Parking Brake Rebuild Suggestions

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It looks like I may need to rebuild our parking brake. The typical question is "how far should I go while I'm in there." Currently, I'm not seeing any signs of leaking gear oil from the outside, but it seems that at a minimum I should replace the seal. Should I just suck it up and get a double seal kit and plan on replacing the housing as long as I'm in there? What about extra shims? Is there a preferred vendor for buying a parking brake rebuild kit, double seal kit and extra shims? I've read where some folks have had to grind the brake shoes to fit. Any other parts that I should have on hand before the deep dive?
Thanks everyoune!
 

MotorSWATCop

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Well, this is a timely thread. I've been looking into my parking brake as it currently is just something to play with opposed to a useful part of my 40. Would the two of you be so kind as to tell me where you are ordering your parts? Who's George and any other info you think might be helpful to me. Stupid question of the day... Can the parking brake be serviced while the t-case is still mounted by removing the driveshaft? Be gentle boys...;)
 
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Yes, the parking brake can be serviced while your T-case is in place. There are helpful Youtube videos but the Factory Service Manual is a go-to source. Georg is the owner of Cruiser Brothers/Valley Hybrids. He sells complete rebuild kits as do other MUD vendors. Now, if you tear into yours and find that the brake shoes are fouled with gear oil, that is often an indication that your rear output drive seal is shot (a common occurrence). You can replace the stock single seal or go with what many consider a vast improvement over OEM which is a double seal, but that requires removal and replacement of the speedometer gear housing.
Coolerman has a very good write-up here:
Thread all about Dual Seal Housing:



Good luck!
 
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Thank you! That will be helpful.
Here is some light reading for you.

FSM Parking Brake Adjustment Procedure.jpg


Parking Brake FSM.jpg
 

Skreddy

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Well, this is a timely thread. I've been looking into my parking brake as it currently is just something to play with opposed to a useful part of my 40. Would the two of you be so kind as to tell me where you are ordering your parts? Who's George and any other info you think might be helpful to me. Stupid question of the day... Can the parking brake be serviced while the t-case is still mounted by removing the driveshaft? Be gentle boys...;)
in addition to what was already said. If you can’t get the brake working by adjusting and you decide to pull the driveshaft and drum: drain the t-case oil first or it will come out the rear output all over the brake.
 

CT40

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@Green Bean looking forward to hearing how this goes. My parking brake might as well not exist - doesn't do a thing. It's on my short list to work on this winter since I won't drive most of the CT winter with all the garbage they put on the roads.
 

73FJ40

After another night of rust removal!
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"I've read where some folks have had to grind the brake shoes to fit. "

I bought an aftermarket "kit" with shoes and all the hardware, but the shoes were too big to fit the drum over.

I bought OEM shoes and the drum fit over them with no problem.

It appears the part no. for a pair of ebrake shoes, for FJ40's 6905 - 8002 is - Shoes - Toyota (46550-35014)
and list for $33.36.

I would replace all the hardware, consider replacing the cable, and without question the seal. If the drum shaft seal surface is worn, you should think about installing a speedi-sleeve.

@Coolerman has a great writeup with pictures of a transfer case rebuild, that also goes into a lot of detail on removing and reassembling the ebrake the right way.


Replace the t-case oil with GL-4, so the yellow metal components inside the case don't get dissolved in GL-5.
 
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Okay, I opened up the parking brake today. From the looks of the drum, and from reading different threads, it appears that I need a speedy sleeve. Would you agree? Is there a preferred vendor? I have a double seal kit in bound from Georg at Cruiser Brothers but I was too dumb to have ordered a speedy sleeve. I also ruined some of those little c-clip retainers while disassembling the parking brake. The tiny one holding the parking brake cable was a real pain. I would have liked to have seen how they did that on the assembly line.
Thanks.

10.30.2022.Parking Brake Drum.1.jpg


10.30.2022.Parking Brake Drum.2.jpg
 

mattressking

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Speedi-sleeve can be grabbed on Rockauto - go that way. I used SKF. Use OEM shoes, c clips for the cable and shoes. I don't see a need for a double seal - it's somewhat excessive. Speedisleeve or double seal, pick one. I prefer speedi-sleeve. Make sure you get the depth correct for sleeve and you'll be good to go. Don't forget to grease the drum seal before installing the drum if they aren't pre-greased from Toyota/whichever vendor for seal you choose.

To me the real fix for the drum seal surface is having someone tig a bead on the seal surface and machine the surface down...but that's more in-depth, however superior to any other method.

This is a quick and easy service. Paint all the parts while you're at it so you can easily inspect later for issues.
 

mattressking

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Just read thru Coolermans t-case Tear down thread……..a little intimidating. I need to re seal my t- case and I am trying to muster the courage to tackle it myself. Although a call to Marks off-road to see if he something rebuilt or buildable may be my preferred option.
 

Skreddy

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Was trying to find the receipt for when I sleeved my 1971 but can’t. I agree with @mattressking and I use SKF sleeves when I use them. I looked up their brochure to find one that met the measurement criteria of my drum at that time.
 

cruiseroutfit

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We stock all the necessary rebuild parts @ Cruiser Outfitters

Shoes:

Hardware Kit:

Nut:
 

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