peeling / chipping blizzard pearl paint (1 Viewer)

[jewish4WD]

No update. The spot by the headlight hasn’t gotten worse, fortunately. Ended up focusing on other mods, and may reconsider my options when / if it gets worse.

DId you end up using the Scratch Paint product? Im still confused why more people arent willing to spend the extra mile (1-2 hours) instead of 20-30 minutes on these dime size or smaller areas and then applying clear coat beyond the actual repair area and doing a fine 2500grit wet sand to smooth things out and then a quick buff to get the wet sand out and it should significantly reduce the chances of peeling in that immediate area right? I feel like you see people who had one area of peeling, covered it with vinly or the sort and many of them end up with no peeling in another place for 1-2 years. If you were able to do this right when things started, depending on where your car is stored etc, it might be possible to get many years of no significant peeling if you are willing to do each touchup correctly so that the clear coat extends beyond the actual chip/peel area and then blended in with really fine wet sanding.

Did you end up doing any of these temporary things? (not necessarily my method, but temporarily fixing the peeling areas and it didnt get worse?)

 

[jewish4WD]

Also, to anybody who is more experienced than me, if the issue is that the paint isn't adhering to the car itself, wouldnt this mean that it needs to be stripped down to the metal & plastic all the way? So when someone like OP says they want do to the prep work, how does one properly strip all his panels down to the metal?

 

[drowzyGX]

Also, to anybody who is more experienced than me, if the issue is that the paint isn't adhering to the car itself, wouldnt this mean that it needs to be stripped down to the metal & plastic all the way? So when someone like OP says they want do to the prep work, how does one properly strip all his panels down to the metal?

pretty much have to strip it down, yes. that’s why, once it starts, it’s just a matter of time until that panel gets much worse. my guess is that’s why you don’t see folks do spot repairs that involve sanding and buffing an area around the peeling. at least, that’s why I won’t spot treat mine, and why various higher end paint shops wouldn’t either.

as far as stripping it down, everything I’ve seen is sanding. There’s a thread somewhere in here where a forum member bedlined their GX (rhino liner, I think). He detailed the prep process well. Lots of time taping, sanding, and priming.

I’m waiting for mine to get much worse. Once it does, I’ll weigh my options between paint, bed liner, or laying down a coat of primer then wrapping it. Hoping to have a house by that point so I can do it myself.

 

[jewish4WD]

pretty much have to strip it down, yes. that’s why, once it starts, it’s just a matter of time until that panel gets much worse. my guess is that’s why you don’t see folks do spot repairs that involve sanding and buffing an area around the peeling. at least, that’s why I won’t spot treat mine, and why various higher end paint shops wouldn’t either.

as far as stripping it down, everything I’ve seen is sanding. There’s a thread somewhere in here where a forum member bedlined their GX (rhino liner, I think). He detailed the prep process well. Lots of time taping, sanding, and priming.

I’m waiting for mine to get much worse. Once it does, I’ll weigh my options between paint, bed liner, or laying down a coat of primer then wrapping it. Hoping to have a house by that point so I can do it myself.

So you ended up doing zero touchups? I get what youre saying but its odd that there is no documented place of someone trying. If you have an area the size of a pencil eraser or smaller which is typically how this is all starting based on the photos ive seen, why is there no documentation of someone even attempting to use a touch-up kit to cover it up and then put clear coat over it and see if it would at least slow it down. Maybe after 2-3 times of doing that and it not being very effective they would give up. I still find it odd that I legit have not seen once documented attempt at someone even trying a touch-up kit on peeling GX... just vinyl or much larger sand and repaints on areas much much larger already.

 

[drowzyGX]

Correct, I have not touched it up at all. I can’t speak for others, but id rather have the large gash than have to repaint the fender.

 

[jewish4WD]

Correct, I have not touched it up at all. I can’t speak for others, but id rather have the large gash than have to repaint the fender.

Did you get advised not to touch it up? Confused where this fear of making it worse comes from. So far all the documentation shows that the only people with significant peeling never did anything about it. 2 cars I almost purchased had small amounts of exposed primer and they simply covered it with vinly and it didnt seem to get worse. Seems to me that the biggest risk in things getting worse is allowing it to be exposed and the moisture, water, grime to creep underneath and it just gets worse and worse and to the point of no return

 

[drowzyGX]

It’s going to get worse whether you touch it up or not because the problem is the primer not adhering to the body.

every method of touch up is going to involve sanding the area around the peeled paint. If the primer doesn’t adhere to body, then sanding just leads to more chunks coming. Once it starts to chip, even wiping microfiber cloths around that around for a hand wash can chip it more.

yes, when I talked with some of the higher end paint shops around Atlanta, they all said they wouldn’t be comfortable doing touch ups because they were concerned that as soon as they start sanding, the paint would keep peeling.

Had a really nice detailing place refuse to do paint correction on other parts of my car after they saw the peeling up front. Same reason: they didn’t want to put the rotary buffer and have paint just peel off.

I know it’s going to get worse, not if, but when. I’d rather not speed the process up trying to do a touch up that won’t even look great once it’s done.

 

[jewish4WD]

It’s going to get worse whether you touch it up or not because the problem is the primer not adhering to the body.

every method of touch up is going to involve sanding the area around the peeled paint. If the primer doesn’t adhere to body, then sanding just leads to more chunks coming. Once it starts to chip, even wiping microfiber cloths around that around for a hand wash can chip it more.

yes, when I talked with some of the higher end paint shops around Atlanta, they all said they wouldn’t be comfortable doing touch ups because they were concerned that as soon as they start sanding, the paint would keep peeling.

Had a really nice detailing place refuse to do paint correction on other parts of my car after they saw the peeling up front. Same reason: they didn’t want to put the rotary buffer and have paint just peel off.

I know it’s going to get worse, not if, but when. I’d rather not speed the process up trying to do a touch up that won’t even look great once it’s done.

Can you sejnd me a pic of what yours looks like

 

[drowzyGX]

Can you sejnd me a pic of what yours looks like

 

[Benandrustedgx]

Figured I would weigh in since I think I have done every method on a car other than the $$$$ option to fully repaint the car.
TLDR I Raptor Lined my 04 pearl 470 and I'm so happy!
Photos of Plasti dip or Liner. I will only Liner a vehicle after trying both.

DIY touchup rattle can is Hard. If you want it to look good it will take just as much time to prep, paint, sand, paint, sand... as the other options but if you don't have the painting technique down it is really easy to ruin it. When you walk past your work, You will see it. $50ish and 2-3 days

Local shop touch-up: Nice option. Sand the car yourself and prime it. Drop it off to them for the topcoat. You will have little time in and they will have very little labor so the price is probably about the same as the options below and will last longer than you'd expect. The primer on your car that is intact has stuck for 15 years. If it is still there, probably not going to fall off tomorrow. $400, 1 day of work for you, 1 for the shop.

Plasti-Dip! Plastidip is rubber and binds to itself so it will stay on the car even if the paint underneath wants to release. Dip is Temporary though unfortunately. UV rays deteriorate the compounds, mine had a color additive and faded/flat after one year. Even original black fades. If you don't care about fade though it can last a couple of years. Prep work is half a day, paint the other half. ~$350 for paint plus the spray gun. I've got a gallon of clear and the gun if you're interested.

Raptor liner! Slightly more prep than plastidip. 1.5 days to sand anywhere you see chipping paint and put on some etching primer on the bare metal areas. paint prep up is 50% more work than plastidip. Give at least 6 hours to remove lights, grill and tape it up. Paint is 1/3 as many coats as plastidip. 2 hours tops for all the coats. Liner is incredibly tough and isn't as concerned about what's underneath. Basically making a shell so there isn't as much of a threat of chipping. Also if it chips in 5 years, fire up the gun and hit that spot. 2-3 days for a GX, $450 for paint, and HF paint gun.

Good luck and happy to answer questions about my experiences.

 

[drowzyGX]

Figured I would weigh in since I think I have done every method on a car other than the $$$$ option to fully repaint the car.
TLDR I Raptor Lined my 04 pearl 470 and I'm so happy!
Photos of Plasti dip or Liner. I will only Liner a vehicle after trying both.

DIY touchup rattle can is Hard. If you want it to look good it will take just as much time to prep, paint, sand, paint, sand... as the other options but if you don't have the painting technique down it is really easy to ruin it. When you walk past your work, You will see it. $50ish and 2-3 days

Local shop touch-up: Nice option. Sand the car yourself and prime it. Drop it off to them for the topcoat. You will have little time in and they will have very little labor so the price is probably about the same as the options below and will last longer than you'd expect. The primer on your car that is intact has stuck for 15 years. If it is still there, probably not going to fall off tomorrow. $400, 1 day of work for you, 1 for the shop.

Plasti-Dip! Plastidip is rubber and binds to itself so it will stay on the car even if the paint underneath wants to release. Dip is Temporary though unfortunately. UV rays deteriorate the compounds, mine had a color additive and faded/flat after one year. Even original black fades. If you don't care about fade though it can last a couple of years. Prep work is half a day, paint the other half. ~$350 for paint plus the spray gun. I've got a gallon of clear and the gun if you're interested.

Raptor liner! Slightly more prep than plastidip. 1.5 days to sand anywhere you see chipping paint and put on some etching primer on the bare metal areas. paint prep up is 50% more work than plastidip. Give at least 6 hours to remove lights, grill and tape it up. Paint is 1/3 as many coats as plastidip. 2 hours tops for all the coats. Liner is incredibly tough and isn't as concerned about what's underneath. Basically making a shell so there isn't as much of a threat of chipping. Also if it chips in 5 years, fire up the gun and hit that spot. 2-3 days for a GX, $450 for paint, and HF paint gun.

Good luck and happy to answer questions about my experiences.

Really appreciate your insight and input, thanks!

i don't the scratched spot much at all at this point. probably gonna wait until next summer and bed line it once the gf and i have a house + yard where i can spray it. can't argue with the price point and the results i've seen from careful diy jobs. always wanted that toyota tan...guess that will be my chance, lol.

main question for you is about the prep work before spraying liner. do you really only have to sand the areas with chipping paint? is it better to sand the entire truck? i don't mind the additional labor of sanding the entire thing if it will lead to a better project. worse ways to spend a couple days in summer than a case of beer and sanding the truck.

 

[Benandrustedgx]

Anywhere chipped it is worth sanding down to the bare metal and then a little extra around it. Making sure you find anything loose or where moisture could be underneath. Orbital sander and an hour. Then one spray can of etching primer to cover all those spots.
After all that, you do the quick scuffing by hand of the entire car. Once you have permanently said goodbye to that mirror finish it's time to wipe the car down several times.
That's the big difference with the Dip, sanding the entire car and having to tape really detailed.

 

[drowzyGX]

Got it. That makes sense. Chipped areas get sanded to bare metal and primed, everything else gets scuffed real good.

thanks!