Curious how you guys have painted your motor/tranny/transfer. It’s currently sitting on my garage floor about ready to go back into the finished chassis. When I pulled it out everything ran fine, no leaks at all and it had been rebuilt prior so I’m hesitant to start tearing things apart just to paint it “the right way.” Although I’ve already torn down and rebuilt the entire chassis, re-zinced all the hardware, etc, etc, so at this point it’s pretty much a full resto. With that said, it would save a lot of time/effort/money just masking things and spraying it all together. I guess if it didn’t turn out quite like I want I can always tear it apart and repaint. Any success or failure stories, pics, etc. are appreciated
Paint motor/tranny/transfer... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lmajor32
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thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Do you have an HVLP paint rig or have plans to get one?
I used duplicolor rattlecan engine paint on my SBC transplanted into a 76 40. So far it's held up fine. Since then I've started using single stage paint because I like tge durability. Don't see why it wouldn't work on all your drivetrain. @Splangy seems to have lots of paint knowledge. Maybe he'll chime in on what's best.
I used duplicolor rattlecan engine paint on my SBC transplanted into a 76 40. So far it's held up fine. Since then I've started using single stage paint because I like tge durability. Don't see why it wouldn't work on all your drivetrain. @Splangy seems to have lots of paint knowledge. Maybe he'll chime in on what's best.
Eastwood engine paint on my 350, trans is black, transfer case bare aluminum.
- Thread starter
- #4
Looks great. I do have a gun that I plan to use and some 2 stage satin industrial paint that I used on my axles etc. I think my biggest concern was how difficult it will be to mask everything and what it will turn out looking like in the end. Don’t want it to look half assed.
macdaddy59
SILVER Star
I also used Eastwood engine paint as it is a 2 stage urethane and rated to 600 F. Yep masking everything off is real time consuming and tedious but there is no other way around it unless you are going to disassemble everything. Aluminum foil works great to wrap around all of the irregular shaped parts.
I also used Eastwood two-part, but I took mine fully down for a machining and a rebuild.
Seems like you should be able to at least split the trans off the engine without much hassle - shouldn't be any gaskets there to replace that I recall.
Seems like you should be able to at least split the trans off the engine without much hassle - shouldn't be any gaskets there to replace that I recall.
To pull the bell housing you need to pull the flywheel. And then you've got a "while I'm in there" problem. Sure, they come apart almost easily, putting it all back together is one of the hardest jobs on a LandCruiser.
You can do a heck of a masking job in the time it would take you to stab the tranny back into the engine.
If it's running fine and not leaking, leave well enough alone.
You can do a heck of a masking job in the time it would take you to stab the tranny back into the engine.
If it's running fine and not leaking, leave well enough alone.
- Thread starter
- #9
That's the kind of expert advice I was hoping to get! Thank you
It's all relative...you don't have it down that far all that often, so it's somewhat a bit of what are you looking to get. Hardware is the one that really results in a "full on good" job vs a quick spray to me.
If you're replating hardware elsewhere, seems like you're in in pretty deep already...so I'd probably go the extra mile and pull it apart a smidge to get that last bit, but that's me. (Pull the lifter cover, pull the oil pan, etc) Gaskets are cheap and easy when it's sitting in the stand and not the frame, IMHO.
But it's all what you're aiming for and want to see when you pop that hood...your rig, your level of detail. There is no right or wrong answer, of course. Also depends on just when the last rebuild was - last year vs 10 years ago would make a difference.
EDIT: also, when was the last clutch job/how's the clutch?
If you're replating hardware elsewhere, seems like you're in in pretty deep already...so I'd probably go the extra mile and pull it apart a smidge to get that last bit, but that's me. (Pull the lifter cover, pull the oil pan, etc) Gaskets are cheap and easy when it's sitting in the stand and not the frame, IMHO.
But it's all what you're aiming for and want to see when you pop that hood...your rig, your level of detail. There is no right or wrong answer, of course. Also depends on just when the last rebuild was - last year vs 10 years ago would make a difference.
EDIT: also, when was the last clutch job/how's the clutch?
- Thread starter
- #11
Was planning to mask and use foil well. The issue I ran into was when I started prepping it yesterday with acetone the old paint just started wiping off so was a mess
I can’t tell you how much I’ve pondered all of that over the course this whole thing. It started as a repaint, then body off, now full restore. The motor tranny clutch etc was rebuilt prior so it’s all in good running order with no leaks etc. so that’s why I was hesitant to pull it all apart. I’m confident I can do a good job painting it together but what resparked pulling it apart (this time) was when I started to prep it for paint. All of the current blue paint started just wiping off of the oil pan etc with acetone so obviously was not the best paint job…just a single stage rattle can prob however long ago it was done. Decisions decisions
i always think of this when someone asks about engine painting ideas!!
Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot restore, courage to restore the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference.
Por 15 engine enamel kit.
