AltFuel Pat's WVO thread (1 Viewer)

[floridan surfer]

Disclaimer: I don't know what the heck I'm doing.

With that, here's my build thread. I am primarily seeking assistance and advice with my project; this thread is, by no means, a how to.

Here's the vehicle- a 93 80 series: Powered by a 95 Cummins 4BTA with a VE injector pump. Pat

 

[floridan surfer]

Here's the cool part- my WVO processor:

I start by pouring my oil through a 100 micron screen filter, which then flows into a "John Galt" style upflow settling container.






That container then overflows the cleanest oil into, what I call, the supply drum.

Using a series of 3-way valves, I pump from the supply barrel to a dieselcraft style centrifuge, the clean oil then falls into a third barrel, what I call the polishing barrel. With the 3-way valves, I circulate the oil in this barrel until the oil is clean and dry.

I centrifuge at about 90-100 psi, which I adjust with a bypass valve. The bypassed oil is fed through an irrigation sprinkler head for drying. Here is the system in action. The sprinkler head makes a nice fan spray.

Here's the motor and pump; nothing really special there.

 

[floridan surfer]

Today I installed an old aluminum marine fuel tank into the spare tire space. The tank itself still needs a bit of work, but at least it's installed. I can install or remove it in about 5 minutes, so that's cool! I'm thinking I will use HOH fuel line ( heater hose and fuel line in the same sleeve) to heat the VO on its way to the engine compartment. Any thoughts on this? Would this be enough heat? I live in central Florida, so I wouldn't have the cold veggie challenges many others have.

 

[John Galt]

If you don't get the VO fuel to at least 140°F with a flat plate heat exchanger then it will foul the injectors and coke the rings.

 

[floridan surfer]

If you don't get the VO fuel to at least 140°F with a flat plate heat exchanger then it will foul the injectors and coke the rings.

Thanks for the reply. So, do you think I should just go with the flat plate heat exchanger and skip the heated fuel line altogether?

Pat

 

[John Galt]

Thanks for the reply. So, do you think I should just go with the flat plate heat exchanger and skip the heated fuel line altogether?Pat

yes, in your climate.
With only a FPHE my engine sees 150°F fuel at the injectors in temperatures you see normally.

 

[magnus_heydoc]

John's right.
HOH and other line heating is useful but not on it's own. coolant heat exchangers should be the center piece of all heating systems. Consider a heater fuel pick up and FPHEs first and build the rest around that.
I've been doing it for 10 years or so.

 

[John Galt]

I agree with mag. Also in a balmy climate like Florida a heated fuel pick-up may not be needed if 3/8 PEX fuel line is used. It will depend on how much PHO and fat is in the UVO. Put a sample in the fridge overnight to see how thick it gets.

 

[floridan surfer]

I agree with mag. Also in a balmy climate like Florida a heated fuel pick-up may not be needed if 3/8 PEX fuel line is used. It will depend on how much PHO and fat is in the UVO. Put a sample in the fridge overnight to see how thick it gets.

PEX fuel line? Are we talking about the same stuff used in plumbing? What advantage does it have over aluminum (other than being significantly less expensive) ?

Pat

 

[John Galt]

PEX fuel line? Are we talking about the same stuff used in plumbing? What advantage does it have over aluminum (other than being significantly less expensive) ?
Pat

significantly less heat loss

 

[floridan surfer]

It will depend on how much PHO and fat is in the UVO. Put a sample in the fridge overnight to see how thick it gets.

Ok, Mr Galt. I did like you said and put a sample in the fridge overnight. It gelled pretty solid, but began to liquify minutes after removing it. There was no layering. What does this mean?

This pic is me holding the glass horizontal. It was slowly starting to run.

 

[John Galt]

It appears that if the operating temperature is warmer than your fridge, you should be good to go with just a FPHE.

 

[floridan surfer]

Also in a balmy climate like Florida a heated fuel pick-up may not be needed if 3/8 PEX fuel line is used.

Would 1/4 PEX be okay? Or would that put too much strain on the lift pump? I'm having trouble finding fittings for 3/8 PEX.

Pat

 

[John Galt]

I would use ½" PEX tube and Gates barricade biofuel hose. [available by the ft at most NAPA stores.]
PEX fittings are inexpensive and work with both. Use sections of hose at the ends to connect to appliances. To join tube and hose use a brass PEX coupler with a screw clamp on the hose side and a compression ring crimped on the tube. Insulate the tube and hose with ½ foam pipe insulation.

 

[floridan surfer]

This is my valve system I put together. Basically 2 three way valves mounted parallel to each other and will be actuated by a push/pull cable i stole from my boat. You may notice in the last two pics that I will have my WVO return looped into the WVO supply. Is this going to be ok, or should I return it to the tank?

 

[FL cruiser]

Hi Pat,
Just now saw your thread.

A temp gauge with a sender T'd in somewhere on your veggie supply line close to the engine will always keep you informed what your veggie temp is. An electrical water temp gauge works fine with a 1/4 or 3/8 pipe T for the sender.

The looped idea is a simple and effective way to help increase the veg temp, but it will slow down purge times. I prefer run the return line back to the tank. If extra heating is needed, an extra heat exchanger can be installed.

The manual valves are a super reliable trouble free way to switch tanks, the closer to the engine your tank switch is, the faster the purge times. It appears you have your valves under the hood which is good.
Quick purge times means switching to diesel 5 min before get home. Slow purge times mean switching to diesel 15 min before you get home.

 

[floridan surfer]

Thanks for your response, Steve. I meant to send you a PM asking you to follow this thread. At some point, I red to see you set up.

Just to clarify, the looped fuel line is only on the veggie side. On diesel, the return is plumbed to the diesel tank.

Pat

 

[floridan surfer]

I've made some pretty good progress over the holidays.

I have the fuel line ran. I used the 3/8 PEX hose with stainless steel barb fittings. I read in another forum that you could heat the PEX and then slide the barb fittings into the PEX; the PEX then shrinks as it cools, forming a seal around the fitting. It seems to work well.

I also have the mods completed on the tank and have it ready to install. The only issue is that I do not have a check valve installed in the fuel line. Without a check valve, do I risk introducing air into the fuel system when I switch fuels?

Pat

 

[FL cruiser]

Are you running separate fuel pumps for each fuel system or the same pump?

If your running separate pumps and an electric on the veggie, most stock pumps and electric pumps have the check valve built in.

If you're using an electric pump, where is it located?

 

[floridan surfer]

For now, I will only use the factory mechanical lift pump. I'm trying to keep my setup as simple and "stock" as possible. I realize I may end up having to add an electric pump for the veggie.... We'll see how it works. If I do add one though, it'll be at the tank so the entire fuel system is under pressure, rather than vacuum.

I ordered a check valve to install in the tank on the pickup straw. My concern is that the veggie will flow backward while sitting, filling the entire (11 foot) fuel line with air- which would then get sucked into the filter, IP, etc.

Pat