Overheat....UPDATED...file claimed with TUSA. (1 Viewer)

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The block and components likely got hotter after shut down before the temps started to fall. I dont know at what temp the sealants, gaskets, orings, and other components become affected and start to accelerate breakdown but 260+ cannot be good for long term reliability. I would figure out a solution that protects you in the event of a component failure in the next 12 mo at min.
 
System is pressurized, so boiling point is higher than the 212 degree boiling point of straight water. 260 is hot, and definitely the big red warning to pull over. But you didn't hurt it.
 
I'd consider filing a complaint with Toyota corporate - not so much for the mistake but for the implausible cover up and fibbing.

I am doing that first thing Monday morning. It is incredibly obvious the dealer was trying to pull the wool over my eyes. I’ve corresponded with no fewer than 10 Land Cruiser mechanics who have all confirmed the same thing as everyone here: the thermostat excuse is BS and a cover up for their clear negligence.

I’ll be revisiting this with the manager of the dealership on Monday as well.
 
Glad the dealership is trying to make this right. Good thing that you appeared to have caught this in time. I'd think proper documentation is the right thing to do here, you've started with the dealership first. Definitely worth reaching out to corporate and logging a case.

Link below has contact numbers.

 
I am doing that first thing Monday morning. It is incredibly obvious the dealer was trying to pull the wool over my eyes. I’ve corresponded with no fewer than 10 Land Cruiser mechanics who have all confirmed the same thing as everyone here: the thermostat excuse is BS and a cover up for their clear negligence.

I’ll be revisiting this with the manager of the dealership on Monday as well.

Ditto on thermostat BS. That fluid is incompressible and there is no magic secret void for it to disappear into when a valve sticks.
So tired of lame excuses we hear from folks to excuse shoddy work.
Gee I just revoked the laws of physics and put 5 gallons of water in a gallon jug. 😡
 
Haven't posted anything since your trouble started with this.

That has to be the worst excuse I've ever heard a dealer try to use. It is a pressurized exchange system. It literally cannot "get trapped" on one side of the valve(thermostat) absolutely worst excuse they could have used.

They didn't put any coolant back in after the work they performed.
The only acceptable acknowledgment of your experience with them would be getting them to put their legitimate error in paper.

They are not trying to make right on their mistake, simply covering their ass with an illegitimate excuse.

I'm glad everything seems good after the fact, but that doesn't do you any favors long term.
 
File claimed with Toyota USA. At this point, I haven't let them know what, if any, compensation will be necessary. The rig is headed to LandCruiser Specialists tomorrow so that they can independently verify the compression numbers and obtain both transmission and oil samples for me. I explained to Toyota USA that I'm doing this because I can't trust the dealership at all since they are clearly in a CYA mode and not trustworthy IMO. Toyota USA was very apologetic and assured me they take claims like these very seriously.

I let them know that I've spoken with 10 different Toyota service foremen over the past 2 days and all have said the same thing: the thermostat won't lead to no coolant in the radiator or overflow. Along with their assertions, the unanimous consensus here in this thread and direct messages on this website and FB aligning perfectly with them, the evidence is overwhelming that the dealer is throwing shade.

BTW, the dealer said on Saturday that they can't locate the thermostat they removed from my rig. Total load of crap.
 
File claimed with Toyota USA. At this point, I haven't let them know what, if any, compensation will be necessary. The rig is headed to LandCruiser Specialists tomorrow so that they can independently verify the compression numbers and obtain both transmission and oil samples for me.

BTW, the dealer said on Saturday that they can't locate the thermostat they removed from my rig. Total load of crap.
I'd say they can start out by covering your fee for LCS to verify the compression #s.
Recommend the dealer look in the trash..where they left it.
 
BTW, the dealer said on Saturday that they can't locate the thermostat they removed from my rig. Total load of crap.

The bad thermostat is probably trapped somewhere else in the system.


Just ridiculous explanations from the dealership. I would have printed out a schematic of the LC coolant system, state what the liquid volume of the radiator is, and ask them to circle where they think that volume of liquid was trapped.
 
Thermostat is in the bottom of the bucket with your coolant.

That's EXACTLY what I think as well. In fact, when I asked for the thermostat and the service manager told me they couldn't find it, I said.....look for it next to the bucket of my coolant y'all forgot to put back in my truck.
 
Let me throw one more possible angle into this. Has it been mentioned that your engine could have gotten well over 260 degrees if that's what the temperature probe showed with no coolant in the system?

I'm certainly not an expert here, but I was under the impression that the factory temperature gauge in these is dependent upon the coolant for accurate readings? This being why a radiator failure is so dangerous in these rigs. You don't see the temperature go up until it's potentially too late.

I guess if there was still coolant in the block, and none of the coolant was circulating yet, then it could have potentially still been submerged?
 
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Let me throw one more possible angle into this. Has it been mentioned that your engine could have gotten well over 260 degrees if that's what the temperature probe showed with no coolant in the system?

I'm certainly not an expert here, but I was under the impression that the factory temperature gauge in these is dependent upon the coolant for accurate readings? This being why a radiator failure is so dangerous in these rigs. You don't see the temperature go up until it's potentially too late.

I guess if there was still coolant in the block, and none of the coolant was circulating yet, then it could have potentially still been submerged?

I'm definitely thinking the engine was well over 260. The dash needle literally "popped" from normal to the red zone. It didn't creep up, it jumped in a split second and pegged. No steam or anything else erupted from the engine. It's just a crazy scenario. Likely won't ever know how hot it really got and will likely never know what truly happened as the dealer is going to stonewall and never admit to their mistake. I figure that even under pressure, they'll likely just "pay to make it go away" and never admit what happened. I'll at least have some idea of how hot it got once LCS run their independent compression tests and get me samples of the oil and trans fluid to send to Blackstone. Could be a few weeks before I have a true handle on what, if any, potential damage occurred.
 
they sent a Tow truck. Definitely zero coolant. I am sooooooooo pissed at the dealer right now

Gary, move to phoenix and we can just do all your maintenance in my back yard :) with frequent brakes for games of stump and beers of course
 
Sorry for the all the trouble you have to deal with. Glad that your truck seems to be okay. And best of luck in getting a resolution from Toyota.
 
I'm glad you filed a complaint. I wouldn't trust that dealer, and any confidence they give you that there is no damage. Hopefully this is the case, but still.

I've always heard that some gauges are not linear; I am not familiar enough with Toyotas, but it could mean the temp may have gotten higher. Also, to add to what the other guy mentioned above; it is very common to have gauge malfunctions when air is in the system. This is extremely common on the 22r (mini truck) engines, as the air will usually get trapped where the thermostat housing is.
 

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