix and he says that no resistor is EVER required. He says that he NEVER uses a resistor, without an problems, which would indicate to me that coil resistance has NOTHING to do with it. It seems to have fixed your issue, D'Animal, and giving you credit for being a knowledgeable and honest Toyotian, I am thoroughly confused now. I have a call in to Mark.
 
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Did the problem go away or no?
No the problem has not gone away however it did help me to choke the throttle more. I think that it may just be a low idle problem in my case. I am going to adjust things on the carb end to see if it helps.
 
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No the problem has not gone away however it did help me to choke the throttle more. I think that it may just be a low idle problem in my case. I am going to adjust things on the carb end to see if it helps.
Good luck with carb adjustments. It didnt do jack for me. I guess that this is what I get for being an "original" purist and trying to "get away" with some new technlogy. My problems are probably some sick joke by the powers that be to punish me for going against my ideals. HAHA! :mad:
 
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What is the input voltage to the pertronix?

can you stick a meter on + terminal of the coil and the + feed to the pertronix and turn the key on.
my 70 has a resistor coil. ie the resistor is built into the coil.
so mine was cake 12v to everything.

if you are getting 6v to the + lead to the pertronix you have a resistor in the circuit that should stay for the coil (unless you buy a coil with internal resistor) And 12v needs to be supplied to the pertronix + lead
 
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can you stick a meter on + terminal of the coil and the + feed to the pertronix and turn the key on.
my 70 has a resistor coil. ie the resistor is built into the coil.
so mine was cake 12v to everything.

if you are getting 6v to the + lead to the pertronix you have a resistor in the circuit that should stay for the coil (unless you buy a coil with internal resistor) And 12v needs to be supplied to the pertronix + lead
I will check the voltages when I have a chance to work on it again, instead of working on blasted legal crud on a nice Friday night! Thanks for the idea. Let's just say that I might have a Pertronix for sale real soon!
 
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Perhaps you might try adjusting the coil to get the best timing you can get? Do you have a vacuum gauge and tach to set it to recommended vacuum and RPM's? I had a problem with hesitation in another rig and it had the stock equipment.
 

Dusty 66

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Cee Jay Im running a pertronix and no resistor in a Vacuums advance distributor, It seam to run best @ 12* advance... Joe
 
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