Parking break upgrade (1 Viewer)

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Why not line lock? (honest question)

I have no direct experience with them but I've read it's not good to have pressure on the caliper seals for extended periods of time. I really do need a good parking brake solution since I had to ditch the factory setup when I mounted my coilovers behind the axle - just no room whatsoever for the mechanism. I never had good luck with the factory parking brake setup on my 80, even after trying to adjust it. Not a fan of the stock setup.

Can you make us a tcase parking brake setup?? :) Here's one for the FJ60s. Can't imagine it would be that much more complicated for an 80:


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Maybe this is what I was asking about ?
Cruiser Brothers / Valley Hybrids sells the Terrain Tamer extended dogbone (strut) thingie. I bought a couple a few years back, and they did help. Not transformative, but helpful.

With new shoes that have not yet conformed to the drum ID, performance will absolutely stink. Gotta "burn-in" the shoes per the FSM bedding procedure, then readjust the shoes and bellcrank. Ditto what others have reported...these things require fairly frequent adjustment to keep working OK.
 
Cruiser Brothers / Valley Hybrids sells the Terrain Tamer extended dogbone (strut) thingie. I bought a couple a few years back, and they did help. Not transformative, but helpful.

With new shoes that have not yet conformed to the drum ID, performance will absolutely stink. Gotta "burn-in" the shoes per the FSM bedding procedure, then readjust the shoes and bellcrank. Ditto what others have reported...these things require fairly frequent adjustment to keep working OK.
Thank you for the info brother.
 
as steel is not rubber. It does not stretch to the point that the brake can't work once it is adjusted. What am I missing here?
As a cyclist, steel does stretch- brake and shifter cables both have micro adjustments and last maybe a yr or so of hard work. Same thing with a bike chain...it stretches to the point of failure.

IMO, I assume this brake cable with it's length and limited tolerance, stretches enough over the entire length of the cable to prohibit short engagement with the brake locking mechanism.
 
I had to get mine to hold to pass inspection (just has to hold at idle to pass) and the cable was stretched. Stuck a few washers where the cable attaches at the handle and it holds great . I know the cable won't last forever but it only gets used for inspection so should be good for a while still.
 
Thank you all for the info. Greatly appreciated.
 
stupid question, but why not just shorten the cable? My break works but only if I really pull the lever way back. I'm assuming if i shorten the cable I won't have to wait until way back to engage the hand brake firmly. @Halfpint has a point about these cables stretching.
 
Okay now this is awesome. Definitely on my short list of must-do mods. Having no parking brake while stopped on steep hills is quite sketchy.

hNatvNLh.jpg
 
Okay now this is awesome. Definitely on my short list of must-do mods. Having no parking brake while stopped on steep hills is quite sketchy.

hNatvNLh.jpg
Until you lose a U-joint or driveshaft while wheeling, then you've got nothing........

Driveline braking has it's place, but personally, I don't think it's on the trail.
 
Until you lose a U-joint or driveshaft while wheeling, then you've got nothing........

Driveline braking has it's place, but personally, I don't think it's on the trail.
Is this true with a center diff lock on? Even with one shaft out it should still work on the other with the center lock on would it not?
 
Is this true with a center diff lock on? Even with one shaft out it should still work on the other with the center lock on would it not?
Yes, it would.

However, with an open differential, you lift a wheel or have limited friction, and it's downhill you go!

There are advantages and disadvantages of line locks, driveline brakes, and mechanical parking brakes.
Being in a remote area, you need to evaluate worst-case scenario for each and what the real possibilities are.
Unfortunately, driveshaft damage and breakage is a real issue when doing heavy crawling.
 
They're a pain to adjust and setup properly but got mine working decently.
New pads and had to also adjust the cable at the inside handle end
 
If you’re not using OEM shoes you’re not going to get good results.
My parking break never worked to my liking, when working on the axles I noticed the shoes had plenty of pad on them but they were old and crumbling.
I didn’t want to wate so I ran down to Vatozone and pick up a set of Shoes and installed them still no good.
Next time I was ordering part I ordered OEM shoes and installed them I my parking break now works as it should even running 39s it well on steep hill. 🤷‍♂️
 

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