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[cruiserpatch]

more pictures

 

[cruiserpatch]

the o-ring was solid as a rock. it hadn’t cracked yet but it had shrunk - apparently enough to cause a leak

I learned the hard way that it’s easier to install the crank seal AFTER the oil pump (see pictures)

 

[cruiserpatch]

I’m attempting to reinstall my timing belt but I cannot seem to get the tension on the belt right.

I pull the slack to the side between the RH cam and the Crank (so that the tensioner pulley will take up the slack), but it’s just too tight.

I’ve done this half a dozen times by now but never experienced this.

When I bolt up the tensioner and pull the pin, I can easily slide the pin right back into the tensioner. It is fully compressed…

Wermz is coming by this evening to help out but I’m curious if this has happened to anyone before.

@2001LC have you ever experienced this after an oil pump install?

 

[UZJ100LC]

I finished the labor intensive part of fixing this oil leak. But i have a long way to go…

There’s an o-ring behind the oil pump on the block that over time shrivels or cracks, letting oil seep past it. The symptoms for me were oil drips forming on the oil pan and draining out of the wheep hole on the crank timing cover.

Here are the steps in this repair ($4 for the o-ring)

1. remove front diff and crossmember
2. remove timing belt
3. disconnect AC compressor from block
4. remove crank pulley
4a. remove oil cooler and dipstick
5. remove no.1 and no. 2 oil pans (fipg)
6. remove oil slinger (gasket)
7. remove oil pump (fipg and o-ring)
8. replace o-ring, reinstall oil pump, install new crank seal

9. reverse process

Just curious, is this job also done by pulling the engine?

Anyway nice work, can’t believe doing all that for a 4$ Oring

 

[cruiserpatch]

Just curious, is this job also done by pulling the engine?

Yes, the FSM actually calls for engine removal but I don’t have a stand. I also had my front diff out already while I installed my eaton e-locker. The time was now!

 

[2001LC]

Tensioner piston is under high pressure. Once pin pulled from tensioner piston, piston moves outward. To put pin back in, requires removing tensioner and place in press. So to be able to replace pin in place, indicates the piston is not extending. A bad tensioner OR You did not place the thick washer behind the tension pulley against the oil pump housing on end of 10mm bolt. Than when you torqued the 10mm allen head bolt down, it locked tensioner pulley housing arm to the oil pump housing. Take both out and inspect.

Timing marks:

 

[abuck99]

Nice work Patch- I’ve heard of oil pump o-ring R&R with out removing engine- but haven’t known anyone directly doing it- we’re you able to keep the gasket surface clean of dripping oil long enough to reseal effectively?

Looks like you brought a fair amount of Utah home with you- mud clay dust into your timing belt area. I would be a little concerned by the amount of dirt and grime on the timing belt and pulleys- concerned for longevity of the belt, pulleys. bearings under those conditions. While you have it apart- you might consider thoroughly cleaning that area, and replace the belt.

 

[MongooseGA]

Did you guys get it figured out?

 

[cruiserpatch]

@2001LC

I replaced the tensioner twice thinking I had a bad one. I’ve done four or five of these TB jobs before and made sure to replace the washer behind tensioner pulley. I knew that was not the issue.

Yesterday I decided to spend the $60 on a new belt just for the helluvit. Sure enough, my AISIN belt with 15K miles on it shrank so much that it did not have enough slack for the tensioner piston to extend at all. Crazy!

New belt fixed the problem.

I use the ‘T’ marks during service/R&R, then check timing with ‘|’ marks and TDC ‘0’ on timing cover. Everything is perfectly in time

 

[cruiserpatch]

Nice work Patch- I’ve heard of oil pump o-ring R&R with out removing engine- but haven’t known anyone directly doing it- we’re you able to keep the gasket surface clean of dripping oil long enough to reseal effectively?

Looks like you brought a fair amount of Utah home with you- mud clay dust into your timing belt area. I would be a little concerned by the amount of dirt and grime on the timing belt and pulleys- concerned for longevity of the belt, pulleys. bearings under those conditions. While you have it apart- you might consider thoroughly cleaning that area, and replace the belt.

I noticed that too. Pretty concerning how dirty it got back there. I may buy another kit and R&R the pulleys just in case. They still feel okay but I don’t want to chance it.

I’ve already had an idler pulley explode on me before. What a mess.

I did figure out that apparently there should be rubber seals on the plastic timing covers. My truck didn’t have them when I bought it. Perhaps I should see about replacing them but they aren’t sold separately from the covers themselves

 

[cruiserpatch]

Did you guys get it figured out?

Ryan and I chatted for a second, I tried a new belt, and saved him a trip over here to rescue me a second time haha.

Timing belt 1 Patch 0

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC

I replaced the tensioner twice thinking I had a bad one. I’ve done four or five of these TB jobs before and made sure to replace the washer behind tensioner pulley. I knew that was not the issue.

Yesterday I decided to spend the $60 on a new belt just for the helluvit. Sure enough, my AISIN belt with 15K miles on it shrank so much that it did not have enough slack for the tensioner piston to extend at all. Crazy!

New belt fixed the problem.

I use the ‘T’ marks during service/R&R, then check timing with ‘|’ marks and TDC ‘0’ on timing cover. Everything is perfectly in time

View attachment 3117048

They (timing belt) do not shrink other than perhaps in very cold temperature shrinking molecules or heat expanding them. But this would be much less than we could measure, and not keep pin compressed. Belt do wear in teeth, which is very minimal even at 250K miles of run time/use. Wear would be kind like stretching.

So since you're sure you had belt, pulleys, washer and tensioner on correct. You must have had bad/wrong belt on. Likely a China made knock-off, and not noticed it 15K ago during install.

In the pictures above, I show timing marks, after turning crank 720 degrees CW. Which is test, timing dead-on.

When first installing belt, I place cams and crank sprocket on hard marks. I do a little different than FSM. In that I "test" I'm dead-on, before covers or harmonic balance on. That way I no variation due to plastic cover out of alignment, shrinkage, etc. I can also correct if off time easily.

Notice, clamps holding belt in place. Clamps are very lightly holding belt on sprockets. I put belt on, before either pulley.
IMHO, it is best to time to the hard marks.

Note: Testing the tensioner, it takes up to 2,205 lbf of pressure to fully compress push rod, to get in the pin.

 

[cruiserpatch]

So since you're sure you had belt, pulleys, washer and tensioner on correct. You must have had bad/wrong belt on. Likely a China made knock-off, and not noticed it 15K ago during install.

Note: Testing the tensioner, it takes up to 2,205 lbf of pressure to fully compress push rod, to get in the pin.

I bought the previous OEM belt from Cruiser Outfitters so chances of it being a chinese knock off are slim to none.

I still don’t understand it, quite honestly, but it was too tight (allowed for no movement of the tensioner pulley) when I slipped it back on.

I bought an OEM replacement and it fit perfectly, allowing the tensioner pulley to rotate with enough slack in the belt that the tensioner actually engaged.

I trust your experience more than most online, and I’m telling you I agree that there’s no way this happened but it happened somehow

I believe rubber shrinks in heat which would explain a slight shrinkage, but that’s the only theory I have come up with…

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I bought the previous OEM belt from Cruiser Outfitters so chances of it being a chinese knock off are slim to none.

I still don’t understand it, quite honestly, but it was too tight (allowed for no movement of the tensioner pulley) when I slipped it back on.

I bought an OEM replacement and it fit perfectly, allowing the tensioner pulley to rotate with enough slack in the belt that the tensioner actually engaged.

I trust your experience more than most online, and I’m telling you I agree that there’s no way this happened but it happened somehow

I believe rubber shrinks in heat which would explain a slight shrinkage, but that’s the only theory I have come up with…

Zero percent chance. We stock only genuine Toyota, AISIN and Japanese Pitwork, all made in Japan. We but direct from AISIN so we know we are not getting anything counterfeit.

Any pics of the logo on the belt?

 

[2001LC]

I bought the previous OEM belt from Cruiser Outfitters so chances of it being a chinese knock off are slim to none.

I still don’t understand it, quite honestly, but it was too tight (allowed for no movement of the tensioner pulley) when I slipped it back on.

I bought an OEM replacement and it fit perfectly, allowing the tensioner pulley to rotate with enough slack in the belt that the tensioner actually engaged.

I trust your experience more than most online, and I’m telling you I agree that there’s no way this happened but it happened somehow

I believe rubber shrinks in heat which would explain a slight shrinkage, but that’s the only theory I have come up with…

Well that is strange! Did you match up length, of old belt and new?

I'm looking at dusty/mud on your engine. I'm trying to see if it's so much dirty on belt and sprockets, it could make seems as if belt shrunk! IDK, doesn't look like it! New belt would be nice and clean

BTW: Timing covers do have a rubber seal on them. IIRC all years of the 4.7L. Which I spend extra time cleaning and condition covers and their seals. The 3 upper covers also have little tabs, which often have been busted off. Those tabs help hold covers snug. Then we've the "Timing belt cover spacer & gasket". Mouse door as it's sometimes called, so many forget to install on water pump. Also the 3 wire brackets and grommet attached on bk1 cover, one or more are often missing. Which leave open hole(s). Also the plates on fronts of heads, butt to covers. Those are often bent back a tad. All those, helps keep moisture and dust out when as factory designed. But even then, it is not a water/dust tight area.

 

[cruiserpatch]

Any pics of the logo on the belt?

I just looked back through my photo log from that time and it doesn’t look like i took any photos of the logo on the belt when I replaced it.

Here’s the thread where I replaced it: (post #12)

2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement

Hey Dudes, the 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Engine you guys have in your rigs is an interference engine and you know you don't want to push the interval at which you replace the timing belt because very bad things can happen if the timing belt breaks. Is it an absolute that valve damage will happen if...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[cruiserpatch]

Well that is strange! Did you match up length, of old belt and new?

No pictures, but i did match the length with a nail in a table and the old belt was shorter by a hair. Inconceivable!

I replaced mouse door with gasket but it sounds like I need to find gasket material for the other covers or buy new ones

 

[abuck99]

If still available buy the OEM parts, then source used if necessary-

As for the belt- it would be odd that the printing had worn off in just 15k miles- here’s a belt with 90,000 +miles 10yrs

FYI- enjoyed the Movie of the Colorado trip-

 

[cruiserpatch]

If still available buy the OEM parts, then source used if necessary-

As for the belt- it would be odd that the printing had worn off in just 15k miles- here’s a belt with 90,000 +miles 10yrs

View attachment 3118261


FYI- enjoyed the Movie of the Colorado trip-

The aisin markings (actually Mitsubishi) had worn off my belt. Perhaps because of all the abrasive dust which intruded...

Thanks for the compliment! It was a blast to make that movie and be part of that trip.

 

[2001LC]

No pictures, but i did match the length with a nail in a table and the old belt was shorter by a hair. Inconceivable!

I replaced mouse door with gasket but it sounds like I need to find gasket material for the other covers or buy new ones

The cover gaskets are rubber seals, integrated into the covers. Perhaps you just didn't notice them.