Overcoming 2LTE fuel cut limit

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Musafir said:
@GTSSportCoupe
Hello,
Were you able to find one?
Click to expand...

Yes I have one that I'll eventually be able to send. I work at a University and have been just swamped with start of term. That and my kids starting school etc. I'm sorry. Just keep bugging me. I'll send you a PM.
 
Any of these left?
 
Hello all,

I am posting in hopes that someone can walk me through sorting out the tuning on my 1997 LN108 Hilux.

Since importing I have followed all of the suggestions for longevity and sorted out a pyrometer, coolant, general maintenance, front mount intercooler, injectors, etc.

I have decided to upgrade my turbo and am going with a Holset he211w. I decided to go this route as it’s on the smaller side, with faster spooling, which I think will suit the Hilux well.

As I wait for parts to come to Calgary I am looking at what I need to do in order to get the fuel necessary to give me the boost necessary to lower my egt’s. On the stock ct20 I am maxing out at about 12psi. I’m hoping with the he211w to be somewhere in the 18psi range. Unfortunately converting to a larger 12mm manual pump is a bridge to far in terms of cost and mechanical ability for me right now!

I have read through all of the 2LTE threads and am still a bit confused. As of now my understanding is that I just need to carefully turn in the fuel screw?

If someone could walk me through the steps I need to take to get myself dialed in once the turbo is installed I would appreciate it!!

Cheers,

Phil
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Boost controller in front of the map sensor will work too, but it does give an abrupt pressure control (like a fuel cut defender would).

Adjust the spill valve for more fuel, not the fuel resistor. The spill valve tends to add more fuel across the whole power range; the fuel resistor is a smaller amount and seems to have more effect only in the lower rev range. It is day and night difference between the two.

Pop the cap off the spill valve, and mark where it's set. Release the lock nut and turn in for more fuel and out for less. Turn in just a bit at a time (maybe 1/4 turn). Don't turn in more than about 3/4 turn. At 1 full turn, the engine can go into run-away the first time it revs up. You can test this while parked, and be ready to turn the screw out - its the only way to stop it. Sounds scary, but if you're careful, it won't happen. Mine went into runaway and it wasn't too big a deal. You can tell when you're getting close if the revs hang a bit when you rev it.

But if you're hitting 18psi, it's possible your fuel (spill valve) has already been turned up?
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Hello, are you still making the bleed valves?
 
Also interested in a bleed valve still.
 
Hi Guys, I'm sorry, I don't have the time to put those kits together anymore, or even post much on mud. There are some other knowledgeable people on mud with regard to 2LTE, and also tons and tons of posts with about everything there is to learn about them.

I hope to get back into it at some point; but next few months are a write off due to work.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Hi Guys, I'm sorry, I don't have the time to put those kits together anymore, or even post much on mud. There are some other knowledgeable people on mud with regard to 2LTE, and also tons and tons of posts with about everything there is to learn about them.

I hope to get back into it at some point; but next few months are a write off due to work.
Click to expand...
That's forwriting back, after hours of reading on here, I think I'm ready to add some more boost, fuel and bleeder. Found one off ebay.
 
Hi Guys I have been thinking about making the electronic version that will self regulate in order to get the 4.0V max out of the boost sensor. This was GTSSportCoupe's idea and its an awesome one! Who would be interested?
 
PradoEric said:
Hi Guys I have been thinking about making the electronic version that will self regulate in order to get the 4.0V max out of the boost sensor. This was GTSSportCoupe's idea and its an awesome one! Who would be interested?
Click to expand...
Yes please! Expensive?
 
This is pretty much regarded as a voltage clamp. Not too much rocket science involved at all.

A much more reliable and simpler alternative is get a new map sensor that reads a higher PSI per volt, from memory a Subaru of some sort does the trick.
The existing sensor resolution reads 1 volt per 3 psi. So at 12 psi you are at or around the 4 volt mark.
You can get another sensor, that reads 1 volt per 5 psi. so at max 4 volt input to the ECU, you are running 20psi. I think they call it "3 bar map sensor"
This amount is TOO MUCH.
You will crack heads, blow gaskets, cook the s*** out of it unless you have supporting mods.
Minimum at least have a proper dump pipe and exhaust to pump the heat out.
 
Combat Wombat said:
This is pretty much regarded as a voltage clamp. Not too much rocket science involved at all.

A much more reliable and simpler alternative is get a new map sensor that reads a higher PSI per volt, from memory a Subaru of some sort does the trick.
The existing sensor resolution reads 1 volt per 3 psi. So at 12 psi you are at or around the 4 volt mark.
You can get another sensor, that reads 1 volt per 5 psi. so at max 4 volt input to the ECU, you are running 20psi. I think they call it "3 bar map sensor"
This amount is TOO MUCH.
You will crack heads, blow gaskets, cook the s*** out of it unless you have supporting mods.
Minimum at least have a proper dump pipe and exhaust to pump the heat out.
Click to expand...
Great IDEA! Let me get a few and test them on the bench, I'll let you guys know what I come up with
 
Combat Wombat said:
This is pretty much regarded as a voltage clamp. Not too much rocket science involved at all.

A much more reliable and simpler alternative is get a new map sensor that reads a higher PSI per volt, from memory a Subaru of some sort does the trick.
The existing sensor resolution reads 1 volt per 3 psi. So at 12 psi you are at or around the 4 volt mark.
You can get another sensor, that reads 1 volt per 5 psi. so at max 4 volt input to the ECU, you are running 20psi. I think they call it "3 bar map sensor"
This amount is TOO MUCH.
You will crack heads, blow gaskets, cook the s*** out of it unless you have supporting mods.
Minimum at least have a proper dump pipe and exhaust to pump the heat out.
Click to expand...

I found more air (boost) with no change in fuel makes for leaner AFR, and actually the motor is much happier. Mine runs cooler and more reliable at 20psi. Intercooled of course! Don't exceed about 12psi without intercooler! (maybe thats what you mean).

Anyhow, this would be great. Wish I had time for this sort of thing, but too busy with work/fam these days.
 
Hi everybody
I have a 2lte on hilux 1998 auto transmission. Change original turbo becouse it was crack internal with a new one (maxspeed) removed the egr and rebuilt the fuel pump. When i drive or parked when the rpm reach exactly at 2600 check engine lights on. The car loose all the power and the speed start to fall if i go uphill my speed will drop to 30 MPH. The code i get is 14. I added boost guage as is mentioned previously in the forum. The pressure i get is 10 psi parked in neutral and almost 14 when driving uphill. Also tried clockwise the spilevalve screw by 1/2 turn but still the same. Can anybody help me deal with this. I read this conversation from the start and see that you have experience on 2lte
 
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