Overheating after head gasket replacement

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Hey guys, I just changed out my head gasket along with a new aluminum radiator, but I'm still getting high temps. The gauge gets to about 2mm behind redline before I shut it off and I've already flushed out the old oil contaminated coolant and put in new 50/50 premix. I tried searching for similar issues on here, but can't seem to find something that could match my issue...

Edit: I have the oem thermostat rated at 88C

PS: I uploaded a picture of the head gasket before install, and I'm pretty sure I put it in the right way? Can someone verify with me whether that's the correct orientation? Thanks guys for the help!

IMG_20210929_225945_305~2.jpg
 
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assuming the gauge is accurate, and it's continuing to overheat, a very common issue is the viscous fan clutch. Either not working or an inferior brand, not OEM.
Hi, sorry I forgot to mention that I had also changed the fan clutch, water pump, and thermostat with OEM from the dealer as well as new coolant hoses, which is why I'm so confused with the overheating... I could try adding a mechanical temp gauge and see what it says tomorrow
 
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Hi, sorry I forgot to mention that I had also changed the fan clutch, water pump, and thermostat with OEM from the dealer
Ok. that's good. The head gasket looks correct to me. I'm not sure it can be installed incorrectly? Others may know. I've done a few and it seemed only possible to go one way.

Apart from a blockage in a water passage or a severely advanced ignition, I can't see what else could be causing he overheating . {except maybe a cracked head}

have you burped all the air out?

Also make sure the new t-stat is working properly. IE the radiator is getting hot.
 
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I’ve read recently that some head gaskets can block some of the coolant passages. But if you got it from mr T it should be correct.
 
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There have also been counterfeit aisin parts floating around on eBay and amazon FWIW. But again, Mr T should supply the real deal.
 

John McVicker

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Get a cheap infra red temp gauge & verify your actual temp. I don’t get much from Harbor Freight but for this, HF will be fine. Do continue to burp and continually check your temps.

Check the temps at the top of the radiator and the bottom. Check the t stat housing as well as the head itself. It sounds as if you have take the proper steps…keep burping and checking.

And yes, you can indeed install the HG backwards…yours appears to be correct tho.
 
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Thanks for the replies, tomorrow I will be getting an IR temperature gauge as well as try burping out the cooling system. I'm going to install a mechanical temp gauge to act as a backup as well.
 
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Thanks for the replies, tomorrow I will be getting an IR temperature gauge as well as try burping out the cooling system. I'm going to install a mechanical temp gauge to act as a backup as well.
Just a FYI, my factory temp gauge reads very high. I installed a mechanical gauge which shows it isn’t anywhere near running warm.
 

ceylonfj40nut

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If IR shows it’s confirming back as hot for sure. Some additional thoughts after you are sure it’s burped correctly:

Do you have any white smoke from the tail pipe? Is your oil fill cap on the valve cover milky? Even if you don’t it could still be a HG issue due to installation. Rule this out.

You can do a test on coolant to see if you have some oil in coolant due to HG integrity. Big box stores carry it.

Did you do a pressure test on your radiator/coolant system? This will tell you have “leak” which can be internal and into your oil system.

Folks forget to run the cab heat front and rear during a burp. You need to have these running as you are filling and burping.

Any coolant weeping between head and block that you can see?
 

Gretsch

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If IR shows it’s confirming back as hot for sure. Some additional thoughts after you are sure it’s burped correctly:

Do you have any white smoke from the tail pipe? Is your oil fill cap on the valve cover milky? Even if you don’t it could still be a HG issue due to installation. Rule this out.

You can do a test on coolant to see if you have some oil in coolant due to HG integrity. Big box stores carry it.

Did you do a pressure test on your radiator/coolant system? This will tell you have “leak” which can be internal and into your oil system.

Folks forget to run the cab heat front and rear during a burp. You need to have these running as you are filling and burping.

Any coolant weeping between head and block that you can see?
^^^^ All This.

These engines are very hard to fill and properly burp after doing any sort of cooling system work. It literally takes me weeks of constant burping sessions and driving around after even looking at my cooling system. If the temp gauge worked before the HG replacement then its likely its telling you reasonably accurate info. They are not known for their accuracy on what the actual temp might be, but can at least give you an idea if its hot or cool. As suggested verify with IR gun and start the burp festival. Pressure test the system and check for leaks. HTH.
 

OSS

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Unfortunately- that’s an aftermarket head gasket and not the Toyota gasket. I had one of those abominations.
The cooling holes on some of the passageways are not the same size as the Toyota gasket.

Either replace that lame gasket now - or later / but one thing is for sure - you’ll be replacing it again with the Toyota gasket before you want to.
Vendors shouldn’t even be selling that gasket.
 

t140frank

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Check for vacuum leaks. Test for the proper vacuum at different RPM's, if its running lean it will run hot.
Also make sure the radiator cap is holding pressure, and not just allowing fluid to run into the overflow.
 
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Unfortunately- that’s an aftermarket head gasket and not the Toyota gasket. I had one of those abominations.
The cooling holes on some of the passageways are not the same size as the Toyota gasket.

Either replace that lame gasket now - or later / but one thing is for sure - you’ll be replacing it again with the Toyota gasket before you want to.
Vendors shouldn’t even be selling that gasket.
My thoughts exactly
 

Gretsch

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Unfortunately- that’s an aftermarket head gasket and not the Toyota gasket. I had one of those abominations.
The cooling holes on some of the passageways are not the same size as the Toyota gasket.

Either replace that lame gasket now - or later / but one thing is for sure - you’ll be replacing it again with the Toyota gasket before you want to.
Vendors shouldn’t even be selling that gasket.

So what's the giveaway its aftermarket? I have actually never done one of these myself, and would buy OEM based on what I have heard about the after market ones available, but just wondered if there was an easy way to tell right away.
 
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Hi guys, I had burped out the coolant in my system, and used the temp gun pointed at the thermostat. Looks like its holding steady around 185F-190F! I totally forgot about air in the cooling system. There is no smoke from the tailpipe, and it actually smells like burnt gas instead of burnt oil since I changed out the valve stem seals.

The original HG failed after my old radiator plugged up and I overheated the 2 miles back home. Miraculously the head and block were not warped in the slightest.

It's a Fel-Pro gasket and I know they don't exactly have the best reputation, but I got a really good deal on the kit from a friend in the industry, and I just want to make it last a couple more years because there is a diesel swap in the works right now.

Vacuum reads steady at 18 and idling around 700. No contamination of oil in the valve cover and runs silky smooth!

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions guys.



Can't wait to be out adventuring again!
IMG_20210423_163651_075.jpg
 

ceylonfj40nut

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May wanna figure out why your radiator plugged. Replace HG with OEM. Cheap if your do it yourself.
 

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