Part # help - crank position sensor plug

Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Messages
454
Location
Bay Area, CA
Hey all, just noticed that 2/3 wires on my crank sensor connector are severed. The third wire is hanging by a thread. Toyota parts dept was not able to find the p/n for a replacement.

Can someone please help me figure out the part number for this? It’s the harness side female plug.

Also, any guidance on reconnecting the new plug would be super helpful.

TIA

B89ECB96-33F7-4011-A0D3-97AACC49B7A7.jpeg

D77D826B-7B10-4098-BF05-54F8AE108A88.jpeg




7A8D874B-0D24-4512-B79E-7829FD5342B4.jpeg

A1F8DF7D-8764-44B2-B86D-314626BCCC5B.jpeg
 

OGBeno

Arakawa-san
Moderator
GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 28, 2004
Messages
30,585
Location
Patagonia, Arizona, USA
There is a 5 digit number embossed on the connector.

That number is the suffix number of a Toyota part number.

Add 90980 to the front of it and you get your Toyota part number. Your parts professionals should be able to get you the splices based on the number using the electrical connector parts book (which they should have).
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Messages
454
Location
Bay Area, CA
There is a 5 digit number embossed on the connector.

That number is the suffix number of a Toyota part number.

Add 90980 to the front of it and you get your Toyota part number. Your parts professionals should be able to get you the splices based on the number using the electrical connector parts book (which they should have).
Beno, the dealer told me the same thing but I am not seeing any numbers on the connector. Either I am blind or it rubbed off? Where would be it be located on the connector typically?

E3608C54-A0DC-402E-B02C-6EA671A590B3.jpeg
91979F55-1ECA-44C5-9C3B-42529EA5675A.jpeg
0B63D82A-08E3-4769-A154-8DE0F175156C.jpeg
C6773C15-D2B1-49AE-B3C3-1F8F4C235C4D.jpeg
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Messages
454
Location
Bay Area, CA
Scratch that - found the number! Had to go from underneath to see it:

9DD73CC6-3F1C-4B98-8775-B2948BF01183.jpeg


@OGBeno does the dealer typically provide the wire pigtails with the plug? The parts guy I just talked to said they only sell the plug. How do I go about reattaching it? It’s a bear to get to so not sure how I would solder it inside the engine bay.
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Messages
454
Location
Bay Area, CA
Well, that was easy.

If your parts guys can’t figure out the splices based on the connector part number, they all need to be f***ing fired. Immediately.

Splices slip right into connector.

Sadly the local dealers have no idea when it comes to the older trucks - they admit it themselves.

Is the splice piece a separate kit? Like the terminal repair kit?
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Messages
454
Location
Bay Area, CA
Here just use this and correlate. Do the work for the clowns.




I can’t see the document you posted but really want to see it for future reference.

Just got back from the dealer. Shockingly they had the right parts in stock. This has never happened to me, ever - going to buy a lottery ticket tonight!

Thank you for the advice!

Also - any idea why the CEL is not on even though 2 of 3 wires are severed?

2DD58718-3C49-417A-855E-48D2DD5316F3.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Messages
454
Location
Bay Area, CA
Hey all, wanted to update this thread. I got the right parts at the dealer, and followed this tutorial on how to open up the new connector, insert new terminals, etc: Repair a Toyota Wire Harness - https://www.ttora.com/threads/repair-a-toyota-wire-harness.176559/

I bought a terminal disconnect kit, but it was pretty useless tbh - going to return it. Used a micro flat screwdriver instead, bent it a little to separate the connector locks.

It was a huge PITA to solder while hanging halfway down into the engine bay.

The old wires were pretty short, and it was also tricky because there are only a handful of strands of copper in each wire which made it hard to twist the old and new strands together. I was able to form solid connections with a lot of solder material, and used heat shrink wrap tubes over them. Then used a wire loom protector tube with tape over it to isolate and protect the wiring.

Interesting detail - I never got a CEL due to a disconnected sensor - drove with it severed unknowingly for about a week. During that week I noticed that my RPMs were super high (1800?) on startup while the truck was warming up. Once the sensor was reconnected, the RPMs on startup are now at 1400. Not sure if the two are interrelated, but definitely something I noticed on the first startup after repairing the sensor plug.

Hope this helps someone who is in this situation - thank you all for the advice on tracking down the right plug!

IMG_3388.JPG
 

cruisermatt

Un-manufacturable
Supporting Vendor
SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
11,219
Location
Winter Park, Florida
Website
www.facebook.com
in the future, if you have enough wire length, all the late model Toyota terminals are available from 3rd part sources like Ballenger, Mouser, KSV Looms, etc, decent crimpers can be had for $25 on Amazon and you can make it like how it was without any splices in your harness. Solder, ugh. it's not 1965 anymore.

Most of those sources will have the connector housings as they are third party Sumitomo, Yazaki etc, more selection then what Toyota lists as available as well.
Send them an email with pictures of what you need.
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Messages
454
Location
Bay Area, CA
in the future, if you have enough wire length, all the late model Toyota terminals are available from 3rd part sources like Ballenger, Mouser, KSV Looms, etc, decent crimpers can be had for $25 on Amazon and you can make it like how it was without any splices in your harness. Solder, ugh. it's not 1965 anymore.

Most of those sources will have the connector housings as they are third party Sumitomo, Yazaki etc, more selection then what Toyota lists as available as well.
Send them an email with pictures of what you need.
Thanks, good tip on the connectors.

As far as soldering - what are the other options? Butt connectors? In this case the factory wires seemed pretty thin/frail so soldering felt like the most secure connection.
 

cruisermatt

Un-manufacturable
Supporting Vendor
SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
11,219
Location
Winter Park, Florida
Website
www.facebook.com
Thanks, good tip on the connectors.

As far as soldering - what are the other options? Butt connectors? In this case the factory wires seemed pretty thin/frail so soldering felt like the most secure connection.

a properly done open-barrel splice, the same way Toyota does them all through-out your vehicle.
Finish with your appropriate adhesive-lined heat shrink.

Here's an example of one part # I keep handy in the shop, for 14-18awg, you can get them for any gauge wire.

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom