Solved - Parasitic Drain (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 11, 2003
Threads
170
Messages
712
Hey Guys,

Working on a family member's '02 100 with 222k. With COVID the truck wasn't being driven every day and the battery died. It probably sat a week before I had a chance to look at it. Murphy paid a visit and once I got it charged up and running a fuel line blew 🤪. Fixed that and got her going again. Alternator showed 15 volts. Put in a new battery and dash lit up like a Christmas tree w/ABS, BRAKE, TRAC, etc. Cycled a few times and this went away but then came back, so I went to road test and bam- blew a brake line 🤣. Too funny. So dropped in two new hard lines, bled everything up and thought we'd be good to go. The ABS and Brake and another light still come on when I drive (thinking speed sensor on one wheel), but the bigger problem - finally right - is that the battery dies overnight.

I've charged it up a few times and it still drains. Today I hooked up my ammeter and found a ~ -2.5 amp parasitic drain. I pulled every fuse and relay in the large fuse box under the hood but the amps remained at -2.5. I then pulled each fuse one by one from the kick panel fuse box and still no change -2.5 amps. The only two fuses I know of that I couldn't remove for fear of breaking them were the two main fuses connected directly to the positive battery terminal.
 
Last edited:
Solved! New alternator fixed all of the above. Likely bad voltage regulator or rectifier but done. Also, for anyone finding this, I chose not to pull the radiator as Toyota recommends. I came in through the bottom and did have to remove power steering pump in order to remove alternator and reinstall a new one. And note that the lower bolt on the alternator has a nut on the back and is not threaded into the block like the power steering pump bolts or the threaded stud on the top alternator bolt. Cheers!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom