Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (4 Viewers)

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Last Memorial Day weekend, we went for a little exploration drive from our camp. Beautiful little double-track off the main road. Just our friends and us in the Troopy. Ended up in this nice meadow, with a bit of standing water and the next thing I knew we were buried to the axles.
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We had a shovel, a high-lift and a limb saw....4-hours later we finally got out of the mud-hole. And I immediately started looking for a winch.

Found a basket-case 8274 on an auction site and 'won' it for about $160. It needed a new solenoid or two and a new solenoid cover, plus the controller had seen better days.
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I sat in the corner until March and finally found time to start modifying my bumper to get it installed. I sent a .dxf of the winch plate off my 45 to OSHCut and got a mounting plate cut by them. Pretty sweet service and easy to use.
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Took my homemade bumper off and cut the frame-horns off as well as my high-lift mount and light-bar protection hoop. Had to move the light and make some brackets to remount it.

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Cut a hole for the winch line/fairlead and for some long shackle mounts to go through the tubing. cut the holes with a skinny-wheel, then cleaned them up on a manual mill we've got at work.
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Welded the shackle mounts on front and back of the main tube.

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Found some scrap 2-4 tubing and cut/machined it to fit over the Troopy frame. Had to notch-out the inside a bit on the mill to get it to fit. I think it's 3/16 wall 2x4, tried 1/4 wall and the radius was too big.
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Tacking it on the truck.
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Made some brackets for the light and re-attached the hoop. Keep thinking I'll add some fog lights to that hoop, but haven't found any I like that work with 24v.
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Hit it with my favorite color, flat-rattle-can-black and moved on to the winch solenoids.
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Electrical stuff is not my forte...these kicked my ass. I think that the old ones all worked, but I snapped off two of the studs trying to take them off so I could straighten out the mounting plate and clean up the wiring. Ordered a set of four more and what showed up didn't have mounting hardware and operated differently than the ones that were on it. I tried using the old hardware and ended up busting two of the studs off on the new ones...new solenoids were a course metric thread old ones were 5/16-18 std. thread :rolleyes: Pile of left-overs...
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Broke down and ordered an Albright Solenoid, 24v. After a bit of trial and error and sparking/arcing I got it to work.

Notched the mounting plate and mounted the Albright offset to the left with some new pre-lugged cables and boots.
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Bought a new 5-wire plug, cut all the ring-terminals off that are meant to attach to the individual solenoids that I destroyed and crimped on some female spade connectors.
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Had a broken cover from the winch on my 45. I 3d-printed new cover for it, but was not happy with the results, so opted to gorilla-glue this one.
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Wiring diagram I used for the Albright and remote plug.
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Had to buy a new fairlead and hook as well. Probably should get a new cable as well, but this will do for now. I didn't expect this to be such a PIA project. I started in March and didn't 'finish' until last night...4 days away from this Memorial Day. I also didn't take the gear box apart. I might pull it off and do an oil-change on it at least, but I bet that's opening another can of worms. I'm usually of the mindset, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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All said and done, my '$160.00' 8274, probably cost me another $565 to get mounted up and working. Still not too bad of a deal. If the solenoids didn't break, I'd have saved $175.00 that I spent on the Albright. Wasted $40 on the new individual solenoids I ended up breaking an not using. I think the winch plate I bought was about $100.00, plug was $70 and new controller $95 (old controller worked but was taped up in a few spots and had exposed wires), fairlead another $55, Hook and clamps for wire rope maybe another $30.
 
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Cool! Thanks Ian. I've been meaning to swing by.

One other note, kinda new this already, but the 24v application hauls-ass compared to my 12 volt 'warren wenches'.
 
Is your snorkel precleaner the OEM variety? Curious if it helps extend the life of your air filters. I'm going back and forth between the OEM vs Snorkelupgrade precleaner. Thanks!
 
It's an OEM snorkel for a later model 7* series. Tied into the factory airbox, but I had to cut and modify the air box to make it work. So not really OEM. Not sure if it's helped on my air filter life.
 
Is your snorkel precleaner the OEM variety? Curious if it helps extend the life of your air filters. I'm going back and forth between the OEM vs Snorkelupgrade precleaner. Thanks!
if by snorkel upgrade pre cleaner you mean Donaldson,,,, do it.
 
if by snorkel upgrade pre cleaner you mean Donaldson,,,, do it.
I was looking at the one made by the company called SnorkelUpgrade. Its got a rotating “fan” inside that kicks sand and s*** out vent holes on the outer casing of the precleaner. The OEM version is much cheaper from @cruiseroutfit though! I’ll definitely take a look at Donaldson also
 
Derek, @SKULLYOTA , hooked me up with a boost controller, thanks again. Got it installed. Haven't taken it out for a spin yet to check/adjust. He even included the instructions.

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Also picked up the cable that Ian, @SNLC , offered up. Thanks Chris and Ian. Got it installed. It's 3/8 and about 30 feet longer than the old 5/16 cable that was on there.

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Gonna need a land anchor for that scenario 😉
I'd like something like this for that application as the metal ones are heavy and bulky.

 
So I managed to do more damage than good replacing my horn contact last week. Now I have no turn signals.

Looking for a new or used replacement for the turn signal assembly. Found a new almost-the-same part on Ebay. Might take a leap of faith and buy it.

84310-60570 is not available, but 84310-60571 is. Looks like the 571 is for 1990-2001, mine is a 1989.


 
So Ian at SNLC had an old crusty switch assembly in his shop.
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Luckily non of the wires associated with the board I needed were damaged.
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Used a de-pin tool I'd bought for some other connectors, once I'd figured out the process it went pretty quick.
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'New' one installed.
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And all the wires in their respective spots...had to use the multi-meter to ensure I had them right, even though they were color-coded, I wanted to make sure the wires and board locations were the same.
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And now I don't have to use arm signals anymore.


 

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