Overheating (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Threads
16
Messages
205
Location
Gilbert, AZ
Here's what I got: 1989 FJ62. Here's the situation: I know it has been covered out there, but I am at a loss with this situation. Water pump was leaking through weep hole so I replaced it (non-Toyota) along with EVERY single coolant/heater hose and belts from Toyota. Filled her up with a 50/50 mixture and burped her until I could no longer. She has ran just below the second line in between the 2/3 and 3/3 sections. Replaced the t-stat thinking that maybe the wax inside broke down. Same thing. I am thinking it's the water pump, but I have only ran into one water pump not working correctly off the shelf. The coolant that came out was still nice and not discolored at all. I can hear the fan clutch engaging and disengaging. I have no idea what to do next other than replace the water pump. Any ideas would be a great help.
 
Well, do you have a functioning shroud?
Is the fan clutch old or a non-Toy item? The non-Toy ones don't get much respect 'round these parts.
Burp it again.
What condition is the rad in?
 
Fully functional stock fan shroud and the fan clutch is OE 1989. The thing is that it didn't start until I changed all the hoses. It was not heating up as much prior to all of this maintenance. I have burped it four times now. I burped her on Sunday. I ran her without the rad cap on and let all of the bubbles escape. That was the second or third time I burped her. I am honestly thinking it's my temp sensor since the fan clutch is operating like normal, but the gauge is reading differently. I love my Toyota 3FE, but I have been putting a lot of energy now into a GM 350 TPI motor swap since I have a complete block minus injection sitting around.
 
I have an 89 fj62 and I was having similar problems. I posted on this board and had done about what you have said you have done. Someone mentioned to take the dash off and try to take some emery cloth and clean the contacts of the fuel gauge as it controls the temp as well. I did that and its been riding just below the midpoint since then. Is your heat gauge rising and lowering a bunch or is it consistently hot? also might be a good idea to take the radiator out and have it boiled out and have a new temp sensor installed on it. Hope this helps. I know its frustrating, i just dealt with it.
 
buy a more accurate gauge to confirm actual temp. They're inexpensive and will save you a lot of headache. I went through a LOT of fixes before realizing there was never really a problem with the temp, just the gauge reading the temp.
 
buy a more accurate gauge to confirm actual temp. They're inexpensive and will save you a lot of headache. I went through a LOT of fixes before realizing there was never really a problem with the temp, just the gauge reading the temp.


Yep
Get a real gauge before you assume anything..
 
This has to be the most common question on this board. You need to put in a mechanical guage and determine if you really are running hot. All this work and your truck may be fine.
 
Yep
Get a real gauge before you assume anything..
x3³

Had the same issues with my 40, changed everything, radiator, water pump, thermostuff, hoses, cleaned twice even put in a new headgasket.......:rolleyes:
In the end i bought a digital thermometer and some mechanical and put them right on the radiator and the thermostat housing.

MBkuehler%20009.jpg


Everything was as it should be.......only problem was the original gauge....after 30 years of proper work.:mad:

I did feel like a complete idiot when i realized.:doh:
 
x3³

Had the same issues with my 40, changed everything, radiator, water pump, thermostuff, hoses, cleaned twice even put in a new headgasket.......:rolleyes:
In the end i bought a digital thermometer and some mechanical and put them right on the radiator and the thermostat housing.

MBkuehler%20009.jpg


Everything was as it should be.......only problem was the original gauge....after 30 years of proper work.:mad:

I did feel like a complete idiot when i realized.:doh:
:grinpimp:Sweet. The other day when i was at the local advance crap i noticed they had a 13 pound rad. cap that had built in thermometer....thinking about picking on up
 
Thank you all for your replies. I will invest in a mechanical gauge this weekend. I am just worried about it because it was not like this before. I guess I will know for sure once I put a mechanical gauge on there.
 
I have a very similar problem.. new RAD, New Hoses, New Fan Clutch... Burped it good and temp guage starts to go near 3/4 to red when going up long steep hills at freeway speeds. Never let it boil over though. Funny thing is it will run all day on the trails even on steep hills and it never goes above 1/2. It is only on the freeway that it happens. I'm getting a replacement mechanical guage next.

Mark
 
:grinpimp:Sweet. The other day when i was at the local advance crap i noticed they had a 13 pound rad. cap that had built in thermometer....thinking about picking on up

I was hooked by the idea and googled a little.....
ThermoCap offers 24 different models of them! :cool:

ThermoCap_1.jpg


Wich one will fit the Cruiser........:hmm:
 
I'm gonna have to order me one of those. Summit Racing has it for $25.95 part number 2470R.

I was under my cruiser the other day and was gonna drain the block of coolant, but the plug would not come out. Do you unscrew the valve or the whole unit?
 
I'm gonna have to order me one of those. Summit Racing has it for $25.95 part number 2470R.

I was under my cruiser the other day and was gonna drain the block of coolant, but the plug would not come out. Do you unscrew the valve or the whole unit?

Take the radiator hose off instead.........these drainplugs are rusted most of the time.
k%C3%BChlerschraube.jpg

And thats how the unit looks ........once you tried to hard and it came off......:doh:

Yes.....i learned by my mistakes........:idea:
 
LOL I know the pain. Worked on a few east coast cars and never will again. Glad I live in Phoenix, Az. I'll just leave it then. No sense in attempting to use the wonderfully, ingenious device called an ez-out on the half that's still in the block.
 

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