Part time / under drive / reduction 3.11 gears Issues (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 27, 2015
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1,474
Location
Westminster, CO
Alright here I am with issues.
97 80 series
Quick back story of how I got in this situation.

  • Rebuilding a junkyard transfer case that was from a rollover. Super clean inside.
  • Followed all of @OTRAMM helpful videos but added a part time spool
  • While putting the case back together, after installed the preload plate on the differential bearing and torquing to 28 ft lbs. It was very hard to turn by using the rear output shaft.
  • manually shifted the case into low and almost impossible to turn.
  • Manually locked cdl by pushing the rod towards the rear of the case and same thing by using the front output
  • took everything apart and cleaned the FIPG off the case for hours
  • Confirmed again that the low gear was not contacting anything in the case where I clearanced by setting the gear set in the case on the bench and spinning
  • back together, same issue.
  • Tried removing the shims on the differential output to make sure I didn't have too much preload
  • manually locked the cdl again with the rear housing off and the shims out while turning the front output, it turns but when i shift the case to low it locks up
  • confirmed all of the clutch collars are going the correct way with the Bevel

Questions:
  • Can the CDL move too far and casue something to bind when manually operating it (no motor installed, no switches, no ball bearing or spring)
  • People that have done this same setup have you any of these issues?
  • part time people have you had to change the preload on the differential spool bearing?
Pictures Rebuild - Google Drive

IMG_20190316_150151.jpg


IMG_20190316_142939.jpg


high low clearance.jpg


hig low gear set.jpg


idler.jpg
 
more

Movie of low gear in case


front housing shift fork clutch.jpg


high lowset.jpg


IMG_20190315_203847.jpg


IMG_20190315_203844.jpg
 
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All those bearing get lubed by the gear oil in the case so I bet all the grease is what is making moving it by hand difficult
 
All those bearing get lubed by the gear oil in the case so I bet all the grease is what is making moving it by hand difficult
all of the bearings have been lubed with grease / gear oil so they should be able to move. In otramms video he spins everything by hand and nothing binds up.
 
Shot in the dark but maybe something you needed to press didnt get pressed enough
Everything I pressed on with a 20 ton press and made sure that it bottomed out. Also there are snap rings that you wouldn't be able to get on.
 
I'm saying get rid of the grease... There shouldn't be any in the transfer case.


Read through Marlin's instructions
"Tip: We chose to only grease the two forward-facing bearings so we wouldn't get grease all over our hands while inserting the assembly into the case. If you do this, be sure to add grease to the rear tapered bearings before installing the rear case (housing #2). "

I'll go back out there and dab some grease on the case to make sure 200% there it no rubbing.
 
Well nothing is touching that's for sure. Maybe it is just too much grease on the needle bearings on the high low shaft. It is pretty chilly in my garage.

I cleaned some grease off and used a bunch of gear oil on everything I could get to.

Put the high low gear set in without the idler, put grease on the Inside of case and nothing touched then did it with the idler too and nothing.

High range does feel easier now and low range can be turned if I use the butt of a hammer on the yoke flange.

I'm guessing I'm paranoid, and the cold thick grease is making everything much harder to turn.

I'll assemble the case and put it in the truck on the lift and try everything out with the wheels in the air first then see how it feels after everything warms up.
 
Well nothing is touching that's for sure. Maybe it is just too much grease on the needle bearings on the high low shaft. It is pretty chilly in my garage.

I cleaned some grease off and used a bunch of gear oil on everything I could get to.

Put the high low gear set in without the idler, put grease on the Inside of case and nothing touched then did it with the idler too and nothing.

High range does feel easier now and low range can be turned if I use the butt of a hammer on the yoke flange.

I'm guessing I'm paranoid, and the cold thick grease is making everything much harder to turn.

I'll assemble the case and put it in the truck on the lift and try everything out with the wheels in the air first then see how it feels after everything warms up.
Still doesnt seem right. Low range should be easier to turn
 
Is there a procedure for setting the preload on the countershaft assembly? Sound like the countershaft bearings have too much preload, try loosening the bolts holding the rear extension housing to the main case and turn by hand.
 
Still doesnt seem right. Low range should be easier to turn
I thought low would be harder to turn because you're turning the output shaft not the input.

Is there a procedure for setting the preload on the countershaft assembly? Sound like the countershaft bearings have too much preload, try loosening the bolts holding the rear extension housing to the main case and turn by hand.
Most of the spin test was with the rear housing off.

I'm going to full it with gear lube and spin it by hand for awhile.
 
How does it spin in neutral?

If you packed the bearings with grease like you do wheel bearings that'll cause quite a bit of drag like your feeling in low range, especially if it is stiff in high range. Remember in high range if you spin the output shaft you have a slight advantage to the idler shaft assembly(~1.15:1), and are quite a bit behind the curve in low range(~.38:1), 86% of the torque in high range and 236% more torque in low range to spin the idler assembly from the output.

But after all this its probably something really dumb your overlooking.
 
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How does it spin in neutral?

If you packed the bearings with grease like you do wheel bearings that'll cause quite a bit of drag like your feeling in low range, especially if it is stiff in high range. Remember in high range if you spin the output shaft you have a slight advantage to the idler shaft assembly(~1.15:1), and are quite a bit behind the curve in low range(~.38:1), 86% of the torque in high range and 236% more torque in low range to spin the idler assembly from the output.

But after all this its probably something really dumb your overlooking.
I think I over packed the needle bearings in fear of running them dry. I grease the shaft and then greased the needle bearings themselves.

I felt drag on both gears that ride on those needle bearings.

This is exactly what I was thinking. Of course it will be hard on the output.

I just spun it in neutral and it feels the same as my other spare case.
High spins with a little more resistance
Low spins but it's hard to get started. I used the hammer handle and it apins with no weird noise or stops, just resistance.

I filled it with a qt of 75-90 but that's all I had.

Tomorrow I'll get more and try to flush it out. Maybe I'll hookup an electric motor with a belt to an old driveshaft yoke to do a bench test
 
Shot in the dark but maybe something you needed to press didnt get pressed enough
I greased mine per the instructions, no restrictions that I noted.
 
I think I over packed the needle bearings in fear of running them dry. I grease the shaft and then greased the needle bearings themselves.

I felt drag on both gears that ride on those needle bearings.

This is exactly what I was thinking. Of course it will be hard on the output.

I just spun it in neutral and it feels the same as my other spare case.
High spins with a little more resistance
Low spins but it's hard to get started. I used the hammer handle and it apins with no weird noise or stops, just resistance.

I filled it with a qt of 75-90 but that's all I had.

Tomorrow I'll get more and try to flush it out. Maybe I'll hookup an electric motor with a belt to an old driveshaft yoke to do a bench test

That all sounds reasonable. When I did mine I soaked the needle bearings in gear oil, poured more oil into all the open cage bearings and assembled. Installed the case, filled with oil and ran it in drive at idle with the driveshafts remove for 20 minutes or so.
 
That all sounds reasonable. When I did mine I soaked the needle bearings in gear oil, poured more oil into all the open cage bearings and assembled. Installed the case, filled with oil and ran it in drive at idle with the driveshafts remove for 20 minutes or so.
This gives me hope.

I verified the gears, I put stuff back in the press and gave them hell trying to push tighter, nothing moved besides maybe the top of the press might have bent.

The bad part is that I'm going to change the transmission at the same time so that will further compond any issue
 

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