Overheating and Radiator is not HOT???? Need Help ASAP (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruiserhunter
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- Thread starter
- #63
Dorcom,
Excessive corrosion?
What do you mean, corrosion where and what can I do about it?
Could easily be hard water, will use distilled when I put her back together
Never used radiator sealants and I've had her for 12yrs
Thanks again for the help
Patrick
Excessive corrosion?
What do you mean, corrosion where and what can I do about it?
Could easily be hard water, will use distilled when I put her back together
Never used radiator sealants and I've had her for 12yrs
Thanks again for the help
Patrick
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That is truly awesome. Looks looks like an alien fungus.
Let us know what you decide it is. It's a now one on me for sure.
Was goop like that in the radiator too?
Let us know what you decide it is. It's a now one on me for sure.
Was goop like that in the radiator too?
What kind of water ( distilled or tap ) / coolant have you used for these 12 years ?
- Thread starter
- #67
I honestly i haven;t messed with it since i took the pump off a week ago and then had to leave the state for work.
Prestone Green stuff with Distilled for the last 5-6 yrs... Didn't know any better.
The Rad shop just said there were flakes of yellow stuff in the radiator??? Didn't really elaborate much and I hadn't taken the water pump off yet, so I did know to ask more.
Appreciate all the questions and the help
Patrick
Prestone Green stuff with Distilled for the last 5-6 yrs... Didn't know any better.
The Rad shop just said there were flakes of yellow stuff in the radiator??? Didn't really elaborate much and I hadn't taken the water pump off yet, so I did know to ask more.
Appreciate all the questions and the help
Patrick
I would back flush the block and heater core then put a new water pump on it. That stuff looks nasty!
- Thread starter
- #69
Wheelingnoob,
Please explain the back flushing process.
Is it just putting my hose in the lower rad hose?
Sorry for my ignorance
Patick
Please explain the back flushing process.
Is it just putting my hose in the lower rad hose?
Sorry for my ignorance
Patick
Yeah, I would actually remove the block drain and stick a hose in the opening where the water pump goes to the block. What you are trying to do is flush all the crap sitting in the bottom of the block out. For the heater core determine the flow and hook the garden hose to the exit to flush any contaminates back out the way they came in.
If you had lots of crap in there I would also install a coolant filter.
- Thread starter
- #72
Ok will have to find the block drain, but I'll get it flushed.
What is this Coolant Filter you speak of?
I found a couple of images, but where do I find one for my fj60?
Aside from jamming a hose in, Any other advice on cleaning out the block?
Oh and what is the the best place/method to flush the heater core?
Again, my sincerest thanks
Patrick
What is this Coolant Filter you speak of?
I found a couple of images, but where do I find one for my fj60?
Aside from jamming a hose in, Any other advice on cleaning out the block?
Oh and what is the the best place/method to flush the heater core?
Again, my sincerest thanks
Patrick
Looks to me like someone used the ol' "crack-some-eggs-into-the-radiator" trick with a dozen eggs to try and seal a leak...
looks disgusting.
looks disgusting.
- Thread starter
- #74
I heard of that egg trick, but always thought it was someone's idea of a joke.
I can promise you that over the last 12 years no egg from any animal has been near the radiator.
Also I changed out the waterpump ~8-10 yrs ago and recorded the rad and didn't see anything like this or at least I don't recall anything
Thanks for your help an input
Patrick
Anyone know where the block drain is? And a good way to back flush the block?
I can promise you that over the last 12 years no egg from any animal has been near the radiator.
Also I changed out the waterpump ~8-10 yrs ago and recorded the rad and didn't see anything like this or at least I don't recall anything
Thanks for your help an input
Patrick
Anyone know where the block drain is? And a good way to back flush the block?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Block drain is on the rear driver side of the motor. There is a fitting there with a 14mm brass drain. I think it's brass anyway.
It would be extremely hard to back flush from there.
Just get one of those prestone flush kits and use the "T" fitting in the rear heater hose. That works great. I would not leave it in line permanently but some do.
Mark Whatley posted up once about flushing with dilute muriatic acid. While that sounds harsh, this might be a time to try it as that stuff is nasty.
It would be extremely hard to back flush from there.
Just get one of those prestone flush kits and use the "T" fitting in the rear heater hose. That works great. I would not leave it in line permanently but some do.
Mark Whatley posted up once about flushing with dilute muriatic acid. While that sounds harsh, this might be a time to try it as that stuff is nasty.
Coolant filter:
www.tefba.com
I have put them on all my trucks, especially useful for getting all the remaining gasket scrapings after a rebuild or a head gasket job. Great product.
www.tefba.com
I have put them on all my trucks, especially useful for getting all the remaining gasket scrapings after a rebuild or a head gasket job. Great product.
That's a cool looking set-up, I have taken stainless mash and put it over the rad inlet in the past then secured the hose over top. I run it like that for 1000miles then check and clean. Then I run it again depending on the amount of junk in the system. With all the crap you seem to have in the cooling system I would give the whole block, head, heater cores a good flush before fitting any of your new parts. Like I said just hook up the hose to the heater core outlet and run the tap so you reverse flow through the heater core and back through the block. After running that for 20-30 min take the hose and stick it in the hole in the front of the block where the water pump goes to sture up any sediment in the bottom of the block. You will see it come out of the block drain at the back.
I run bypass coolant filters on my truck, it looks just like a oil filter. You plum it into the cooling system in a spot that will not block flow to a critical area when it plugs up. Then run the truck normally and every oil change check to see if the coolant filter gets hot along with the engine. If it does not that means the filter is plugged and needs to be replaced.
The nice thing about the Tefba is you can easily check it anytime, even at the gas station while you're checking your oil and the gas is pumping. Pop the cap off, pull out the little screen doohickey, knock the chunks off, replace.
- Thread starter
- #79
Just got back home... Will be flushing the block tomorrow after I free up from work. I'll look into the tefba filters. Anyone have a reliable source. Only seen it on eBay thus far.
Will check out amazon as well
Thanks for the advice and the help. I'll flush here tomorrow and let y'all know what comes out.
Cheers
Patrick
Will check out amazon as well
Thanks for the advice and the help. I'll flush here tomorrow and let y'all know what comes out.
Cheers
Patrick
Hi cruiserhunter,
Is there any update on this? Very curious.
Is there any update on this? Very curious.
