- Thread starter
- #381
40-50 cfs, that's bony. Bet 5-mile was interesting at that flow too.
Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Owyhee Jackass
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #382
Oil change, tire rotation, changed front brake pads. Luckily caught the pads as they were wafer thin. Looks like they lasted 6-years. Autozone had some Duralast D137's in stock.
- Thread starter
- #383
Acquired an 80 series brake booster last week. Finally made time to install it today. Wow, what a difference. The pedal was really hard, not sure if it had always been like that or has just gotten worse over the years.
Old booster on the right, new booster on the left.
Needed to extend the rod that attaches to the pedal by about 1", dug through my junk and found an old clutch/brake rod and took the fitting off, drilled out the end, tapped it (M10x1.25) then threaded it back onto the old rod and welded it to the 80 fitting.
Had to change out the stock formed vacuum hose with a section of straight hose I had as the 80 booster vacuum inlet is on the opposite side from the 75 series booster. I think an 80 series formed hose will work, need to find one that's not $50 though.
Accidentally tossed my dog off the seat on the initial test drive, brakes work way better.
Old booster on the right, new booster on the left.
Needed to extend the rod that attaches to the pedal by about 1", dug through my junk and found an old clutch/brake rod and took the fitting off, drilled out the end, tapped it (M10x1.25) then threaded it back onto the old rod and welded it to the 80 fitting.
Had to change out the stock formed vacuum hose with a section of straight hose I had as the 80 booster vacuum inlet is on the opposite side from the 75 series booster. I think an 80 series formed hose will work, need to find one that's not $50 though.
Accidentally tossed my dog off the seat on the initial test drive, brakes work way better.
AndrewHadji
GOLD Star
do you still have your lspv?
- Thread starter
- #385
I do and have not adjusted it yet. Not sure that it's functioning.
- Thread starter
- #386
Got a decent used 80-series hose installed. cut about an inch off the end that attaches to the 1FZ manifold, twisted it 180deg to the firewall and held it in place while applying heat with a heat-gun. Seems to be staying put. It's not laying across the lid of the master cylinder and the hose clamps fit (temp hose was too small o.d. for the OEM clamps.)
- Thread starter
- #387
Pulled my injection pump out and sent it off to Goff Diesel Injection in Murray, Utah for service. Was able to get it out without pulling the intake, but I did have to pull the battery, drain the coolant, remove the external coolant heater, remove the turbo-crossover pipe and all the injector lines and remove the power steering reservoir from its support bracket (didn't have to pull and P.S. lines), then it was a bit of a Chinese puzzle getting the thing up and out of the engine compartment.
I noted some oil in the turbo outlet crossover pipe. Not sure if it's excessive or normal. The inside of the intake didn't look too bad. But I did notice excessive oil on the outside of the intake manifold and this is new and I'm thinking if I've got a bad seal on the turbo.
Note the oil looks to be leaking out of the crossover pipe.
Inside the rubber coupling.
This wrench was key to removing the injector lines. No way I was getting those things off without it.
Packed it up and insured it for $$$ as if the post office lost it, I'd be screwed. Looks like it arrived safely yesterday. Hope to get it back in a week.
Now to decide if I need to buy a new turbo...
I noted some oil in the turbo outlet crossover pipe. Not sure if it's excessive or normal. The inside of the intake didn't look too bad. But I did notice excessive oil on the outside of the intake manifold and this is new and I'm thinking if I've got a bad seal on the turbo.
Note the oil looks to be leaking out of the crossover pipe.
Inside the rubber coupling.
This wrench was key to removing the injector lines. No way I was getting those things off without it.
Packed it up and insured it for $$$ as if the post office lost it, I'd be screwed. Looks like it arrived safely yesterday. Hope to get it back in a week.
Now to decide if I need to buy a new turbo...
I could be wrong, but that amount of oil looks pretty normal for an older diesel. Most of mine have been similar.
Yep, samers... though I have much more in my little TDI (I add about 1.5 to 2 liters between changes on that thing (10,000kms) But it runs beautifully and gets reat mileage and has good power.
I would say not to worry about it until your oil consumption exceeds your desire to keep adding it..... Or until some other symptoms start to show
- Thread starter
- #390
Thanks for the replies. I currently don't have to add any oil between changes (5000 miles), it's just the mess on the intake that made me take note of it. And that may be due to me not tightening the crossover coupling enough after I pulled it off to change out the injectors.
$1600 usd for a new Gturbo Green Wheel isn't in the budget right now. I'm hoping this pump rebuild will yield some performance improvements and I can focus on some other upgrades I've got on the list.
$1600 usd for a new Gturbo Green Wheel isn't in the budget right now. I'm hoping this pump rebuild will yield some performance improvements and I can focus on some other upgrades I've got on the list.
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FJBen
SILVER Star
Do you have the crankcase/PCV venting back to the turbo intake like factory does?
Could be blow by going through but most likely I bet it’s turbo seals.
Could be blow by going through but most likely I bet it’s turbo seals.
A little off topic, but could bad turbo seals also create blow by or increased crankcase pressure?
FJBen
SILVER Star
From everything I know and have read, no.
Those blown seals can cause excess oil going into the crossover pipe, but no excess pressure.
- Thread starter
- #394
I don't think I have a PCV. The valve cover is vented to the intake of the turbo, tied into the airbox pipe, but no PCV that I can see.
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FJBen
SILVER Star
How is the intake of the turbo looking? Lots of oil on the blades and housing or clean?
- Thread starter
- #396
Not too bad. A bit of oil coming from the valve cover vent.
Parts diagram for 14B-T ventilation hose shows it goes into the intake crossover pipe that feeds into the airbox, as I got rid of that when I added the snorkel, I tied it into the hard-pipe that exits the airbox lid.
Parts diagram for 14B-T ventilation hose shows it goes into the intake crossover pipe that feeds into the airbox, as I got rid of that when I added the snorkel, I tied it into the hard-pipe that exits the airbox lid.
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- Thread starter
- #397
Got my injection pump back and installed. Shop said that they replaced the supply pump, set it up per the DENSO spec.
I ended up pulling my intake off to make it easier to get it installed. I should have installed a block heater at the same time as I had drained the coolant and the freeze-plugs were accessible. Not sure which one to put them in, think the one closest to the fire wall is where I've read to put one.
Initial start and drive, it seems to be less smoky. It was pulling pretty well up to about 95 kph, then felt like it hit over-fueling...it was a bit like pulling teeth talking to the dude that did the set-up and test of it. I'll probably give him a call Monday and see where/if he put the boost comp diaphragm. I should have monkey'd with it before I installed it as I'll most likely be pulling the intake off again to adjust it. I've never pulled one apart, so I'm a bit leery of messing something up.
New vacuum hoses 90999-90024
New Intake gasket 17171-56010
New grid heater gasket (2) 19829-17010
New pump o-ring 90301-49003
I ended up pulling my intake off to make it easier to get it installed. I should have installed a block heater at the same time as I had drained the coolant and the freeze-plugs were accessible. Not sure which one to put them in, think the one closest to the fire wall is where I've read to put one.
Initial start and drive, it seems to be less smoky. It was pulling pretty well up to about 95 kph, then felt like it hit over-fueling...it was a bit like pulling teeth talking to the dude that did the set-up and test of it. I'll probably give him a call Monday and see where/if he put the boost comp diaphragm. I should have monkey'd with it before I installed it as I'll most likely be pulling the intake off again to adjust it. I've never pulled one apart, so I'm a bit leery of messing something up.
New vacuum hoses 90999-90024
New Intake gasket 17171-56010
New grid heater gasket (2) 19829-17010
New pump o-ring 90301-49003
- Thread starter
- #398
Replaced the mesh/netting map pockets with some new OEM versions. Not sure I got them in the right spot, I just used the second horizontal line as a reference and 'eyeballed' the location.
Pocket part number 67777-20070-B0
screw part number 90168-40068 (thought I'd need 7 per side, ended up using just 5 per side as there are two mounting points that protrude into the door card the full depth of the card, making the screws useless)
door card clip part number 90467-10161 (just in case a few break)
Pocket part number 67777-20070-B0
screw part number 90168-40068 (thought I'd need 7 per side, ended up using just 5 per side as there are two mounting points that protrude into the door card the full depth of the card, making the screws useless)
door card clip part number 90467-10161 (just in case a few break)
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DoubleNickels
SILVER Star
Nice. Good replacement for that previous meshtacle.
- Thread starter
- #400
We were planning to take the troopy on a trip to Hurricane, Ut. this week. Borrowed a RTT from a friend. Had to modify my basket rack to fit the tent. Homemade bender worked awesome, just need a stout table and two dudes to get a piece of 3/4" .065 wall tube bent.
Ended up sticking out the back a bit more than expected, but fit.
On the way back from mounting it, (150-mile drive) the turbo started acting up, losing boost intermittently, popped the hood and the housing had oil running out of it. I suspect it needs a rebuild. I've been wanting to get a different turbo, so pulled the trigger on a new one...website said in-stock, turns out they had to build it, no shipping confirmation as of today, so I pulled the RTT and rack off and swapped it to my wife's truck. Pulled the rear passenger seats out and swapped the fridge over too. The 80 is more comfortable, more powerful, more capable (lockers & winch) but has horrible fuel economy...but damn it looks good.
We haven't taken it on a road-trip since getting the Troopy, which has been about 5-years now. The ladder angle is way better on the 80 too. I think the Troopy gutters are about 8-10 inches higher off the ground, the tent ladder was vertical on it and barely reached the ground.
Oh, side note, I did a not-so-clean modification to the rack (no bender here) and was able to slide the tent forward and center it better.
Ended up sticking out the back a bit more than expected, but fit.
On the way back from mounting it, (150-mile drive) the turbo started acting up, losing boost intermittently, popped the hood and the housing had oil running out of it. I suspect it needs a rebuild. I've been wanting to get a different turbo, so pulled the trigger on a new one...website said in-stock, turns out they had to build it, no shipping confirmation as of today, so I pulled the RTT and rack off and swapped it to my wife's truck. Pulled the rear passenger seats out and swapped the fridge over too. The 80 is more comfortable, more powerful, more capable (lockers & winch) but has horrible fuel economy...but damn it looks good.
We haven't taken it on a road-trip since getting the Troopy, which has been about 5-years now. The ladder angle is way better on the 80 too. I think the Troopy gutters are about 8-10 inches higher off the ground, the tent ladder was vertical on it and barely reached the ground.
Oh, side note, I did a not-so-clean modification to the rack (no bender here) and was able to slide the tent forward and center it better.
