paint questions: going for the TLC Icon look (1 Viewer)

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I'm not going for the charcoal colored Icon that you normally think about, but the tan one (see pic). I want paint that is really tough, rust resistant and/or easy to touch up. I don't really want it to be glossy. Any ideas?

Here's a few options that I've been thinking about:

1. prime in a couple coats of epoxy primer, then top coat with flat camo tan (rattle can). The tan might not be super tough, but the primer would protect the metal underneath right? and touch up of the color would be super easy.

2. use a normal automotive base coat/clearcoat in tan, except use matte clear coat or a flattening agent.

3. find some military desert tan (CARC paint). The warnings on this stuff are really bad. Is it that much worse than your typical automotive paint?

4. top coat in tan epoxy floor paint. I'd definitely want to shoot it, not roll it. Anyone with experience doing this?

Any suggestions?

This is my first solo paint job. I helped my dad with a couple paint jobs 10-15 years ago, but that's really my only experience.
TLC_Icon_tan.jpg
 
Have you considered a tintable bed liner material like U-pol? If you shoot it at the correct PSI you can get a pretty smooth finish. I coated my entire FZJ80 with the stuff and would do it again.
 
Check out Hot Rod Flatz. There's a thread about it. If memory serves me correctly, ICON powdercoats their panels.

Also check out 1LoudLX's 100 in the 100 section. Normal paint, minus the clearcoat can give you the look your going for.
 
The CARC is applied straight from the can, with no thinners etc. We had our tan MRAP painted black using CARC. The guys who painted it made no mention of it being any harder to use than automotive paint...they were not professionals but had painted other vehicles in the past.

For the "backyard" job we got, it turned out pretty good...good enough for my 40, if I ever chose to go that way...
 
I am getting ready to pain a flat dune beige on my cruiser here in the next couple of days. I am using a single stage paint, when he mixes it for me he is adding a flatting agent to the paint to give it a flat look. I belive it will have a little clear left to give it some UV protection. The way we are going about it is new to the paint guy so we will see, but I have talked to guys that have used it and they have had very good look.
 
I am getting ready to pain a flat dune beige on my cruiser here in the next couple of days. I am using a single stage paint, when he mixes it for me he is adding a flatting agent to the paint to give it a flat look. I belive it will have a little clear left to give it some UV protection. The way we are going about it is new to the paint guy so we will see, but I have talked to guys that have used it and they have had very good look.

Do you have a build thread going with pics?
 
I used rattle can flat camo tan on my FJ40. I really like the way it looks, it hides imperfections well, and it is easy to touch up. It is not a rough finish right out of the can- just flat. It does fade after sitting in the sun. I'll try and dig up pics of when I first painted and current condition.
 
Pic after painting with flat camo kahki tan. Note the difference in the body vs. windshield. I painted the windshield single stage pawnee tawn. I'll have to snap some current pics when it stops raining:mad:
Flare%20with%2035-1250-15.JPG
 
Pic after painting with flat camo kahki tan. Note the difference in the body vs. windshield. I painted the windshield single stage pawnee tawn. I'll have to snap some current pics when it stops raining:mad:

I couldn't tell the color difference from the image you posted, so I took the liberty of clearing it up a bit:
Flare%20with%2035-1250-15.jpg
 
Ok, I found this company (Top Secret Coatings) and have ordered a quart of their TS-66 Supreme Urethane in 427 Gulf, Satin.

https://www.topsecretcoatings.com/auto-ts-66.html

https://www.topsecretcoatings.com/TSC-ColorChart.html

I did find a couple complaints against the company and a not very good BBB rating, but I'm going to ignore it (against my better judgement). I guess I'm going to be a guinea pig, because there don't seem to be many options. I'll shoot the backside of my hood and let you know what I think about it.
 
I got my TSC paint in and painted the backside of my hood and both sides of the bib. I like it. The color isn't exactly what I was going for but close enough. I have a gallon more on it's way.

The color is gulf, gloss level is satin.
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What don't you like about the color?
 
Its a little lighter than I wanted. Also, it has a hint of green. The jury's still out though, because I haven't put 2 or 3 coats on it yet. The can has a sample of the color on it and it is darker than what I sprayed. I'm thinking that it will get darker with another coat.
 
The problem with CARC is not putting it on, it's when it chips off and is inhaled that it kills you. You have to take great care if you ever grind any off to add a bumper or even drill a hole to add anything. I would shy away from CARC and go with a thick undercoat and a rattle can cover.
 
if you can get dupont paint theres a satin black #4428L that was used on the old dodge hemi hoods this will hold up to the uv's easy to touch up and will last for years to come. good luck and have fun.
 
Update on the Top Secret Coatings--the gallon I ordered after I used the initial quart ended up being glossy. They seem to be handling the error appropriately and sending me the correct Satin like I ordered.

The gloss looked horrible. I haven't been super concerned with dust particles landing on the paint with the satin. With gloss, you can see every one. I'll sand it and paint over it with satin, once it comes in.
 

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