Perfect running new '76 2F just died, and I can't get it running again. (SOLVED) (1 Viewer)

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Apr 9, 2013
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RENO NV
Guys I would appreciate some suggestions.
I have had my rebuilt '76 2F running great for the past year.
A few weeks ago it just died while out driving and I had to have it towed home.
Started investigating what it could be and I still am not able to get it running.
I believe the problem to be electrical but tracing electrical issues is not my strong point.
I have verified that I am getting spark from the HT wire going into the Distributor, but dont get any spark coming out of plug wires.
I have a Pertronix 1662LS that I bench tested per a test method I found on the interwebs and it checks out OK.
So I am getting power into the distributor but not out it seems.
Is there some other test I can perform to diagnose this issue?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
-AL
 
How old are the cap and rotor?
 
Thanks for the reply guys
The cap and rotor are new as I replaced them thinking that they may be the problem even though they showed no obvious damage or excessive wear.
The fusible link is a few years old but looks fine.
Again I am getting power into the distributor but not out. At least that is my interpretation of my issue.
 
Check your engine to chassis ground. Try using a jumper cable connected to negative battery terminal on one end, the other to a good unpainted part of the engine. If latter works, it’s likely a ground issue.
 
Since you have a CONVERSION rather than a dedicated electronic ignition distributor, I would slap the points back in, regardless of whether the Pertronix checks out.
 
I have several new ground cables installed, but your suggestion is a good one and I will do it to verify ground path. Thank you.

65swb45 I can absolutely replace the Pertronix with points as I have a new set available, but if the Pertronix appears to be viable from the test, how would the points be a better option?​

 
And as a side note I do have a dedicated electronic distributor from CityRacer, but I have installed it before and never been able to make it work. Maybe I need to send it somewhere to have it tested.
 
Well I tried grounding with the jumper cables and no change. I also put in points and no change. I think I am going to try a jumper from the ignition switch to coil negative if I can figure that out.
 
My system does not have a ballast resistor anymore.
Yes I am incorrect about a jumper to coil negative thanks for that. Right now my coil negative has the yellow wire from the Sniper unit and the wire to the pertronix unit.
I understand the jumper from the battery to coil positive in order to test the coil, and will do that again today. In fact im going to re-check everything systematically today. I do have an in-line spark tester and will be using it. I have been reading many threads about similar issues and have gathered a bunch of things to check.
I have in the back of my mind that the wire from the ignition switch to the coil is the culprit, but if I am getting spark from the HT wire out of the coil doesn't that mean that that wire is functioning as required?
 
if I am getting spark from the HT wire out of the coil doesn't that mean that that wire is functioning as required?
I would say yes and I think I'd use the spark tester next.
If you're getting spark, next I'd check that your dizzy clamp is tight and it didn't spin out of time on it's own.
 
I have no doubt that right now the timing is off some because I had the distributor out and it has been reinstalled.
I am also going to check the ground at the distributor. Its acting like it has no ground I think.
 
I'll have to report in tomorrow. Being the idiot that I am I left the ignition on yesterday and the battery is dead. Charging it up now. Geez!
 
I left the ignition on yesterday and the battery is dead.

Leaving the ignition on long term can be a bad thing for the black Ignitor 1. Depending on where the rotor in the dizzy ends up when the engine is stopped, the Ignitor 1 can be damaged with the ignition left on long term. I did what you did more than once with the Ignitor 1 but I guess I got lucky with the rotor position and it never failed on me. I hope you are also lucky.
 
I had the same issue about 6mos ago. Ended up being the Pertronix ignitor. Testing passed the first time and failed the second. Hope you sort it out.
 
I had the same issue about 6mos ago. Ended up being the Pertronix ignitor. Testing passed the first time and failed the second. Hope you sort it out.
Ignitor l or Ignitor ll ? Black or Red ?
 
Mine is the Ignitor 2 1662LS. I think it a goner. Sticker on the backside is melted. Now I am burning the Engine fuse and the Sniper is inop.
 

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