pads/rotors/calipers/lines? (1 Viewer)

[Beowulf]

Riley,
With two of you, the brake system flushing and bleeding will be a 15 minute job and well worth the effort. All you need is a 10mm line wrench which you will need to remove the brake lines anyway. Don't try it with a standard spanner.

You can clamp the hoses pretty easily. I've used heavy duty office type of paper clamps. They have some brake like clamps at Harbor Freight or most auto parts stores. Clamping shouldn't stress the brake hoses; they are pretty stout.

-B-

 

[Riley]

Ok - any tips for holding the hub in place while we remove the old rotor?

I was thinking that since the old rotors are toast, just clamping them in my vise and give'er.

How about putting the new ones on? How do you secure the rotor to work on it?

 

[Scamper]

I've used those little plastic end caps that you see on bolts sometimes so that you don't cut/scrape yourself on an exposed sharp thingy? Does that make sense?

Home Despot sells bags of them. They use them in their wire-shelving to cover the cut ends of the wire shelf stuff. They come in a couple of different sizes. Just need a snug fit over the end and that should hold things for a while--at least until you get things sorted out to replace.

Tom

 

[semlin]

Hi folks, thanks for the help.

After price checking for once Toyota dealer locally is not too bad. I am going to replace rotors with oem and put 100 series pads on. I am also going to try just cleaning up the caliper for now. No time to rebuild this week and no budget left for rebuilds.

Do I need any special tools to separate the rotors from the hubs and do I need new hub bolts? from my desk at work I think the FSM seems to call for a press and also new hub bolts, but I can't tell if that’s just if you need new hub bolts or it's a requirement?

 

[landtoy80]

I didn't use a press. I used the old bolts.

 

[Eduardo96FZJ80]

I too re-used the same bolts, and did not need to press anything

 

[PHAEDRUS]

FWIW,
loosen the rotor to hub bolts while tehy are on the axle with the calipers in place and riley holding the brakes. should come loose pretty easily. I reused mine and used them to seat the hub into the rotor. no problems with 26k since I replaced the rotors.
Dave

 

[sjcruiser]

Riley,

As Dave said, loosen the hub bolts while they're on the axle; otherwise, you'd be cursing at yourself later if you hadn't done so...

To put them on, I used a large screw driver to hold the rotor (on the cooling fins) while torquing the bolts - not a great method but worked for me (don't remember if this applies but from the MBZ group - it's drilling holes for the studs on the hub on a LARGE wood block to hold the rotor back)

Hope this helps,
Frank.

 

[cruiserdan]

It is also possible to put a pry bar between a wheel stud and the hub body to stop the rotation. That is the method I use.

 

[semlin]

thanks guys,
one rotor is off right now, but we will undo the other in situ. For the one that's off, the holes drilled into plywood idea sounds good.

 

[Riley]

I think we might have a multi-purpose SST made out of plywood. It serves a number of purposes like a birf holder and hub/rotor holder.

Hopefully pics to folllow.

 

[cruiserdan]

Does it also hold the Barley pops?

 

[Riley]

Dan - we're sticking with coffee until this baby is back on the road. After that we will

need a 4X8 plywood SST to hold all the

R

 

[cruiserdan]

I wanna help build that one!

I think if we set it up on saw horses............ :whoops:

 

[Outback]

I replaced the front pads on my 80 with Wagner Thermo Quiet pads. They are warranteed not to squeal, or give off excessive brake dust. They also have the anti-squeal goop pre gooped on the back.

So far so good. No squealing, no brake dust and good braking. I'm sold. Plus, they are the same price as 80 pads from the dealer with my TLCA discount.

Jody.

 

[Riley]

Here's a pic of the caliper.

What do you guys think? Can you tell anything from this pic?