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Paint Bubbling Question

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by kacers, Oct 29, 2003.

  1. kacers

    kacers

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    After years of waiting, I have finally started serious shopping for the FJ40 I've always wanted. So far, I've seen three at various price ranges that all claimed to have some form of restoration done recently. All had fresh paint with several areas of paint bubbling - ususally on the bottom side of the doors, qtr panels, fenders, etc..where you'd expect to see it pre-restoration. My question is, can you tell (or guess) if this is caused simply by shotty rust repair and prep work before the recent paint or if it is caused by normal rust damage due to salt exposure as all vehicles were in the NEast where salt is used on our winter roads. In almost all cases, it appeared to be surface defects on the paint and not rust-thru though I couldn't poke around too much.

    I can deal with fixing someone else's mistake (after I beat them down on price). But I am concerned that no amount of restoration will help prevent future rust from driving on salt-treated roads. I don't want to give up my dream of the FJ40 but need a 4x4 I can drive in the snow. For instance, of I put a new steel fender on, had it properly primed and painted, and then drove it on salt-treated roads with normal washing cleaning after each use, should I expect rust? If so, How soon? Is there any way to help prevent it during the restoration process?

    Any thoughts, suggestions, or experience from those who drive their 40's on sale-treated roads would be really appreciated.
    Regards,
    A
     
  2. Chase77

    Chase77

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    I know purists would disagree but why not hold out till you can find one with an aluminum tub or buy one with a rotted tub and install an alum tub yourself/have it done. If you are in the NE, www.cruisersolutions.com is in your neighborhood. Good luck with your search.
     
  3. toddslater

    toddslater

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    Don't kid yourself them bubbles just be the tip of the ice... :doh:rustberg... I looked for over a year at 40's in the NE. Everyone that was for sale...except one needed tubbed and then some. If it's spent it's life in the salt belt..it'll be rusty. You may find one that has been imported from more kind environs...but expect to pay for the quality.

    Keeping them from rusting...that is a much more involved subject. Really depends on what you have to start with. Good clean primed and painted metal...I'd undercoat the piss out of it...maybe even schutz it...and then be very anal about washing the salt off regularly.

    And welcome to the board :cheers:
     
  4. tlcgear

    tlcgear

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    diamond plate over it :D
     
  5. Sparky_Mark

    Sparky_Mark

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    Your question is one that I have considered... Since I work in the auto industry, I fortunately have access to people that can give me good answers based on test results (a former cube mate of mine is a paint engineer, and she helped me decide what paint to use for my cruiser).

    "properly primed and painted" is a subjective. It means different things to people. In my opinion, that means sandblasted to bare metal, primed with an epoxy (2 part) primer, then topcoated with a coating that is compatible with the primer, (then clearcoated if you're doing a base coat - clear coat). Automotive paint is a SYSTEM. Primers and topcoats are designed to work together. Do not trust a coating to remove or seal rust, take oxidation off mechanically or chemically (phosphoric acid).

    So, to answer your question about cycles of driving in salt...
    The best way to investigate that is to look at the data sheets of the paint that you are considering. One property is a resistance to salt spray (there is an standard test that involves exposure to 500 hours of salt spray). If you don't see a reference to it, don't use the paint. I live in the Detroit area, so this was a concern of mine - I only wanted to do it once.

    After the coating is on, you can consider some more protection before exposing your vehcle to the elements. Even though professional coatings provide protection to chip resistance, mechanical abrasion is really your only enemy if you "properly prep, prime, and paint". That's where undercoatings come in - they can provide protection against stone chips (or when you're driving behind the salt truck). I would consider undercoating in the wheel wells.

    ... Just my opinion, hope it helps....
     
  6. lowtideride

    lowtideride

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    which is worse living up north in nehind the salt trucks or being in the salt air down south by the sea shore? hhmmm
     
  7. landcruiser

    landcruiser

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    I'd take the Southern salt air any day over the salt trucks and frigid air up here. I'm near Detroit, in Toledo, and I could live with the salty air and warm temps anytime!!
     
  8. toddslater

    toddslater

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    I believe it is definitely easier to spray off salt air residue in January at 70 degrees versus chiseling of blocks of ice, salt, cinders, sand and other excrement in sub 20 degree temps :eek: maybe some day
     
  9. lowtideride

    lowtideride

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    you guys can crash at my house the ocean water was 82 today with 5 ft waves surfs up......rock on..seriouly if your ever down my way we will have to wheel......al
     
  10. billmc

    billmc

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    [quote author=lowtideride link=board=1;threadid=6876;start=msg57097#msg57097 date=1067550353]
    which is worse living up north in nehind the salt trucks or being in the salt air down south by the sea shore? hhmmm
    [/quote]

    Conductivity of an electrolytic solution increases as temperature decreases (up to the freezing point). So head south and rinse regularly.

    Bill
     
  11. landcruiser

    landcruiser

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    Lowtideride - thanks for the hospitality!! Me and the wide and kids should be able to get down there by Sunday. We can only stay for a couple of months, during my layoff, but again, it's appreciated. Wife wants to know if you have cable?