Partial or total quarter panel replacement? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
475
Location
Columbus, Ohio
So I bought the 1987 FJ60 I had my eye on. I got her down to 1200 dollars.
yay.

Two of my first issues are easy: install shoulder belts in the back to make the baby seat more stable, and add a bit of pipe betwixt the catalytic converter and the tailpipe. i don't know if it was actually a piece that went between or if it rusted out weird and dropped the middle of the pipe.
Anyway, after we get past the easy stuff, the first thing I want to tackle is the body rot. I've decided to replace the panels if possible. I was wondering if it's advisable to tack-in the lower portions of the rear quarters (available aftermarket panels) or to replace the entire rear quarters (which is the whole dammned side of the truck). I have a buddy with a mig welder (albeit 110 volt - i won't be utilizing him for suspension issues) who has offered to help me tack them on.

what's the concensus?

thx!
 

brownbear

Mod in Hibernation
Moderator
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
7,146
Location
North West Ontario
So I bought the 1987 FJ60 I had my eye on. I got her down to 1200 dollars.
yay.

Two of my first issues are easy: install shoulder belts in the back to make the baby seat more stable, and add a bit of pipe betwixt the catalytic converter and the tailpipe. i don't know if it was actually a piece that went between or if it rusted out weird and dropped the middle of the pipe.
Anyway, after we get past the easy stuff, the first thing I want to tackle is the body rot. I've decided to replace the panels if possible. I was wondering if it's advisable to tack-in the lower portions of the rear quarters (available aftermarket panels) or to replace the entire rear quarters (which is the whole dammned side of the truck). I have a buddy with a mig welder (albeit 110 volt - i won't be utilizing him for suspension issues) who has offered to help me tack them on.

what's the concensus?

thx!

I welded in the lower parts around the arches.

you can see what I did here.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=52541&highlight=bj60+repaint

no need to replace the whole side. Which IMOP would be a ton of work.

for seatbelts search that on here. SOR has some conversions too. Many threads on it.

Congrates on the purchase.
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
475
Location
Columbus, Ohio
those gozzard patches look pretty awesome. So if I cut and grind the rusted edges...and then prime and seal the raw panel...i can strap those on without having to really weld more steel back on? Not necessarily original lines, but that might work for me!
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2003
Messages
11,194
Location
Wherever the truck stops!!
Post up when you do this. I need to replace the sheet metal back there to repair damage when I lost a wheel about 2 1/2 years ago. I've got the sheet metal I just haven't been brave enough to hack out the old damaged section (it'll be right up to the first rib in the side!
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
475
Location
Columbus, Ohio
that's about how high I am going to have to hack, too (at least behind the rear wheels). I am not too sure how i want to tackle it. the rockers and door bottoms aren't so frightening.
 

brownbear

Mod in Hibernation
Moderator
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
7,146
Location
North West Ontario
those gozzard patches look pretty awesome. So if I cut and grind the rusted edges...and then prime and seal the raw panel...i can strap those on without having to really weld more steel back on? Not necessarily original lines, but that might work for me!

I think if you just want a rust repair the gozzard flares might be great. I would grind/sand the affected areas and POR-15 them. Then glue the flare over it with structural body epoxy. Then seal the edges so no water can get in.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom