Paint code for '97 FZJ80 Collector's Edition wheel (1 Viewer)

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mdawg

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Jun 13, 2014
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Location
The Colony, TX
Hi, all,

This is my first post!

I bought a '97 FZJ80 Collector's Edition back in April. This is my first and only Land Cruiser and I am completely hooked on the whole Land Cruiser thingy. I bought it with 241K on the odometer. All stock, fully loaded, including factory diff lockers. So far I have base-lined most of the fluids (both diffs, tcase, tranny, engine), serviced the front axle (kit from Marlin Crawler - dang that was the messiest job I have ever done!), and replaced the front brake pads and rotors, along with some other minor stuff. Serious fun.

First off, I have to give major props to all of the contributors to this forum; there is so much GREAT information here I haven't had to ask a question until now. And I couldn't have done the front axle job without absorbing all the great info in the forum. Thank you all! This is a fun place to be!

So, here's my question: Does anyone happen to know what the paint code is (or how to find it) for the '97 Collector's Edition or 40th Anniversary wheels?

The '97 Collector's Edition/40th Anniversary package came with wheels that had the "D" windows in the wheel painted a dark gray. My LC has wheels that are pre-1995; I know (or am guessing) this based upon the wheel flange caps that it came with (I have since replaced the caps with the ones used from 1995 to 1997). Funny thing is that the spare wheel has the "D" window painted, so it seems that a PO swapped out the wheels at some point (I'm sure that's a story in and of itself).

So, now I want to paint my existing wheel's "D" window so that they match the original stock specs. The part number for the 40th Anniversary wheel is 42611-60160.

Here's a pic of the area I am referring to:

photo.JPG


I've checked several places already, like:
  • local dealerships - their systems don't seem to identify the paint code
  • google
  • this forum
  • toyotareference website
Thanks for any info, guys!
 
I believe the wheels are just clear coated. I stripped my wheels and don't recall removing any paint.
 
Was it the same paint code as the bumpers??
 
Bone stock Collectors Series, looked like the bumper corner color
image.jpg
 
I could tell you the internal code for the color, but it would have no meaning outside of the tech center.
It would look best if you just do all 5 wheels at the same time with whatever color you want. Something close to the bumper corners would be OK.
Personally, I like the darker greys for the window openings.
 
The wheel window color was never publicly published. The wheels came painted under a different part number. I would not be surprised if the bumper color is "close enough".
 
looks like you have the lighter silver paint from your pictures. I believe there were only two colors. One was the silver the other is the darker greyish color on saddletramp's truck...

If yours are the lighter silver, it is still the same color as the light silver wheels most of the cars have today. You should be able to find someone to refinish them at a reasonable price, or at least get a color to match. If you can find a silver wheel cover or center cap, you should be able to match to that. If the paint on your center caps is clean, you can match to that for the best result.
 
I have found Duplicolor silver wheel paint to be an almost perfect match for the hub caps. Duplicolor also has a dark silver wheel paint that would accent the wheel windows nicely however it is not the same shade as the 40th/Collector window color.
 
Despite it being a "Collector's Edition," I would use whatever color makes you happy.
I doubt we'll see one of these at a Barret-Jackson Auction...

The way these are painted at the plant, the wheels are machined, painted in primer, painted in color, machined(very lightly) on the face and then painted with clear. The second machining step is tough to get right when they are refinished.

Whatever you do, make sure to mask off the lug nut seats and the mounting face of the wheel. These areas should be free from paint to avoid the nuts from loosening during use.
 
The factory clear is extremely hard. Is it like a powder coat?
 
It is a powdercoat and it is very hard. The industry standard for paint coating hardness is to use a pencil to mark it. Typically wheel paint is around 2H minimum. This, along with other internal specs, prevents rock chips and delamination of the layers. There is also a special anti-corrosion pretreatment done to the bare aluminum to prevent corrosion growth in the event of a curb scrub or rock chip.

This paint is no joke. If there is very little corrosion on the wheel, my recommendation would be a thorough cleaning with a blue scotchbrite(no scratch) and see how it looks. Then polishing compound will make it shine up real nice without compromising any of the paint that is there. If it makes you feel better, clean off that wax with solvent to get it all off and cover with a UV resistant clear(to prevent yellowing).
 
Is that type of coating commercially availabe at, say, your local powercoater?

IE I spiff up my wheels and get them re-cleared the "right" way?
 
You probably could put a new layer of clear powder coat over your existing wheels. They would have to be pretty defect free to look good though. The original wheels likely have acrylic clear powder on them which is very "clear" with the slightest blue tint. It's harder powder than most but a tiny bit more chip prone. Most coaters will likely use polyester clear which is very good stuff but has the slightest yellow cast, though you likely won't notice. The pretreatment for bare aluminum is a water based cleaner with flouric acid to strip off oxides. To coat over existing finish, a thorough red scotch Brite scuffing will be sufficient prep to apply clear powder over the wheels. There are also a few shops about that will totally restore your wheels- strip, base coat the windows, lathe cut the face, clear powder.
 
Funny to catch this post now. First thing in the a.m., I was planning on refinishing my c.e. wheels with dark grey windows and chrome powder on the face with clear over it all. I'll do some pics and post it up.
 
ces and 40th had trimmed wheels.

What do you mean when you say they had "trimmed" wheels?

Couple questions, I plan on doing this as well. any pics or best practices in order to get the best results? I was planning on just taping everything off. is it necessary to sand and prime the windows or can you just clean and paint?
 
Is that type of coating commercially availabe at, say, your local powercoater?

IE I spiff up my wheels and get them re-cleared the "right" way?

Dan, I don't know how I missed your last comment, and I believe we discussed this on the phone, but I'll post it since this thread is alive again. The pre-treatment should be available any place that regularly paints raw aluminum. It is proprietary to Henkel(and other specialty cleaning companies) so I don't know the exact chemical composition, but I'd guess it is a zinc chromate. Next steps are primer, color, clear. Each wheel manufacturer uses a different paint process and may mix powder paint and wet paint in different steps.

@Lgc285 If you're just going to use a rattle can, all you need to do is clean, scuff, clean and paint. If the current coating isn't compromised/corroded, no worries.
 
ok thanks. I was planning on using a dark grey rattle can on just the windows to save some $$ and get the look of a 40th wheel. the wheels are in really good shape overall.. after the scuff and dark grey rattle can on the windows, would you recommend a professional clear powder coat on the whole wheel as stated above? or would a rattle can clear coat sprayed on just the windows suffice?
trying to get it done right so they look good/last. appreciate your recommendations.
 
*Bump*

Evening Mud :flipoff2:

Does anyone have a 97 collector's edition spare wheel they're willing to part with I'd like to replace my steel spare.

Thanks 🍻
 

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