Overheating (1 Viewer)

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Great to hear that you got connected!

Sounds like you are getting good advice on the radiator, there are probably a few good options; Rebuild your OEM, new oem, and some aftermarket choices, in that order?

As far as the fan clutch, I have upgraded both mine over the years with good results and recommend one of the Mud vendors, seems like I have Wits End on my 96’ and maybe LandTank? assisted on my 97’ that has a TRD supercharger, several years ago. I wanted the more efficient cooling and it helped me trust the very odd behaving factory temp gauge a little better.
 
FWIW, I am positive my radiator is metal and not plastic. The mechanic said if it was any other radiator other than brass and metal, he would tell me to get a new one. I think his concern is the structural stability of aluminum and not the ability to cool. I definitely see the reasoning behind getting a new one but my gut is telling me to hear what the radiator shop says. There is a reason why it lasted 27 years in the first place right? It would be much easier for him to slap a new one in and collect his money.
The OEM radiators in US spec 80 Series from 1991-1997 had plastic tanks top and bottom. If your radiator has metal tanks, then it has been replaced with a non-OEM radiator and is not original.
 
The OEM radiators in US spec 80 Series from 1991-1997 had plastic tanks top and bottom. If your radiator has metal tanks, then it has been replaced with a non-OEM radiator and is not original.
This prompted me to give PO's maintenance records and receipts another look. Looks like I have a CSF 2517 bought in 2011. Must have overlooked it before. I'll let everyone know how this plays out. Hopefully this thread can add some value to someone making a similar decision in the future.
 
At a minimum you should look at your PHH & the heater valve while the cooling system is open.

If those are original, just do them.

GL.
 
Tyc radiator from Amazon .. I put an oem in one truck and a tyc in my other truck and the tyc out performs.

Make sure the mechanic does not put cog belts on and that he puts them in correctly, especially around the idler.

Definitely oem t-stat.
 

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