Part locating 99 Fuse box assembly (1 Viewer)

[Jona]

BLOCK ASSY, ENGINE ROOM JUNCTION

8272060022

1999 Toyota Landcruiser

Fuse box assembly is failing. The part is extremely difficult to find. Are there any other options.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Junkyards, Ebay, post in the classifieds here

 

[excessive]

unfortunately, the part is out of production. I checked the sources i use in Japan and Saudi Arabia, its not available there either. You might look into what it would take to rebuild your current one

 

[Jona]

unfortunately, the part is out of production. I checked the sources i use in Japan and Saudi Arabia, its not available there either. You might look into what it would take to rebuild your current one

Appreciated greatly! Thanks, I’m still searching for a fix…

 

[kevgentile]

Appreciated greatly! Thanks, I’m still searching for a fix…

Did you ever find a solution?

This weekend I just bought a rust free '99 for a song and a dance because the previous owner was having immobilizer issues with a crank/no start. After throwing parts at in decided to call it quits. Spent the afternoon doing all the necessary diag and pin outs throughout the harness. The fault has been tracked to the junction box and was not at all related to the ecm. Now need to find or rebuild one.

Cheers

 

[BullElk]

Why not get the immobilizer bypass from @medtro and stop this issue in about 4.5 minutes by plugging and playing?

 

[kevgentile]

Why not get the immobilizer bypass from @medtro and stop this issue in about 4.5 minutes by plugging and playing?

It's not an immobilizer fault as the previous owner thought. The problem is in the junction box not providing the 12v power supply to the ecm

 

[kevgentile]

Thanks BullElk. I see what you are saying now about the bypass kit. It's addressing the efi power supply to the ecm. Same problem I'm having.

Thanks!

 

[Trapper50cal]

I haven't confirmed with my own eyes yet but have purchased one available at dealers.

I was told by someone who I trust VERY MUCH with knowing what he's talking about that:

"60020-->60021-->60022-->60023. (It's) Called internal linear supersession."

The readily available XXXXX--60023 is the desired part.

 

[kevgentile]

Thanks Trapper!

We were digging into this today before I even got on the forum to search into the junction box fiasco on the '99's.
The previous owner was convinced the no start was related to the immob/ecm, even went to the trouble of shot gunning it and replaced the key coil, transformer, and the ecm. So that was where I started my diag, which eventually led to the engine room fuse box after tracing and metering the wiring.

Haven't opened it up yet to see if it melted or not. If so, I'll prob replace the unit with the part number you just provided. If it's clean I might do the relay kit.

Cheers mate

 

[Trapper50cal]

Thanks Trapper!

We were digging into this today before I even got on the forum to search into the junction box fiasco on the '99's.
The previous owner was convinced the no start was related to the immob/ecm, even went to the trouble of shot gunning it and replaced the key coil, transformer, and the ecm. So that was where I started my diag, which eventually led to the engine room fuse box after tracing and metering the wiring.

Haven't opened it up yet to see if it melted or not. If so, I'll prob replace the unit with the part number you just provided. If it's clean I might do the relay kit.

Cheers mate

Yeah, no worries...I was hunting because I had a "turns over but doesn't start issue" and stumbled onto the YT videos discussing the Fusebox failure (under hood Block Assembly) after identifying that it wasn't a key/immobilizer issue.



and heading down this whole rabbit hole... but a few fuse swaps fixed me up for now. I bought the box in prep for fuse swaps to stop working.

I reached out to a friend who worked Toyota Parts, at a very large dealer and specialized in LC stuff, and asked where I could find a 60022 and
that's when he told me they were the same. He wants to remain anonymous so he doesn't start getting hundreds of parts # confirmation requests
which I totally get.

The problem with getting a used old one is that it's somewhere along that failure trajectory as well.

 

[Trapper50cal]

I thought I'd just add that I swapped out #1 and #9

(disregard yellow oval over Relay R1)

 

[kevgentile]

Curious how did just swapping the 2 fuses correct the crank-no start?

 

[Trapper50cal]

Curious how did just swapping the 2 fuses correct the crank-no start?

It started. (and continues to start normally now) My assumption is that those two (or one or the other) had "arched" from the distance generated by hot and cold contraction and expansion of the inner sleeve that receives the "prong" of the fuse (Which is the main problem we're all talking about) and fouled the surface of the fuse prong. I don't think my fusebox is as far along as others may be.

But the immobilizer delete kit is for a different problem. That problem usually stemming from a lost or in-op Master key fob.

 

[Trapper50cal]

If I had hindsight when first addressing this crank but no start issue I would do these things in this order until success:

1 - Change fuses #1 and #9
2 - Identify that Master Key is successfully turning off center dash/console security light immediately upon inserting key
3 - Try the immobilizer hack
4 - Replace relay R8
5 - Install the New Under Hood Block Assembly

 

[BullElk]

But the immobilizer delete kit is for a different problem. That problem usually stemming from a lost or in-op Master key fob.

If you are referring to the “immobilizer bypass kit”, then your statement is incorrect. It was created by @medtro and is used due to the EFI fuse slot melting. Common in the ‘99-02 Hundys.

And if you replace the fuse box with the same one that fits in a ‘99-02,,… why wouldn’t it melt as well.

The bypass kit solves that issue without the ginormous coinage.

 

[medtro]

The previous owner was convinced the no start was related to the immob/ecm, even went to the trouble of shot gunning it and replaced the key coil, transformer, and the ecm. So that was where I started my diag, which eventually led to the engine room fuse box after tracing and metering the wiring.

Someone did the same thing at dealer recently, eventually got my kit to get it started.

 

[kevgentile]

Someone did the same thing at dealer recently, eventually got my kit to get it started.

I'll open the block up tomorrow. Since I just bought the truck, for the sake of time and cost I'll probably go the bypass vs a replacement unit.

Unfortunately, after all the parts thrown at it by the last owner, he hired a lock smith and opened up both ecm's. I don't know what he did.
The keys are no longer recognized by either ecm, the key light flashed continuously never steady state.
Saw a obd "reset" tool sent with some replacement ecm's. My guess it's just a "jumper" tool to reset and initialize the keys to the new unit. So looked into it and saw a yt video of someone jumping 4 and 13 with ignition on for 30 mins, going to try that.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Good Luck! So much of this stuff is clear as mud (no pun intended) and it's hard when you don't know what's been done.
I love the hundred so much, just wish it was a little more analog.

 

[medtro]

I'll open the block up tomorrow. Since I just bought the truck, for the sake of time and cost I'll probably go the bypass vs a replacement unit.

Unfortunately, after all the parts thrown at it by the last owner, he hired a lock smith and opened up both ecm's. I don't know what he did.
The keys are no longer recognized by either ecm, the key light flashed continuously never steady state.
Saw a obd "reset" tool sent with some replacement ecm's. My guess it's just a "jumper" tool to reset and initialize the keys to the new unit. So looked into it and saw a yt video of someone jumping 4 and 13 with ignition on for 30 mins, going to try that.

You may have seen this already. This test will not work for you if your key is not working or programmed properly. @Mauser will be able to help you with resetting ECM and program new keys.