parts list for a tbi set up (1 Viewer)

[toyotatank]

I'm lookin into a tbi for the 60,went wheelin last week and if I hit a certain angle it would die on me, that sucked,especially since I was in up to 2 feet of snow at times which didn't suck. I priced one out online for about $1200. Since I'm on a budget(wife is about to have my first anyday now) I had heard about people putting a setup together from autoyards. What do you think? I put in a thread search or tbi and not much help. Parts list anyone? Thanks

 

[Kavik]

Keep searching! Unfortunately, you do need to dig around for the gems. Also, search on Pirate4x4. Remember, the swap is very popular into Fj40's, Jeeps, etc. The parts list is pretty universal, except for adapters. Definitely check Advance Adapters to see your options for transmissions...

Good luck!

 

[toyotatank]

I was told 90 chevy 350 will work

 

[philos1]

are you talking about just the fuel injection? or a motor swap? if just the FI,google it, and there's a guy who will build a custom efi (customefis.com?) for you for much less $$$...

 

[toyotatank]

just the fuel injection, thanks

 

[S&S1stCruzer]

Hate to High jack the thread, but if you do an EFI conversion what are the chances that you'll pass smog inspection? (I'm thinking about it myself)

 

[philos1]

I assumed (I know...) that toyotatank wasn't in a "controlled" area... long story short, you can't do it legally.... engine swaps, yes FI, no. AFAIK.

 

[Kavik]

just the fuel injection, thanks

My bad...I thought you were going V-8. Study Man-a-fre's kit. Dave Gore of 4+plus (Man-a-fre fabricated parts) knows this kit. I think he developed it for them? His mud name is LCwizard. If he's not too busy, he may be able to give you some insight...

 

[mtb_rider]

Not sure if it will work or is compatible, but what about finding an MPI set-up off of a 3F?

 

[MWM16]

This is the guy to talk to hotrods@waltech.org the website is http://www.waltech.org/21stcenturyhotrods/tlc_efi/tlc_intro.shtml I think, I had this set up and it is easy and worked awesome. It came on my parts cruiser that ran and drove, I pulled the motor out and put it into my other cruiser and used the stock carb setup, I mite sell it cause I dont need it anymore

 

[JDay]

Here is a parts list I used for my Megasquirt based system. I did a long writeup on this a while back. This is an excerpt:

The parts you need to make this work are pretty simple and not too expensive. If you buy one of the full TBI kits out there, you end up spending a lot more money and get a lot less flexibility. Here is my parts list; most of the stuff is straight out the junkyard (JY):

Part Source Cost

TBI adapter to 2F manifold IH8MUD $Free.thirty-free for myself (spaceghost giveaway on this board)
Throttle body w/ injectors (more below) JY 20
Coolant & Air temperature (same for both) JY 10
Oxygen sensor, heated (3 wire) Ebay 40
Bung for O2 sensor Autozone / CSK 10
Megasquirt, full kit Glen’s garage 250
Wiring, full RS Autosports 55
Electric fuel pump Summit 100
Fuel Filter Summit 15
Fuel line, fittings Autozone 40
Throttle cable CSK 25
Air filter adapter (some fab work) JY Free

Total 565

I ended up spending a little more (about $50) for some odds and ends like wire looms, solder, a new wire stripper/crimper, a TBI rebuild kit, some extra injectors, some additional fuel line, and a few nuts and bolts. Prices do not include busted knuckles, #6 consumed, fire extinguishers, skeptical looks from friends and family, and huffing lots of gas fumes.

The TBI adaptor can come from any of the vendors that make one, the only differences being the orientation of the TBI on top of the intake. I am not sure if Spaceghost is still making his, but it has worked out well for me. The big differences will come when adapting the throttle pedal to operate the TBI. More on that later.

The TBI unit everyone usually specifies is from a 4.3L V6 from a Chevy S-10 or Astro van, but I have found that the same one is used on 4.1L and 4.5L V8s in late 80s Cadillacs. This cost me about 20 bucks at my local junkyard. You may need some Torx head screwdrivers to remove it. The injector pods definitely have Torx screws, so I would recommend bringing some to the j-yard. The TPS should still be connected to it so take along an ohmmeter with you to verify its operation. The TPS is just a potentiometer on the end of the butterfly axis. The resistance between 2 of the 3 wires should vary smoothly as it the throttle is opened and closed. Clip the wires as long as possible when removing the TBI, but keep all the connectors attached to the TBI. Normally the junkyard will not charge extra for the attached connectors.

The coolant and air temperature sensors can be exactly the same. Almost all GM sensors will have the same resistance curve. The only differences are the type of connectors. Getting these from a junker is like your sister, cheap and easy. You can buy these from an autoparts place for about $9 each, but you do not get the connector with them. See the MS wiring guide for more details.

Call it what you want, oxygen sensor, EGO, or O2 this thing rocks. The oxygen sensor is optional, but I highly recommend it. Tuning the mixture is much easier with the sensor to let you know if it is rich or lean. You can use any narrow-band 1-wire, 3-wire, or 4-wire sensor or a wide-band sensor with controller. The difference is the narrow-band sensors only read rich or lean, the wide-band can tell you how far rich or lean. I used a new 3-wire sensor from Ebay with universal crimp connectors, so I will focus on those. Narrow-band EGO sensors use 1-wire to transmit the voltage reading from 0 to 1 volt back to the computer. The problem is they need to be at operating temperature to work correctly. The 3-wire sensors use the other 2 wires to supply 12V and ground to a heater element to bring the temperature up quickly. The 4-wire sensors include an external ground for the sensor reading.

To mount the oxygen sensor in the exhaust system, you use a threaded bung (unless you are an engineer at Toyota – ask an 80 series owner). You can buy threaded bungs, but the easiest thing to do is go to any autoparts place and get an 18mm spark plug anti-fouler from the HELP section. Cut the end off and voila, you have a threaded bung.

The fuel pump needs to put out like the prom queen at homecoming, or at least 15 PSI – way more than the stock mechanical pump can produce. I bought an electric fuel pump from Summit; it is more specifically an MSD 2550 and cost around 80 bones. Don’t worry a lot about too much pressure because the fuel return system will take care of it. The pressure regulator on the TBI will limit the amount in the feed line if the pump you choose can operate the fountains at the Bellagio.

The fuel filter I bought came from Summit as well. The filter is rated at 100 PSI, costs around $15, and adds some bling to the engine compartment.

Fuel lines are easier than I expected. Go buy some 5/16-inch EFI-rated fuel line and clamps from the drone behind the counter at Pep Boys. 10-feet and 52,000 clamps should suffice. The tricky part is getting the fuel fittings and hard lines to tie into the TBI. I noticed some cool barb fitting type on Man-a-fre’s site, but I used some generic ones from Autozone. For the supply side I used Motormite or Dorban p/n 800151 (Saginaw or metric to 3/8” line) and for the return side I found Motormite or Dorban p/n 800153 (Saginaw or metric to 5/16” line). These give you the funky fittings to the TBI with about 18-inches of hard line.

For the throttle cable I bought a universal, steel-braided set-up made by Spectre from the local parts place. Your mileage may vary because of differences in TBI adaptors and the stock linkage on the TBI unit. I will discuss my booty-fab throttle assembly later.

The adapter to the air filter is made easy by snagging the stock cleaner from your uncle Vito’s caddy. You couldn’t walk 3 feet into the Cadillac area of the junkyard without seeing one of these

 

[JDay]

Hate to High jack the thread, but if you do an EFI conversion what are the chances that you'll pass smog inspection? (I'm thinking about it myself)

In the LV Valley area we are subject to smog tests every year. The test is with a tail pipe sniffer run at idle and 2500 rpm (no load). I retained all my smog equipment and have no problem passing emissions. In fact, I can tune those 2 points on the fuel map (no load, 700 rpm - no load, 2500 rpm) so that it runs lean and clean. My HC numbers are in single digits. and CO% is close to zero.

 

[Mace]

Yeah, but that is because the smog nazis are not bright enough to figure out that your smog junk is not completly hooked up any more

 

[toyotatank]

THANKS! For the the list and especially the info. Now I know what to start pillaging at the junkyards. I'm hoping to have it ready for install come summer,so I'm sure I'll be back with more questions . thanks again for laying it out for me.