there's also the chance that the "missing" old thermostat is actually still in its housing and they also BS you when they said they would replace it.
Overheat....UPDATED...file claimed with TUSA. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter geanes
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- Thread starter
- #82
I've considered that as well. LCS will check that as well as confirm that my steering rack is actually a new OEM one. I honestly wouldn't put it past the dealer at this point to put in a reman and bill me for a new one. So sad that it's come to this.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Good call
Thanks for sharing your situation. Hopefully, you caught it in time and there's no long-term harm done. Even so, it's a PITA to have to bring it to an LC specialist to verify what the dealer said. Please let us know what Toyota corporate does to remedy the situation?
The gauge behavior is common on a cooling system that has been under filled or in a head gasket blown issue. The system is only about half-full of coolant, it bubbles and splashes around in there based on braking, acceleration, water pump, etc. and the temp sensor will only register when a liquid touches it. That's why it jumps around, as coolant splashes against it, then all at once, it pegs, indicating hot conditions, which can be "wet steam" from the coolant in the system. Then is drops right down again as the liquid falls off the sending unit.
The thermostat statement from the dealer is obviously CYA and totally untrue. There's no "hidden place for coolant to sit". In their defense they MAY have tried to say: The thermostat remained closed and when it was filled, the closed thermostat did not allow the air out.
That means they didn't "burp" the system and thus, their fault again. Places that don't own up to their mistakes really piss me off.
I think you are correct for having the other places do follow-up since you cannot. However, this can get sticky too, because now you have thrown someone else into the mix that they can throw "reasonable doubt" to when your engine fails in the future that "Well, maybe XYZ company didn't put it back together after you had them check things out!"
The thermostat statement from the dealer is obviously CYA and totally untrue. There's no "hidden place for coolant to sit". In their defense they MAY have tried to say: The thermostat remained closed and when it was filled, the closed thermostat did not allow the air out.
That means they didn't "burp" the system and thus, their fault again. Places that don't own up to their mistakes really piss me off.
I think you are correct for having the other places do follow-up since you cannot. However, this can get sticky too, because now you have thrown someone else into the mix that they can throw "reasonable doubt" to when your engine fails in the future that "Well, maybe XYZ company didn't put it back together after you had them check things out!"
- Thread starter
- #86
This is precisely why I intend to press for an unlimited mileage 12 month warranty on the engine and transmission from Toyota as their service technician placed my vehicle in an exceptionally precarious position thru their negligence initially (which I can forgive) and then thru deception (which I can't forgive). The cover-up is worse than the crime. They already agreed to cover the costs of a Blackstone analysis of the oil and ATF.
Check under the floor carpet for missing coolant. Hot coolant might have damaged plastic or O-rings in heater cores both front or back.
Genius
Reading through this thread, it seems error on part of mechanic in not topping coolant. It happens! I find many coolant system levels low, after a shop has just worked on. My bet your engine is fine.
My guess is, you saw temp gauge jump so high suddenly. Because the coolant level was below temperature sending unit, from failure to top after servicing. As coolant reach 260 F, coolant expanded enough to bring level up to the level of the sending unit. At that moment you got your first actually true engine temperature reading or rather block engine temp, which I don't see 260F that bad.
Why the dealership management wasn't up front about the error, is disheartening. You're smart, to now take elsewhere. They had their chance! Engine needs to be at operating temp for compression test. The 148-154 PSI is balanced but low. I see those "balance" and "low" numbers during a cold compression test. So the Dealerships compression test is in question.
I'd asked for 5 test, from your trusted sources.
Oil pressure test.
Compression test dry.
Compression test wet.
Leak down.
Overnight coolant pressure system test. (A very small head or head gasket leak doesn't always reveal itself in short term test.)
My guess is, you saw temp gauge jump so high suddenly. Because the coolant level was below temperature sending unit, from failure to top after servicing. As coolant reach 260 F, coolant expanded enough to bring level up to the level of the sending unit. At that moment you got your first actually true engine temperature reading or rather block engine temp, which I don't see 260F that bad.
Why the dealership management wasn't up front about the error, is disheartening. You're smart, to now take elsewhere. They had their chance! Engine needs to be at operating temp for compression test. The 148-154 PSI is balanced but low. I see those "balance" and "low" numbers during a cold compression test. So the Dealerships compression test is in question.
I'd asked for 5 test, from your trusted sources.
Oil pressure test.
Compression test dry.
Compression test wet.
Leak down.
Overnight coolant pressure system test. (A very small head or head gasket leak doesn't always reveal itself in short term test.)
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #90
Thanks for this info! The mistake was forgivable. The cover up is what made it so much worse. I won't know about the oil and ATF samples for a bit since I just sent them off to Blackstone on Wednesday. Hopefully those come back ok. Everything seems to be running normal so far and LandCruiser Specialists here in Austin seem to think everything is ok, but I'm having them test it further. Just this week, my voltage started rapidly jumping all over the map (14.4 to 12.7 to 13.1 and all over).....seems an alternator rebuild might be in my immediate future.
Just get some new brushes (27370-75060, $23 list) and follow the OTRAMM video, after the dust has settled.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Wow sucks to see a dealer pull something like this. Part of the reason that I like doing my own services is that I know what I do when replacing everything, checklist it, etc. Kinda like dealing with the aftermarket CV axles and acceleration vibration on my rig I just picked up. Have this odd feeling that the group in Vegas that did the CV installation probably did not set the preload properly nor did they gap the c-clips properly so I now have to replace the hub flanges. Plus with the vibrations I am getting on the aftermarket CVs I am sure they are probably not long for this world and I will need to replace in the near future.
Anyways, reading this has confirmed that I really would like to put a scangauge in my truck to monitor all this stuff accurately. While I won't take much to a mechanic to do, steering rack is probably one of the more complicated that I would just pay someone to handle.
Anyways, reading this has confirmed that I really would like to put a scangauge in my truck to monitor all this stuff accurately. While I won't take much to a mechanic to do, steering rack is probably one of the more complicated that I would just pay someone to handle.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Worth putting new bearings in while you’re in there. They’re also easy on the pocket.
