park brake

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Apr 24, 2003
can someone out there give me info on the "transmission handbrake" on my hj45, i assume it's the same as other transmission handbrakes on Fj's

a couple of questions, 1 what does it look like, in the case that i need to pull it apart to redo the shoes/ pads whatever. any1 got some pics???

2 can i get at it without pulling the transmission/ transfer case.

3 is it more likely to be stretched cable or worn shoes/ whatever that means it doesn't work.

i got a little over a month to get this mofo back to roadworthy, or then it's full inspection time
Well on pre '82 I think Fj's the handbrake is a drum mounted to the rear output shaft of the transfer. If you look at the top of the rear d-shaft you will see a drum looking thing in between the upper u-joint and the back of the transfer. Look under your HJ and tell us what you see. Also, what year is your HJ?
The guts are the same regardless of year. If the rear output on the t-case has a drum, then it has the transfer mounted brake. Some non US cruisers still get the old style brake until 1984 (even the 60 series).

Very easy to get to, just pull the rear driveline, undo the big nut that holds it to the shaft*. No pulling transfer cases out. Most of these brakes don't work because of oil contamination of the shoes. &nbsp:Drain the transfer case oil, and pull the backing plate off (4 bolts), and replace the seal. Then replace the parking brake shoes.

Somebody needs to do a tech webpage on this. Why don't you be the one?


*best done with an air impact wrench to undo the stake on the nut
what he said, but drain the transfer case oil before removing the big nut, because the drum slides over the output shaft splines and the oil seal seals against the outside of the drum, so when you pull it, the oil comes out too. I did mine last weekend. Might be a good idea to get a new punch nut as well - the seal and nut should come to <$5 all up.

also, dont over tighten the 4 bolts holding the drum backing plate to the transfer case, if they break from stress, you have to pull the lot on the side of the road. (i done that a few times :))

you might also want to spend 5mins making a dolly for fitting the oil seal, I just bolted two blocks of pine together with a hole in the middle just big enough for the output shaft. it saved many obscenities.

thanks for that, it's a 1980 hj

i won't be near the hj for a couple of weeks, i just know it's a job to be done,

along with, patchin a major rust hole in the floor and trying to hide it from the road worthy inspectors, maybe changing front shocks, new shackle rubbers, fix, disguise an oil leak, do the whole brake system. remount the clutch master (i stole it for my fj :)) and fix the muffler. maybe need 10 new seatbelts (11 seater)

that's good news on the handbrake, someone told me it'd take dropping out the transfer case. it may just be a super stretched cable, sometimes the fact a diesel is really hard to stall can cause damage, like when you take off up a sand dune in H4 with the handbrake on, and somehow make it.
First check the adjuster nut on the forward side of the brake, this might solve your problem. Failing that the relining of the shoes is cheap. Here it cost the equivalent of US$10 for both shoes.

Good luck with the roadworthy guys, over here they are real strict. Will fail you for anything :tear:
Is it possible to get these re-shoed in the US or is it a lost art? The old guys here say those shops are all closed now. I don't wanna $62 for the kit.
thanks guys.  the roadworthy testing down here depends on who does it. some guys are corrupt, and say for x amount, i'll say it's roadworthy, some guys just check safety stuff, like brakes, oil leaks, shocks and seatbelts. and some go crazy, claiming things like surface rust is a huge safety issue.  that's the reason my hj if off the road.  it has 3 rust holes, and some surface rust, and no brakes, he tried to charge me 1000 for brakes, 4grand for body repairs, or i could sell it to him as a scrap car for a grand.  considering a good H diesel goes for about 5000 aus down here...

then he said if i do sell it to him, he'll help me buy a CHEAP alternative from his friend.

but not is all lost, it did lead me to my shorty
Very easy to get to, just pull the rear driveline, undo the big nut that holds it to the shaft*. *best done with an air impact wrench to undo the stake on the nut

what size? i'm going to have to buy one of these big boys, but which size is it?
maybe changing front shocks, new shackle rubbers, fix, disguise an oil leak, do the whole brake system. remount the clutch master (i stole it for my fj ) and fix the muffler.
Front Dampers from Super Cheap Auto $93.40
Steering Damper from Super Cheap Auto $68.17

I got a Quote for an Exhaust to go from the Exhaust Manifold to then exit infront of the rear right Tyre with a Straight Through(Hot Dog) Silencer for $150 - $175 fitted.

To tighten up the Hand Brake. &nbsp:Do I turn the Nut, Clockwise or Anticlockwise?
he he go super cheap. but even cheaper. steal shocks from my fj40. 0$$ i'd still love to find the size of the big nut that holds the hand brake assembly together b4 i go out and buy the wrong size

. had to put my drive shaft on b4 to take for brake test drive. stands on it's nose now, but found another cylinder in the rear left has kicked the bucket. but at least i can swap an entire drum assembly in a couple of minutes. and adjust and bleed it quicker than i have the right to.

havent looked at rear right yet, but so far i've replaced the whole brake system except for 1 wheel cylinder.
tomorrow hopefully the brakes will be finished, then rust, then swap shocks. then adjust clutch off the floor. then degrease engine and id the leak. and maybe do the handbrake. need a new muffler though. has a hole in it i can almost stick my head through. sounds tough though, big truck diesel sound.

was good to drive it again today. different to a shrimp fj40
finally done the brake. handbrake next
Jonathan, the adjuster nut is: to tighten, turn counterclockwise.
ok, for the record.

drive shaft nuts x4. 14mm. i found ring spanner easiest, cause sockets got stuck, and my ratchet was no good for breaking those beuties the first turn.

big brass looking nut in middle of drum. 28mm socket.

then inside problems could be. stretched cable, worn shoes, lubricant in the drum, or what happened to me, one of the pins used to hold the drum shoe to the levering device came out due to busted C clip. waiting on a C clip to fix it with.

and in the process of droping the tail shaft, one guy came over to ask me if i was interested in selling the engine, and one guy tried to support my habit and offered me his mint 1973 Fj. charging too much for my buget though.

why is it when you start working on your junk, cruiser heads come out from the woodwork.

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