Perfect running new '76 2F just died, and I can't get it running again. (SOLVED) (7 Viewers)

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
Guys I would appreciate some suggestions.
I have had my rebuilt '76 2F running great for the past year.
A few weeks ago it just died while out driving and I had to have it towed home.
Started investigating what it could be and I still am not able to get it running.
I believe the problem to be electrical but tracing electrical issues is not my strong point.
I have verified that I am getting spark from the HT wire going into the Distributor, but dont get any spark coming out of plug wires.
I have a Pertronix 1662LS that I bench tested per a test method I found on the interwebs and it checks out OK.
So I am getting power into the distributor but not out it seems.
Is there some other test I can perform to diagnose this issue?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
-AL
 

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
Thanks for the reply guys
The cap and rotor are new as I replaced them thinking that they may be the problem even though they showed no obvious damage or excessive wear.
The fusible link is a few years old but looks fine.
Again I am getting power into the distributor but not out. At least that is my interpretation of my issue.
 

ceylonfj40nut

Waiting for Barn Time
SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 11, 2015
Messages
4,476
Location
TX
Check your engine to chassis ground. Try using a jumper cable connected to negative battery terminal on one end, the other to a good unpainted part of the engine. If latter works, it’s likely a ground issue.
 

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
I have several new ground cables installed, but your suggestion is a good one and I will do it to verify ground path. Thank you.

65swb45 I can absolutely replace the Pertronix with points as I have a new set available, but if the Pertronix appears to be viable from the test, how would the points be a better option?​

 

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
And as a side note I do have a dedicated electronic distributor from CityRacer, but I have installed it before and never been able to make it work. Maybe I need to send it somewhere to have it tested.
 

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
Well I tried grounding with the jumper cables and no change. I also put in points and no change. I think I am going to try a jumper from the ignition switch to coil negative if I can figure that out.
 

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
My system does not have a ballast resistor anymore.
Yes I am incorrect about a jumper to coil negative thanks for that. Right now my coil negative has the yellow wire from the Sniper unit and the wire to the pertronix unit.
I understand the jumper from the battery to coil positive in order to test the coil, and will do that again today. In fact im going to re-check everything systematically today. I do have an in-line spark tester and will be using it. I have been reading many threads about similar issues and have gathered a bunch of things to check.
I have in the back of my mind that the wire from the ignition switch to the coil is the culprit, but if I am getting spark from the HT wire out of the coil doesn't that mean that that wire is functioning as required?
 

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
I have no doubt that right now the timing is off some because I had the distributor out and it has been reinstalled.
I am also going to check the ground at the distributor. Its acting like it has no ground I think.
 

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
I'll have to report in tomorrow. Being the idiot that I am I left the ignition on yesterday and the battery is dead. Charging it up now. Geez!
 

Steamer

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
1,757
Location
Miami, FL
I left the ignition on yesterday and the battery is dead.

Leaving the ignition on long term can be a bad thing for the black Ignitor 1. Depending on where the rotor in the dizzy ends up when the engine is stopped, the Ignitor 1 can be damaged with the ignition left on long term. I did what you did more than once with the Ignitor 1 but I guess I got lucky with the rotor position and it never failed on me. I hope you are also lucky.
 

BIG RENO AL

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
308
Location
RENO NV
Mine is the Ignitor 2 1662LS. I think it a goner. Sticker on the backside is melted. Now I am burning the Engine fuse and the Sniper is inop.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom