Paint stripping and bolts/nuts removal ideas? (1 Viewer)

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Hi folks, I just started disassembling an FJ40 and noticed some bolts are covered in old crusty paint and so rusty too. Looking for ideas to get rid of the paint and take the bolts out. I tried with an impact screw driver but it doesn't seem to work, I think is because of the paint not allowing it. Any help will be really appreciated
 
Although you've stated you've tried the impact screwdriver, I can say I've had good luck with such a tool - especially at those large screws on the windshield frame hinges, and an imact bit to knock the hinge pins loose on the doors....

I think everyone will say to hit them with some kroil or PB Blaster or similar and let them sit for a while to get down into the rusted-tight threads.
Just depends on where you're working and what tools/lubricants are possible in that area. There are some areas that are amenable to heat, but if you're on the body... probably not.

Anyway, there's no one magic formula that I've found, and I've suffered any number of broken bolts. Hope this is somewhat helpful. Perhaps tell the community exactly which bolts you're stuck with and we can tell you what other pieces to remove first to allow for leverage or take some weight off the union.

HTH, Travis.-
 
Hi folks, I just started disassembling an FJ40 and noticed some bolts are covered in old crusty paint and so rusty too. Looking for ideas to get rid of the paint and take the bolts out. I tried with an impact screw driver but it doesn't seem to work, I think is because of the paint not allowing it. Any help will be really appreciated
You could try using a sharp razor knife and awl to scrap off the paint, and clean out the groves for screws / sides for bolts.

After working on my truck for a couple of years, I learned about the JIS standard that Toyotas and other makes use. While the screws in our trucks may look like a standard phillips head, they're slightly different, and warrant a different tool. Google "JIS screw driver" and you should find some good options. Believe there was a thread posted recently with good info on JIS stuff.

Also, I highly recommend using 6-point sockets, rather than 12 point. They seem to get a better grip on bolts, which is a critical factor when trying to extract something that's stuck.

@M1A1cruiser has good suggestions - post up some pics of what you're working on, and what you're working with, and you should get some more good info and help.
 
Depending on your plans for paint, a loss/open blasting gun works well, both to clean the heads as well as any exposed threads. Cheap but effective...just throw the hose in a 5 gallon bucket of media. Don't need a big compressor for small jobs like that either. It does make a bit of a mess to clean up afterward, though, and you'll want to cover up to avoid the flying media.

Amazon product ASIN B07FZ35PBG
That said, this only works for stuff you're planning to repaint vs preserve patina...but it is also handy in general around the shop.
 
Don’t use an powered impact for what you describe. Get a proper fitting screwdriver as stated, try to get an JIS… super helpful in this situation.

in the meantime, use the closest fitting you can scrounge and hit the screwdriver with a large hammer while attempting to turn it. Control it…hit it and you should be able to get them out. Don’t rush it.

On Amazon you can purchase a ‘impact JIS screwdriver’…not a powered one.
 
Thanks for your help. With lock pliers I was able to take the rear doors bolts (unfortunately one bolt head broke leaving the threads inside).
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Now I'm struggling with the bolts of he windshield frame. I was able to take one out using the impact screwdriver but there are other 3 that I'm not able to take out (already remover the outer paint with a flat screwdriver and put some lubricant on them). Same case with the bolts for the cap of the air blower.
16377176201906875848765183628432.jpg

16377176658112169910859944065135.jpg


Last but not least, struggling with one of the 4 bolts that go with the fenders and chassis (now the head is rounded and the socket cannot take it anymore).
16377178898867931262598879139371.jpg
 
Yes, you’ve got some problems…but likely solvable with patience and the right stuff. Do your best to NOT BREAK any more bolts.

Get yourself some type of good rust penetrating spray. I think Kroil is the best…but you likely will need to order on line. Readily available is PB Blaster and/or Liquid Wrench…both very good.

The problem you will have is getting the stuff actually on the threads. Clean the heads up the very best you can and then ‘aim’ the penetrant into the threads as best you can. The better this part…the better the results.

And go slow when actually using the tool…turn the bolt or screw in BOTH directions. Just a bit back and forth, then spray some more. Repeat.

Good Luck.
 
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Use Kroil….. soak the bolts and anything you want to remove.
My method, before work, spray them down…. Get home from work, spray them down…

Do this, 2-3 days.

When/if they come out…. Slowly remove a few threads… then spray again.

Patience is your friend.
 
If you're doing this a lot, 50/50 acetone/ATF mix. Spray then impact driver with the correct JIS tip for the screws. Soak for a day or so or more and recoat to relieve the corrosion.
 
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Use Kroil….. soak the bolts and anything you want to remove.
My method, before work, spray them down…. Get home from work, spray them down…

Do this, 2-3 days.

When/if they come out…. Slowly remove a few threads… then spray again.

Patience is your friend.
Kroll is great
 
Kroll and heat. Use both for siezed bolts. Heat works amazingly well.
 
If you're doing this a lot, 50/50 acetone/power steering fluid. Spray then impact driver with the correct JIS tip for the screws. Soak for a day or so or more and recoat to relieve the corrosion.
This
 
This air chisel technique worked for me last week on windshield screws that had stripped. This was after soaking with a mix of ATF fluid and acetone out of a harbor freight oil can.

 
If you're doing this a lot, 50/50 acetone/ATF mix. Spray then impact driver with the correct JIS tip for the screws. Soak for a day or so or more and recoat to relieve the corrosion.
I mix mine 3 ways adding 1/3 diesel by volume to the acetone & ATF. It penetrates better and is more effective than any over the counter product I’ve tried.
 
If a head is already messed up anyway weld another nut on top of it - the heat of the weld and then cooling does wonders for breaking them loose.
 
It will always be tricky getting a good electrical ground, but a weld puddle, or a welded nut hasn't been a problem for screw removal. Even around paint, it is not too scarring. A TIG torch, or stick welding is what I reach for first, because, breaking the captive nuts on many of these body panels is something that I don't know how to fix, and the welding process is the least amount of force needed to remove the screw.

Cover your glass from weld spatter. And, if you have to remove weld spatter from glass, a tiny bit of spray oil (avoid weatherstrip) and a wood chisel or utility razor followed by 0000 steel wool will get your glass clean and smooth - so it doesn't damage your windshield wiper or ice scraper blade, and it cleans without streak or catching lint from rags.
 
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I sucked it up and bought this. It is amazing for what you need. The shaft has nut on it that allows you to place a wrench on it and turn while you press the screw driver onto the Phillips head.

Amazon product ASIN B07ZJ1QZFT
 
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^^^

And that shaft that allows you to turn it with a wrench makes a Whole lot if difference.👍
 
I sucked it up and bought this. It is amazing for what you need. The shaft has nut on it that allows you to place a wrench on it and turn while you press the screw driver onto the Phillips head.

Amazon product ASIN B07ZJ1QZFT
I bought the cheaper Vessel set and all it has on the shaft is some knurling. A hex nut there would be far more useful.
 

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