Overheating and Radiator is not HOT???? Need Help ASAP (1 Viewer)

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Do all of you guys think that fluid is flowing?

Spike,
I totally get that without the tstat the car will take some time to warm up, but shouldnt the radiator get a little warm? the tstat housing was super hot after running the truck for 15 min.
I'm just hurtin for cash (like most everyone I know out there), but I am ordering an OEM waterpump tomorrow morning.

MrMoMo,
I like the idea of checking the gauge with one of my camp stoves. I will be free to do this in about 2 hrs and I will post up the results.


dbleon,
The block is REALLY hot after I run her for 15 min. Last time I ran her until almost red line then shut her off. Radiator: cold. Engine block: to hot to touch, T-stat housing: not to hot to touch, but DAMN HOT.
Will be checkin gauge per MrMoMo in a couple.


Thanks for all the input!!!!!
Patrick
 
I doubt the radiator is blocked to such a major extent. Surely you don't have the radiator packed full of mud or something like that. From here it sounds as it it could be the water pump, assuming you have the coolant system full...which I think takes something like 3 gallons when you get it totally empty.

Also you have checked all the dumb stuff like missing belts or obvious issues. If you don't have proper circulation...truck will get hot real quick...


** EDIT ** remember that if you drain all the coolant out of the engine and radiator, you can't depend on judging if the system is full by just looking at the level in the radiator or overflow jug. 2F is notorious for air pocket issues....if you have a large air pocket in the engine ....you are not goign to get proper circulation.... you have to go through the bleeding air process and the temp gauge will not read properly until this is complete either. If you had serious overheating issues...then one assumes you would have coolant boiling over at the radiator pressure cap or overflow jug....but from what you have said...it sure seems as if the water pump is the problem.
 
Last edited:
yes it can be the pump but you can test it easily.
Take of the hosepipe from the top of the radiator and start your engine and you will see if the water comes out quiet fast

It is also possible that the radiator is clogged because someone filled to different types of coolant in.
Some coolants are not good to mix because it can become sludge.
I had a radiator who where clogged in the centre and even after flushing with citric acid the engine still tend to overheat.
So in my case a new radiator solved the problem
 
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ditto everything said, plus - did you ever use a product in the radiator to stop leaks? it could have plugged the radiator core over time. when you removed the thermostat was it dry or did some coolant also leak out?

sounds like very little coolant in the block...
 
cruiserhunter said:
Do all of you guys think that fluid is flowing?
Click to expand...

Yes, if there was no fluid flow you wouldn't get heat from your heater in the cab. Is there enough flow? Don't know.
If there is no flow through your rad, it should be almost ambient temp. If it is slightly warm, then there is some flow through it, but not enough to cool the engine.


cruiserhunter said:
I like the idea of checking the gauge with one of my camp stoves. I will be free to do this in about 2 hrs and I will post up the results.
Click to expand...

So, what happened?
 
EVERYONE!!!! THANKS!!! MUD IS THE S*%T
MtMoMo,
thanks for your continued support and interest...
I burped the system... or at least tried to.. no/inadequte flow through the upper rad hose.
Then, with monday quickly approaching I had to get my motorcycle back together.. (71 cb500 that desperately needs a carb rebuild) so I could get to work the next morning...

I'm hoping late tonight when I get off work I will have time to boil the heat sensor.

Either way I am ordering a waterpump and tstat today. Maybe a new fan clutch... depending on how much this will cost....

I'm hopeful that this weekend in the 117 degress arizona heat, I will be able to swap that sucker in.

I will definitely keep y'all posted...

Thanks much,
Patrick
 
Paul07 said:
yes it can be the pump but you can test it easily.
Take of the hosepipe from the top of the radiator and start your engine and you will see if the water comes out quiet fast

It is also possible that the radiator is clogged because someone filled to different types of coolant in.
Some coolants are not good to mix because it can become sludge.
I had a radiator who where clogged in the centre and even after flushing with citric acid the engine still tend to overheat.
So in my case a new radiator solved the problem
Click to expand...


(mine on the 87 pickup) - a old radiator shop can clean it and refurb. for cheap - with the old style radiators - should come back looking like a new one -- do you here anything grinding from the water pump - since its not leaking -- and replacing the water pump would be just piece of mind also if it isnt bad - since you will be right there with the radiator off -- (keep the old one for trail back up)
 
Disconnect the upper and lower rad hoses, let everything drain out. Get an old garden hose, and a hose barb that fits the thread of the rad drain. Cut the end off an old garden hose (make sure you cut the right end!) Cap the bottom end of the rad, turn the hose on and see what crap comes out the top. Will only cost you a few dollars at the hardware store, and might save you a lot of work changing out all the other parts you are ordering. You should get full garden hose flow coming out, if not, you've got a blockage. Pull the rad and have it steam cleaned.
 
Does the top radiator hose get warm/hot? (save your money, a fan clutch isn't part of this problem)

If the heater's getting toasty, then the pump has to be working and not airlocked, as Lead Said.

Did you find junk in the bottom of the t- stat housing? It's sounding like something is plugged
up, and the slot at the front of the head's not huge.

hth

t
 
The scenarios I have run into that pertain to overheating:

t-stat installed upside down/o-ring not installed properly. (or t-stat failing - stuck open/stuck closed/stuck partial open)
(this scenario exhibited by having trouble reaching operating temp, then suddenly going well past operating temp)

air in the system - needed a good burp, full fill and subsequent purge via overflow.

loose belt to water pump (tightens with smog pump adjustment) when the water pump really needs to work (lower the temp of the fluid) it creates a ton of resistance and if the belt isn't properly tight, it will slip (without screeching) under these conditions and not work as efficiently.

...and if the sides of the belt are glazed (from, say, a smog pump failing) it will slip even easier.
 
assume you intend to install an aftermarket gauge so you can tell what is going oin?
 
If you do install the pump and other items make sure you check the threads on sawing the fan shroud in two(properly). It will make future work much easier. ;)
 
Thanks all for the interest and advice!!!

So:
1. Temp gauge is working, thanks for the camp stove idea!!
2. There is flow through entire cooling system: I went to flush the rad and when I opened up the rad drain spigot I only got maybe a quart of fluid??? So then, I took off the upper rad hose and shoved my garden hose into it. After about 30 sec the drain started to flow, After 1min water started to flow from the thermostat housing... So there is flow from the Upper rad hose down the radiator, through the lower rad hose and at least through the first internal waterjacket.
3. So, Now I believe I have a poorly functioning water pump.



Plan:
1. Got myself a fancy new waterpump, thermostat and gasket... that fan clutch is pricey so it will have to wait.
2. Will most definitely split my fan shroud. I'l have to find the "proper" way.
3. Will pull the radiator to have it pressure tested and assure there are no leaks.
4. Put it all back together... Hopefully without breaking anything or melting in the Arizona Heat!!! it was 114 today!!!! and my little garage has no AC!!!

I will post pictures so y'all can see me sweat and hopefully end up with a functional truck..


Thanks again for all the help,


Patrick

photo (2).JPG
 
you can buy an asin fan clutch off web for reasonable price...

I'm not tracking why you only get a quart of coolant out of the radiator....that does not sound right....the radiator by itself holds much more than a quart.
 
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