Paint Suggestions? (1 Viewer)

[srgould41]

I am in the process of rebuilding my hard top. The whole rig will be done a piece at a time. I am trying to figure out how I want to handle the painting of the pieces. I don't have the gear myself, nor the real desire to learn to paint so I'll try to find a small shop that won't try to eat me alive in labor costs.

My 1971 40 has been repainted from pastel green to British racing green with some metal flake in it. I really like the color so I am going to keep it, but the whole rig will need painting. I am building a trail rig, but I do care that it look decent. The finish will need to stand up to lots of Northwest Pin Striping (branch scratches). I assume I will want a hard paint with lots of clear over the top.

I have some questions.

1. Can I buy enough paint from a supplier and have it last for a year?

2. Can I get away with using it to paint each piece as I finish with it and have it still look OK?

3. What paint would you all suggest? Brands, types, etc...


Thanks for your advice.

Steve

 

[3jvj]

1. Yes. As long as you don't mix the hardener and reactive agent to the whole can of paint. You will be further ahead buying a gallon and having it broken down to quarts for storage so the mix ratios will be easier.

2. You will have to be perfect in your flake ratio, and I doubt any old shop will be precise (even shooting in a different direction can change fleck sheen/reflection) so pick a very good guy. Go very fine particle to help avoid problems.

3. du-pont


I would just pick a primer that you can deal with and not be to offended by. Use a couple decent coats. When you are done with all the work sand it down and have them shoot the whole thing.


There is also a company that is putting "real" auto body paint into rattle cans. You could do it at home with some practice. For that matter; priming the whole thing two or three times would probably be enough practice.

 

[copasspupil]

Metallic paints need to be painted along the same parallel. This does not mean that the parts need to be attached but just close enough to each other to get the same pattern on the flake. Most shops hang the parts close enough to each other to get the right pattern.

Since you are local, go see Jay at Wesco in Auburn and they will take care of you. They can even suggest someone local to do it for you. Scott is helpful but Jay is the guy to talk to about painting questions.

Painting is not hard just need lots of patience.

I did this on my first try:

PM me if you have any questions.

 

[Weedhopper]

Tower paint sells automotive paint in rattle cans.

 

[TMACK]

Look into "Spies Hecker" products.

 

[bsmith123]

paint

The finish will need to stand up to lots of Northwest Pin Striping (branch scratches). I assume I will want a hard paint with lots of clear over the top.


metal flake with clearcoat will be hard to touch up and make it match, after the scratches.

Have a look at single stage polyurethane and see what you think it is tough and you can buff out scratches and it would be easier to touch up

also you can control the gloss with hardeners or fine sanding

 

[makomark]

I agree with bsmith123, a base/clear would be hard to touch up. If you are set on using a base/clear, i just painted mine in Freeborn Red using Omni. It cost only about $125/gallon plus the hardner and clearcoat compared to PPG Deltron which is $400/gal. The problem i see of not spraying in a real spray booth is that the environmental conditions can really screw you up. I would suggest that you do all the prep work and take it to a shop and have them spray it. Spraying is quick plus maybe they can buy the paint for you with their discount.

 

[srgould41]

It does sound like I should forget the metal flake. No problem there. I like it, but not enough to deal with the issues.

So a single stage poly would hold up well and not need clear coats to protect it?