Parking brake/bellcrank hint and comments

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Feb 12, 2004
North Texas
I had the typical no parking brake worky because the bellcrank is frozen issue. I decided to tear into this job and found that it was actually very easy (this was my first time to work on drum brakes).

1. Buy new drum set screws. These are the philips-head screws that keep the drum in place before the wheel is secured with the lug nuts. They were very difficult to remove and almost completely stripped out before they came loose. I replaced them with new ones so the next time they are removed I will be assured they come loose.

2. The drums, brake shoes, and all other brake components seemed to be in great condition and by no means needed replacing. So, I was able to move the rear shoe out of the way to access the bellcrank bolts (2 at ~10 mm) without having to take apart the entire brake assembly.

3. Once the bellcranks were out, I cleaned them up the best I could until they operated smoothly, and packed them with some high-temp antiseize. Once they were reistalled I checked the operation of the parking brake and star wheel adjustment. Everything worked great.

The brakes work great and it is nice having a functional parking brake again. I had no trouble adjusting the brakes. Just go forward and reverse and use the parking brake several times. One intersting note about this adjustment is that the Haynes manual goes into an elaborate preadjustment before you reinstall the brake drum. The FSM, however, states to adjust the the adjuster to the shortest possible length and reinstall the drum. Follow the FSM because the brakes automatically adjust via the parking brake.

Well, this is a common problem in 60/62s so I hopes this helps.


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