Builds Paul's "I have no idea what I'm doing" Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Based on the guidance of several here and on facebook added some ATP AT-205 Re-Seal that I got on Amazon. After putting it in sunday and driving it today, the leak seems to be stopped for now. I'll continue to monitor my PS fluid and the level it is at.
 
Installed my Ironman 4x4 front bumper and winch over the weekend. I'd rate it as follows:

Instructions: 1/10. It gives basic directions, but often says "using bolts provided, attach XX item". It doesn't say which bolts, doesn't say how many, doesn't do anything to reference the "box o' bits" they send along with the bumper. THERE ARE NO TORQUE SPECS FOR ANYTHING. HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE?
Fit & Finish: 7/10. I bought this bumper because I could get it quickly, with free shipping, and it had the iconic "Land Cruiser Bull Bar Bumper" I was looking for. The powder coat is a little soft, was easily scratched while trying to put the winch controller on.
Durability: 7/10. Had a bolt shear off while I was trying to tighten it down. Luckily I was able to drill it out.
Winch: 6/10. My biggest beef with this is the control box. It's oversized and not going to fit anywhere outside of the top of my bumper without custom modification. Their instructions literally tell you to just mount it on top of the bumper. While that may be the easy solution (and the instructions they give don't match) it would, to me, ruin the look of the bumper.
Looks: 9/10. Looks great to me, but beauty is often in the eye of the beholder.

Long story, I'll probably end up selling this bumper and winch down the line once I can stomach the $5k it will cost me for full Dissent front and rears, but they'll do fine for now.

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Looks great! Bummer the quality isn't what you were hoping for.
 
Upgraded my steering wheel. This new one is just a bit thicker and it makes the truck feel a little more modern. I love it. Went on easily and looks great.

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I see you have a Harbor Freight jack stand, make sure it isn't the one that was recalled.
 
I see you have a Harbor Freight jack stand, make sure it isn't the one that was recalled.

One of the first things I did when I got home from work. Not the models being recalled. Thanks for the heads up
 
Upgraded my battery terminals today. I've been looking for something like this for a while, as I kept just adding more and more things to my factory battery terminals and it was getting cluttered/messy. This kit didnt require any cutting of wires. This is the kit I used: SDHQ Built HD Billet Main Battery Terminal Upgrade Kit

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How tall are the new terminals with all of the wiring back on it? How much room do you have between top of the bolt and the hood?
 
How tall are the new terminals with all of the wiring back on it? How much room do you have between top of the bolt and the hood?

I'd have to measure, it's about 2 inches higher than normal.

Hood closed no issues. 🤷‍♂️
 
@prwillard2 Damn dude those things are BEEF!!! So no clearancing issues with the hood, huh.. interesting.

Just took a closer look. Clears the hood no issue. Will be even shorter once I convert the older post connection to a flat connector. Just need to get the materials to convert the integrated ground into a ring terminal as well.
 
Upgraded my battery terminals today. I've been looking for something like this for a while, as I kept just adding more and more things to my factory battery terminals and it was getting cluttered/messy. This kit didnt require any cutting of wires. This is the kit I used: SDHQ Built HD Billet Main Battery Terminal Upgrade Kit

FYI, the "shoulder" bolts that secure the terminals to the posts should be flipped around. The non-squared portion should point in and the squared portion you use to tighten should point outward. That allows you to get the 10mm socket on and tighten without interference. I circled the bolt I'm talking about.

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FYI, the "shoulder" bolts that secure the terminals to the posts should be flipped around. The non-squared portion should point in and the squared portion you use to tighten should point outward. That allows you to get the 10mm socket on and tighten without interference. I circled the bolt I'm talking about.

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Good catch... ive done that before too... but this is Paul's "i dont know what im doing thread..." :jimlad:
 
So, I've been deployed over here to the middle east since August and will be returning to the states sometime this spring/summer. I'm looking ahead to a complete refresh of my front end, as my wife says that my steering rack is leaking again. Looking to replace my steering rack, replace my CV's (both of mine are aftermarket junk from the previous owner), replacing all the driveline bushings (I've already bought all these parts), new upper control arms (already have the Nitro Upper Control arms), rip out my AHC, install my Ironman4x4 2" lift & diff drop, and install my White Knuckle Off-Road Sliders.

I've found quite a few threads on the steering rack replacement and the parts required, can anyone help steer me in the right direction for the additional parts required for CV replacement? See attached for the part list I'm currently going off of. Any parts without prices listed are currently in my possession.

Thanks for the help in advance, this will be my first big project I am tackling myself, aside from the blown transfer case diagnosis from last summer.
 

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